I have been handloading for a couple years now. I play it safe with my reloading due to my limited experience. I was wondering if once fired Lake City brass/military brass becomes 223 when resized with a 223 full length resizing die. Does anyone run Lake City brass once processed in a 223 bolt gun? Thanks .
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Lake City 556 brass for 223
- Thread starter Jam9
- Start date
The only real difference between the two is the pressures they are loaded to and chamber dimensions.
Other than that most mil surp brass will be a little heavier and have less volume.
Here is a brief run down on the differences.
https://www.targetsportsusa.com/wha...-223-remington-and-556-nato-ammo-p-57583.aspx
Other than that most mil surp brass will be a little heavier and have less volume.
Here is a brief run down on the differences.
https://www.targetsportsusa.com/wha...-223-remington-and-556-nato-ammo-p-57583.aspx
I do, it works fine.
There is no difference between 556 and 223 when you are the one reloading. You have the responsibility to make sure bullets aren't jammed into lands, that shoulder bump is appropriate, that charge weights aren't overpressure, etc. Sure the 223 vs 556 chambers might have fatter/longer freebore but the end user still needs to load the ammo to suit their gun.
Perhaps a better question is: what chamber does your rifle have? A 5.56 chamber has a .059 freebore and a 223 chamber has a .025 freebore. If you are loading your own ammo, you decide on the jump based on the bullet, magazine length, what shoots best, and whatever you want to do.
As long as you are using 223 data you'll be fine. Most manuals will tell you that military brass has less case capacity. This isn't always the case. [ pun intended ]
I use LC brass for “lost brass” endeavors, and Lapua brass when I can recover spent casings. My load is almost the same, but I bump up a couple tenths of powder charge in Lake City because the LC brass has more capacity than the Lapua match brass. Accuracy is same velocity is very close. The LC brass takes some prep work to be consistent - I suspect I’m not saving anything if you include my prep time. This is in a bolt gun. My AR only sees LC brass.
It's pretty good brass, but can be a little beat up. Most I've bought was mostly SAW fired. I use a dillon FL die (SB), but have also used Lee FL w/o issues. I think your situation will depend on your chamber dim and die dim.
You'll need a way to deal with crimped primers. Hornady makes a hand cutter that works great, but slow. Dillon makes a bench tool that works OK, but much faster. There's press swagging options too, but I don't have any experience with them.
LC and dated FC is about all I load for AR's. If I were loading for a bolt 223, I'd probably want to get better brass. JMHO.
You'll need a way to deal with crimped primers. Hornady makes a hand cutter that works great, but slow. Dillon makes a bench tool that works OK, but much faster. There's press swagging options too, but I don't have any experience with them.
LC and dated FC is about all I load for AR's. If I were loading for a bolt 223, I'd probably want to get better brass. JMHO.
It’s a moot issue as you have complete control on how much you bump the headspace. Simply bump your brass .001 to .002 for bolt action, and .003 to .004 for semi auto BASED on your fireformed ejected brass on that particular firearm. Simple as that.
