Re: Lapping compound for fire lapping barrel?
HB,
Q1. Yes, but you are not pre-treating. You are lapping the entire bore. The effect is more pronounced at the throat, but if you feel a tight spot in the bore, it can be removed.
Q2. All grease based.
Q3. The slugs are for checking the size (tightness) of the bore. Not for application of the lapping compound.
Q4. Not with a tumbler. The steel plate method works, but it is very slow and tedious to do a bunch of bullets. You also should consider throwing out the brass used for the bullets, unless you keep them sorted by grit for use in more than one rifle.
Caveat #1: Don't do any lapping by hand or by fire lapping on any barrel you aren't willing to throw out if you screw it up. Tubb sells ammo and kits for those who wish to follow a tried and true method.
Caveat #2: The #200 grit is only for very screwed up barrels. In 95% of the barrels I've done, it is not needed. Best results will be obtained starting with the #400 or #800.
Caveat #3: If you do this by hand, you better have action and lug cleaning tools. Any way you do it, it's better to have the bore and action too clean than not clean enough.
Caveat #4: Make sure ALL copper and carbon are out of the barrel before starting, and between changing grits. A ten stroke pass with JB compound, then a liquid bore cleaner helps the cleaning.
Caveat #5: DO NOT fire a round down the barrel with lapping compound in the barrel. Nothing good will happen. You perform any lapping at your own risk, and my directions here do not make me liable.
HTH,
DocB