Gunsmithing Lathe size

S

shepherm

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Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 16, 2006
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West Oklahoma
#1
I have used a lathe which had a 14" swing and 36" centers. But can you get to big or to small of a lathe for working on the remington 700 actions? I am looking to buy one and don't know what the best size would be.
Thanks
 
#2
Re: Lathe size

I am in the same boat, and I am wanting to pick up a 12x30 on the minimum and a 15x40 on the upper end. I think you can get by with somewhat less if it has good spindle bore, and you can get by with more if you can get a headstock that is less than say 28"

DD
 
#3
Re: Lathe size

Take a look at the ACER 14x40. That is the one that I am running and it works great for most projects. Chuck size is another problem. I have several depending on what I am doing.
 
#4
Re: Lathe size

I am also having a hard time deciding if I should get a new import or an old US made one. Most people tell me to get an old US made one but I am worried about them because most have been used a lot and seem to have too much play.
 
#5
Re: Lathe size

I've been using the Grizzly 12x36 gunsmith lathe and it has worked just fine. I had thought about getting a used American but at the time wasn't sure what to look for as being in good shape. If money was of little concern I would have gotten a good domestic one but my budget only allowed the Grizzly. Haven't had any problems and I'm turning out accurate barrels. I think a lathe in that size range will work just fine. On some lathes the spindle hole might be too small. Make sure it is 1-1/4 or larger. If you want to true a 700 action you'll need at least a 6" 4 jaw chuck. I'm using an 8".
 
#6
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shepherm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am also having a hard time deciding if I should get a new import or an old US made one. Most people tell me to get an old US made one but I am worried about them because most have been used a lot and seem to have too much play. </div></div>

They are nice but have someone who know what to look for check it out for you. Cost of repairs may or may not be a deal breaker.
 
#7
Re: Lathe size

One advantage to a used lathe, if in good shape, is that most times you can get a fair amount of tooling with it.
IE.... 5C collet set up, 3 and 4 jaw chuck, tool post, etc.....
Most US lathes can be adjusted to take most of the backlash out, especially in the feed screw nuts,

Andy
 
#8
Re: Lathe size

Thanks guys this all helps. I have friend that has a jet 14" that he is going to sell but he sent to a guy to be cleaned up and painted. I told him he shouldn't have wasted the money and sold it to me like it was. I guess Ill see what he wants for it once the guy is done with it. Until then Ill just keep looking.
 
#9
Re: Lathe size

I don't know about the newer jets but I got a Jet 12 X 36 in 1981-2 (Cant remember the exact date). It still works great. Inch and a half spendle hole seems to take care of my needs.

I got a Jet 16" Mill/Drill at the same time. Between the two I can handle just about anything I've wanted to do.

I also have a small 6X18 Jet lathe that handles the little stuff.
 
#10
Re: Lathe size

I just sold my 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36.
It never has been as good as my brother's 2000 Jet 13x40.
I just ordered a Precision Matthews 12x36 with DRO.

The Precision Matthews 12x36, Grizzly 12x36 gunsmithing, and Harbor Freight 12x36 all have ~80% interchangeable parts.

Jet does not offer a 12x36, but has many 13x40 lathes that are bigger and more expensive.

All 4 of the above importers of Chinese lathes have a 10% chance of shipping a lemon, but all 4 have great customer support with parts and advise to overcome the Chinese quality.

What does it all mean?
For gunsmithing, the swing matters little. Mini lathes have enough for gunsmithing. Big swing is for vehicle wheels.
For gunsmithing, the distance between centers should be as long as your longest barrel. 40" would be best, but you may have to settle for 36".
For gunsmithing, the hole through spindle should be as big in diameter as your largest barrel. 2" would be best, but you may have to settle for 1.25".
For gunsmithing, the lowest spindle speed should be 25 r.p.m. for old men cutting coarse threads, but you may have to settle for 75 r.p.m.
For gunsmithing, 0.2 horse power is plenty for cutting threads and reaming chambers. For tapering a barrel or boring out a barrel vise, you may appriciate 3.0 horse power.
 
#11
Re: Lathe size

I'm looking at an old Atlas from the 50's on Saturday, not the Craftsman version a good one that was used by a tool and die maker. It comes "with all te tooling" and there are two tools boxes of machinist tools that are available too. I'm working with the tool and die makers son who is in his 60's, the machinist has been passed away for quite some time.

The fellow wasn't sure about the size of it but the hole through the spindle is 1.5" according to him. If I like it it will get added to my shop.
 
#12
Re: Lathe size

I have a 1938 Atlas that was converted to tapered roller bearings on the spindle.

It is a pain to change gears for thread pitch, it is under powered, and it is springy [a 350 pound 12x36 will not be stiff] and takes a long time.

But used slowly, it is accurate, and I have chambered a half dozen rifles with it that are accurate.

The hole through the spindle is small, and only takes slim sporting contours.

I modified a steady rest from a different lathe and got it to fit on the Atlas. Bull barrels must go in the steady rest.

Many things can be done with that lathe, it just takes more skill and time.

An Atlas like mine with change gears is worth ~$500.
A new Atlas with quick change gears is worth ~$900.
I can get a new Chinese 12x36 that weighs 1000 pounds delivered for $1900.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33274

At each step, always go to a sweeter wine, a faster computer, and a faster lathe.
 
#13
Re: Lathe size

When searching for an older American lathe. Keep an eye out for the "tool room lathes" They usually had real machinists not tractor mechanics operating them. Also they led a much easier life,doing small projects,one offs,prototypes etc. This compared to the typical production machine which may have been run fairly hard for a lot of years. There were some pretty good quality machines built in Taiwan, better than any of the current crop of Chinese stuff floating around.
 
#15
Re: Lathe size

Would you guys buy a Precision Rifle made in China ?

though not, i wouldn't waste money on a cheap far eastern lathe.
there are several good used lathes on ebay if you look.

there is probably a dozen Harrison M300's on ebay right now. Several Clausing / Colchesters too.

if you are seriouse about smithing you need a decent lathe.

you will get away with 20" between centres if you use a spider on the back end of the spindle.
Idealy 30" will suit 99.9% or the jobs you will do.
You do not need an overly big chuck. The rifle action jig (see Gretan tooling) is about the biggest thing you will hold.

Look for lathes that have come out of schools, or other learning institutes, they generaly have the paint rubbed away but are a lot less used than a production lathe from a metalworking company.

regards Pete
 
#17
Re: Lathe size

What do you guys think about this one?
13" southbend turret lathe set up and running in my gunsmith shop. Going out of business. Must sell. Will trade for work car/truck or cash/guns or will consider all trades. I need to move it soon to avoid paying more rent for the building. I was asking $1000 cash. Lots of tooling is included. big 3 jaw chuck and 4 jaw chuck, 2 quick change tool holders, cutters with inserts, jacobs drill morse taper holders, floating reamer holder, live center, to much to list. Runs on regular single phase 220 or 110 AC. Was 3 phase, but had it converted(motor replaced). Power feeds, cuts threads, forward and reverse, works great.
He said it looks like this one: Lathe
Here is a picture:
3m33p23obZZZZZZZZZ93bdfbf2705986c11c2.jpg
 
#18
Re: Lathe size

Clark, maybe the Clausings weren't, i never worked on one, but Colchester lathes where certainly better than the chineese stuff ive seen. and Clausing and Colchester are pretty much the same thing depending on which model we are talking about.
certainly the colchesters ive used ( I trained on a Colchester Student and Master, ( also on a Harrison M300 and a Denford) have been accurate, reliable gunsmith lathes, they do not compare to the Weiler Condor i have now, but for some one getting into smithing, certainly I'd advise against a cheap new chineese machine and favour a good used machine. Certainly you have to be carefull when choosing a used lathe, but reading up and asking quastions, knowing what to look for etc can mean you end up with a used lathe in excellent condition and a shed load of tooling.
I bought and sold on 4 other weilers just to get my hands on tooling, ive now got a super set of tooling to complement and a damn good lathe.

just a quick look on ebay shows a bunch of suitable machines. just be carefull that the spindle bore is big enough,

harrison

older harrison


regards Pete
 
#19
Re: Lathe size

Good post Pete,I definitely concur on the used lathes. I bought my Monarch EE from a machinist friend. It was the 9th one he had owned. He bought this one for his own use,scraped the ways,tightened,cleaned and painted it,installed a dro etc. He then found a much later EE that came from a govt.entity that was as new.He bought it, I bought his we were both really happy. Anyway guys keep looking it's a buyer's market but due diligence is the order of the day.
 
#20
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Lincoln</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Clark, ..but for some one getting into smithing, certainly I'd advise against a cheap new chineese machine and favour a good used machine. ..</div></div>

I wish I could agree.
I sure tried.
My Rockwell mill is American. I may have to replace it with the Chinese equivalent, maybe not.
I have been going to the machine shop closing auctions.
I have been going to college machine shop auctions.
I have been going to school district maintenance auctions.
I have been looking at Craig's list in town and out of town.
I have been looking at Ebay for lathes.
We bought one Clausing 8520 mill out of a gunshow, when a hydroplane builder died.

There are American brands that are now made in China, that are the same as some Chinese brands. The difference is not paint or testing. There is no difference. Sometimes the American brand literature shows up by mistake in the Chinese importer shipment, and must remove the material. But the American brand sells for over twice as much.

This is allot like Burris selling the same electronic sight as a Chinese brand, for over twice as much $.

The situation with American lathes made 50 years ago is like American cars made 50 years ago. The ones with lots of wear left in them are being chased by too many buyers. Buying into that is not a practical decision, but an aesthetic one.

I got a good 1938 Atlas lathe from the widow when a friend died.

What does it all mean?
Home gunsmiths may get lucky, and be there when the owner of a nice American machine dies, but most likely, given the reality of the marketplace, the practical option for amateur gunsmithing is a Chinese 12x36 or 13x40 lathe.

I don't want to pee on the parade of anyone who wants to try.
If you see old American iron for $2k with original paint, jump on it.
If you see old American iron for $2k with 5 layers of paint, walk away.
The two happiest days in the life of the owner of an old lathe with 5 layers of paint are the day he buys it and the day he sells it.

Type "how to buy a used lathe" in Google, and start reading.
I did that, and still got screwed.
I wanted to do gunsmithing, not work on an old worn out lathe, that was never designed or built as well as the new Chinese lathes.



 
#21
Re: Lathe size

+1 To that!

Honestly, I try to buy American when I can, I really do. But I'm not going to chase an old piece of American iron when I can buy a new piece of Chinese iron that is just as good of quality and not worn out for the same price.

If a US company could give me a nice small lathe that had all the convenience of some of these Chinese ones for a reasonable price, I would buy it. But they just aren't there.

**Flame Suit On**
 
#22
Re: Lathe size

If people would stop buying Chinese junk, which is what they produce, maybe then you could find a good NEW American lathe. Give me an old Monarch or Southbend any day over a cheap make machine produced by a country with questionable, at best, human rights,I.E. SLAVE LABOR. God Bless the U.S. of A.
From an AMERICAN MACHINIST
 
#23
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: strangebrew613</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If people would stop buying Chinese junk, which is what they produce, maybe then you could find a good NEW American lathe. Give me an old Monarch or Southbend any day over a cheap make machine produced by a country with questionable, at best, human rights,I.E. SLAVE LABOR. God Bless the U.S. of A.
From an AMERICAN MACHINIST </div></div>

i don't understand what you are saying. are you saying if people stopped buying chinese machines, all the sudden a us company is going to start making new lathes for close to the same price as the imports? if that is what you are saying, which is what it sounds like to me, i think you are wrong.

people are buying chinese machines so obviously there is a market for a lathe that the small shop or garage gunsmith can afford. if an american company could make a product in this country to compete, i would most certainly buy that. i am sure many others would also. people will not stop buying chinese junk until america can produce a product at a competitive price.
 
#24
Re: Lathe size

I am saying support AMERICAN industry that stays in America. Why buy an inferior product thats cheaper, to be replaced 5 times, when I can buy a good American made product that will last for generations. Personally, I have run machines made prior to the War of Northern Aggression, converted over to run on electric. Worked just fine, help the dimensions and tolerances it had to. I like running old manual American made machines. They last, and when properly cared for, last for years, just like a good old Winchester Rifle, or an old Remington. Put it this way, would you rather have a SKS, or an AR-15?
 
#25
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just sold my 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36.
It never has been as good as my brother's 2000 Jet 13x40.
I just ordered a Precision Matthews 12x36 with DRO. </div></div>


Clark, what was the problem with the Clausing? That is the model I have been considering.
 
#26
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: strangebrew613</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am saying support AMERICAN industry that stays in America. Why buy an inferior product thats cheaper, to be replaced 5 times, when I can buy a good American made product that will last for generations. Personally, I have run machines made prior to the War of Northern Aggression, converted over to run on electric. Worked just fine, help the dimensions and tolerances it had to. I like running old manual American made machines. They last, and when properly cared for, last for years, just like a good old Winchester Rifle, or an old Remington. Put it this way, would you rather have a SKS, or an AR-15? </div></div>

is buying a 50 year old american machine still supporting american industry? i looked for a couple years and bought and sold a few american lathes before i decided to get a new import. i flat out can't find a decent american lathe that is not worn out, has all the features i need and is still affordable. i am of the opinion that a new import is better than a worn out american piece of iron. my import has done everything i have asked of it. don't get me wrong, i would much rather support an american company but they have made it impossible for me to do so.

would i rather have a sks or an ar15? if i could only afford a sks and it would do everything i needed it to, well, i guess that decision is easy. if an ar15 was only a few dollars more, well then the ar would be the chosen one.

i highly doubt i'll wear out my chinese lathe 5 times in my lifetime. i tell you what, i'll post up here when i have worn out the first one.
 
#27
Re: Lathe size

I see both sides of this issue. I guess I will consider my self fortunate I bought my Monarch for $6000 three years ago. When I am long dead and gone it will still be a precision machine still worth a considerable sum to whom ever owns it. The last two Monarch double "E"s sold new went to American Airlines. I read they paid about 100K for them. That having been said I am sure there are craftsmen on this site who could take a pile of chinese crap and turn out amazingly good work.
I still ain't buying no stinking SKS's though.
 
#28
Re: Lathe size

I think i'm lucky,living in Germany / Europe, at least on the lathe issue,
there is an abundance of excellent lightly used machines available on the market right now, i wonder what it would cost to ship a lathe to the USA ??
I checked out a lot of lathes, new and chinees, old and european, got ripped off along the way only once, my own fault for not reading up. certainly if you are going to buy a used lathe or a new one, talk to other owners, get on the variouse machining forums, and this site is good for info:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/

do your home work.

I realy had to search to find the right conventional milling machine though, ended up traveling all the way to the UK to pick it up, its a swiss made Aciera F3, perfectsize for riflesmithing jobs and with more tooling than i will ever use,

Pete
 
#29
Re: Lathe size

Pete:
Wished I had the choices you have in Europe. I'd like to pick up a Weiler, but here they are far and few between. There is no way a new one in justifiable for the work you and I do day in day out. 88K will go a long way towards the Mori twin spindle next year.

Lets' see, If I where to build from the ground up, an HLVH scaled up to 15/50 here in the States, ya'll would have to fork out at least 50K and probably more. Christ, the spindle bearing set would cost 3500 alone!

alan
 
#30
Re: Lathe size

strangebrew, do you personally own a lathe? i am an machinist by trade and my first lathe was a South Bend, but if i buy one now, it would have to be a Jet or Grizzly.

if we want to compete we better step up and make a lathe for a price that will compete. the shipping cost is stacked in our favor. i would love an entry level lathe suitalbe for barrel work from an American company, but i can't afford one. that is what it boils down to.
 
#31
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Lincoln</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think i'm lucky,living in Germany / Europe, at least on the lathe issue,
there is an abundance of excellent lightly used machines available on the market right now, i wonder what it would cost to ship a lathe to the USA ??
</div></div>

It depends on who you know.
A new 1200 pound Chinese lathe can be manufactured and delivered to my Seattle door in via Pennsylvania for $2000.

A used 1200 pound lathe on Ebay can cost more than $2000 just for shipping and crating to get it from the American rust belt to my Seattle door.

The difference is wholesale shipping vs retail shipping.
When you buy bullets from Midway, they charge you retail shipping, while Midway is charged wholesale shipping by UPS. That where they make their profit, and that is why they do not us the post office.

Likewise with lathes, if you pay $1 or $2/ pound + $200 crating to ship a lathe across the USA, you are paying retail.

If you pay $0.25 or $0.50/ pound to ship across the USA, you are paying wholesale.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nitehawk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just sold my 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36.
It never has been as good as my brother's 2000 Jet 13x40.
I just ordered a Precision Matthews 12x36 with DRO. </div></div>


Clark, what was the problem with the Clausing? That is the model I have been considering. </div></div>

Problems:
1) Poor design of the linkage to the Furnas on/0ff/reverse switch is not easily replaced or modified.
2) Poor design of the hydraulic linkage to the variable speed belt drive is not easily replaced or modified.
3) Poor design of the clutch and break is not easily replaceable, but can be defeated, and the lathe can be used without them.
4) Oil observation window in headstock is plastic, and cannot be scraped off smoothly after being painted over.
5) Ram in the tailstock, when worn, inaccurate, and sloppy, cannot be easily rebuilt. Sleeving the tailstock is like boring out an engine block.
6) L00 taper chuck back plate attachment is expensive.
7) #5 1/2 Morse taper headstock requires expensive adapter to use standard tooling.
8)440VAC 3 phase motor requires some effort to run on 220VAC single phase power in residential shop. Starting torque is not great with phase-a-matic converter.
8) Acme thread cross feed and compound adjustment are prohibitively expensive to replace.
making lathe cross feed shaft
Read all six pages of that thread, and you will get some perspective on how much trouble an old lathe can be.


What does it all mean?
1) A Chinese lathe can be built and shipped around the world cheaper than a lathe can be shipped via Ebay.
2) American lathes may be worn out or poorly designed. Parts are expensive.

 
#32
Re: Lathe size

Alan, good used weilers start around 3000€ private and go up to 16000€ if buying from a machine dealer, middle of the road is about the right level, I paid 9500€ for my Weiler Condor VS II from a fair to deal with dealer who specialises in good used machines. I then added a 3 axis DRO. about 6 months later i found a newer machine, in not as good order (by not as good order i mean not as pretty, but mechanicaly sound with a DRO fitted) situated localy in a mechanical repair place that was closing, I tipped of a mate who got it for 500€ that was the sale of the century as lathes go, the machine as is was worth 8000€.he sold it on for a good profit margin (4800€)to a dealer, and no doubt its now for sale cleaned and with new paint(and no other work)for over 12000€
When i was with the military we had a small but handy Denford lathe issued and fitted in our Machinery Trucks (MashyWagon)the lathe had a milling head attachment and was a great all round gunsmith lathe, most of them got screwed by the heavey handed mechanics turning far too big pieces at far to high feed rates.
In barracks one would usualy find a Colchester or Harrison.
The shop i started moonlighting for whilst still serving had a small well equipped Leinen that had come from a training and R&D workshop at a local paper mill. great lathe, but too small for anything but short and relatively thin barrels, I bought the Leinen when the shop closed (the owner got devorced and everything went to ratshit), sold it and bought a Colchester Bantam 2000 that i carted all the way from the UK in a small trailer. It served its purpose but going full time meant a better machine, I sold the colchester on for more than i paid for it and have been weilering away ever since, I'm very happy with the weiler ive ended up with, its and excellent machine.

It currently costs about 200 to 400€ to send a lathe anywhere in Germany, depends on weight and size and how many Europallets it covers.
I figure for hoby smithing probably one of the chink machines will do, but for professional day in day out, i'd want something a bit more western.

I wonder what the other full time guys are using for lathes,??
Pete
 
#33
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Nitehawk</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just sold my 1967 Clausing 5914 12x36.
It never has been as good as my brother's 2000 Jet 13x40.
I just ordered a Precision Matthews 12x36 with DRO. </div></div>


Clark, what was the problem with the Clausing? That is the model I have been considering. </div></div>

Problems:
1) Poor design of the linkage to the Furnas on/0ff/reverse switch is not easily replaced or modified.
2) Poor design of the hydraulic linkage to the variable speed belt drive is not easily replaced or modified.
3) Poor design of the clutch and break is not easily replaceable, but can be defeated, and the lathe can be used without them.
4) Oil observation window in headstock is plastic, and cannot be scraped off smoothly after being painted over.
5) Ram in the tailstock, when worn, inaccurate, and sloppy, cannot be easily rebuilt. Sleeving the tailstock is like boring out an engine block.
6) L00 taper chuck back plate attachment is expensive.
7) #5 1/2 Morse taper headstock requires expensive adapter to use standard tooling.
8)440VAC 3 phase motor requires some effort to run on 220VAC single phase power in residential shop. Starting torque is not great with phase-a-matic converter.
8) Acme thread cross feed and compound adjustment are prohibitively expensive to replace.
making lathe cross feed shaft
Read all six pages of that thread, and you will get some perspective on how much trouble an old lathe can be.


What does it all mean?
1) A Chinese lathe can be built and shipped around the world cheaper than a lathe can be shipped via Ebay.
2) American lathes may be worn out or poorly designed. Parts are expensive. [/quote]

WOW! Thanks Clark. I appreciate your response. I guess the hunt will continue.
 
#34
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1sikpupi</div><div class="ubbcode-body">strangebrew, do you personally own a lathe? i am an machinist by trade and my first lathe was a South Bend, but if i buy one now, it would have to be a Jet or Grizzly.

if we want to compete we better step up and make a lathe for a price that will compete. the shipping cost is stacked in our favor. i would love an entry level lathe suitalbe for barrel work from an American company, but i can't afford one. that is what it boils down to. </div></div>

Yes I do as a matter of fact. Old Monarch, got for a song from a friend that runs a machine shop and went CNC. The machine is a late 40's model, holding tolerences fine. The prob I see with Chinese lathes is they will be scrap metal in 15 to 20 years, that is with heavy industrial usage. One man shop, well, ya buy cheap, ya got cheap.
 
#36
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shepherm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you guys think about this one?
13" southbend turret lathe set up and running in my gunsmith shop. Going out of business. Must sell. Will trade for work car/truck or cash/guns or will consider all trades. I need to move it soon to avoid paying more rent for the building. I was asking $1000 cash. Lots of tooling is included. big 3 jaw chuck and 4 jaw chuck, 2 quick change tool holders, cutters with inserts, jacobs drill morse taper holders, floating reamer holder, live center, to much to list. Runs on regular single phase 220 or 110 AC. Was 3 phase, but had it converted(motor replaced). Power feeds, cuts threads, forward and reverse, works great.
He said it looks like this one: Lathe
Here is a picture:
3m33p23obZZZZZZZZZ93bdfbf2705986c11c2.jpg
</div></div>

I have one of those barely used in my shop. If the ways are in good shape, it will do anything and is very rigid. Chunk the turret tool holder clean it up a bit and start to work. Those are belt driven and have adjustable bearing to keep the runout in spec. The same lathe but in a 10" version is better for smith work as the spindle length is very short.

The lathe you are looking at more than likely has a 1.5" spindle bore which is good and IMO the minimum for smith work.

I really lucked out finding my setup. It still has the cosmoline on the ways when I got it. Look to move about 1500lbs. when you go get it. Get some raod sign post channel and set the lathe up on it. Bolt it to the sign channel. That way you can roll it around on pipes. The channel will roll on the pipes. I can post a pic if you need one.
 
#37
Re: Lathe size

So its been a super long (ok just 3 years) wait, but a friend told me that he had one of his lathes ready to sell to me!! I think its a 14x40 or 13x40 Jet metal lathe. I know its not the best but it is a good price and I can start doing some of the projects I have been collecting! So if everything goes as planned I will have it next weekend!!
 
#38
Re: Lathe size

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: shepherm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am also having a hard time deciding if I should get a new import or an old US made one. Most people tell me to get an old US made one but I am worried about them because most have been used a lot and seem to have too much play. </div></div>
I looked for months at lathes. Old US, Import, finally came down to this. An old Southbend with shipping, wore out would cost the same as a new chinese lathe at my door. I went with the latter, works fine so far.
 
#40
Re: Lathe size

There's a guy here with an Atlas, and he wants a grand for it. Pickings are slim, let me tell you.

The local college traded out their old lathes, and installed new ones from Thomas Skinner. TS had the old ones sold, before they even removed them. It's a racket, I tell ya.
 
#41
Re: Lathe size

I got an atlas 12" for $500 about 4 months ago. I sold it because the spindle was only .75 through and couldn't do much with guns. I have seen a few good deals but a lot of those lathes turn out to be junk.
 
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