Lee Turret Newb Setup

[16denarius]

So I'm planning to get in as "cheap" as I can. New "precision" 308 shooter, mainly just looking to reliably save on the cost of putting more rounds down range for the next year or more, plus the tinkering aspect of reloading is right up my alley. I feel like I'm set on getting a turret, so that I can set up for a caliber without swapping dies all the time (I'd certainly be open to a single stage, if there were a way to fast swap them?) So far the best I've come up with is an all-Lee setup. Would love to hear any thoughts or improvements!

Case Prep:
Harbor Freight dual rock tumbler
2lbs .047x.255 SS media
Hand tools for Trim/deburr/chamfur
~$20 caliper

Loading:
Lee Classic Turret 90064
Lee 4 pc "Ultimate" die set LP90695
Lee Safety Primer 90997

Powder:
Lee Perfect Measure 90058 (will likely make a stand to hover over a funnel)
~$20 scale

Future Misc:
Hornady cam bullet puller
RCBS Trim-mate
Extra turret & 9mm die set


Total cost for all this and misc goodies like loading trays is right around $350.

 

[Steel head]

I still use my lee classic turret.
Haven’t found a need to change yet.

If your looking for a cheap effective die set I’d recommend a lee collet, Redding body die and Forster micrometer bullet seating dies.

Lee collet dies are the only Lee dies I like.

 

[16denarius]

I still use my lee classic turret.
Haven’t found a need to change yet.

If your looking for a cheap effective die set I’d recommend a lee collet, Redding body die and Forster micrometer bullet seating dies.

Lee collet dies are the only Lee dies I like.

Hmm, will look into the individual dies more. What about Lee's factory crimp?

 

[Steel head]

Hmm, will look into the individual dies more. What about Lee's factory crimp?

Definitely not needed.

 

[bodywerks]

Agree with Steel. I just had Lee collet dies custom made for my 6.5PRC and 28 Nosler. They come with Lee bullet seater dies by default. For giggles, I loaded a few rounds with that seater and tested runout. Best was .004, worst almost .008. In the precision reloading world that's JUNK. Went back to my redding micrometer seater and the worst was .004. I'm one that is never satisfied, so I now use Wilson seater dies.
I can appreciate you wanting to 'save money', but rolling your own rarely amounts to that if you really want 'precision'.
A single kernel of powder can affect a bullet's speed by approx 2fps. for a popular 308 powder(Varget), there are around 5 kernels per tenth of a grain. That "Perfect" powder measure is far from perfect, and will throw +/- up to .2 grains. That's potentially a 40fps spread between any two given rounds. If you're looking to go cheap on a scale to verify charges, avoid electronic scales in your ~$20 price range. They are ALL junk. Lowest I would recommend is something like the RCBS rangemaster, or lyman equivalent. Even those can be off by +/- .1 grains though. Other than that, get a beam scale.
I run a lee Turret press as well, but it's the ONLY item in my reloading room that hasn't been upgraded. However, I do contribute some of my excessive runout with a match bullet seater die to be attributed to the slop in the turret plate itself - which is why I went to the wilson die, which uses an arbor press.
I understand that you are 'new' to precision and looking to go 'cheap'. But just a heads up, I started off with mostly what you are listing, then I went to a rcbs rangemaster and hand trickler, then I upgraded to redding bushing dies, then I bought a bullet runout gauge, neck trimmer, different types of case cleaning tools, etc. Then I hated spending 3 hours loading 100 rounds and got a chargemaster 1500. Then I started having noticeable vertical spreads at distance so I bought a magnetospeed chrono. Noticed ES in the 20's, even 30's. Thought it was due to bullet runout(this was before I went to wilson seaters) so I bought a hornady runout 'fixer". Turned out not to be the main issue and I determined I really didn't know how accurate my charge weights were, and finally invested in a scale/auto powder thrower system that is accurate to pretty much a kernel of powder, but cost almost a grand.
So now, just 7 years into reloading, I probably have invested/spent/wasted(it's all perspective) more money in reloading equipment, poweder, and components than I would have spent in match ammo for the number of rounds I have fired to date, for all my rifles combined.
If you read all this rambling, I have a rangemaster I will sell you for $50, shipped, to help you get started.

 

[16denarius]

Thanks for the reply, that sounds about like the rabbit hole I'm expecting this to become someday, haha. I'm definitely not expecting "perfect" from the powder crank, but it's supposed to be a lot better than the auto-dumps, correct? I'm hoping this initial setup will always work well for pistol loads, at least.

If I'm reading you guys right, it sounds like I should go for a universal (non body-sizing) primer punch, a better body die, Lee's collet, a much better setup for seating, and no crimp at all? Do you guys always use the body die, or keep running fire-formed through the collet?

PM'ing you about the rangemaster, bodywerks.

 

[Steel head]

Thanks for the reply, that sounds about like the rabbit hole I'm expecting this to become someday, haha. I'm definitely not expecting "perfect" from the powder crank, but it's supposed to be a lot better than the auto-dumps, correct? I'm hoping this initial setup will always work well for pistol loads, at least.

If I'm reading you guys right, it sounds like I should go for a universal (non body-sizing) primer punch, a better body die, Lee's collet, a much better setup for seating, and no crimp at all? Do you guys always use the body die, or keep running fire-formed through the collet?

PM'ing you about the rangemaster, bodywerks.

For pistol I really like the Hornandy powder measure as most pistol powders and some rifle go through them well and accurately.

You can actually run a powder activated kit on the Lee turret and that really speeds things up.

 

[bodywerks]

I neck size only until it's hard to lock the bolt into battery, then I FL size. Definitely no crimp needed. I don't even use one for the ammo I load for my AR. your powder thrower will be perfect for pistol after you decide to 'upgrade'.

 

[16denarius]

You guys nearly doubled my starter budget, but after doing some more reading, I went ahead and ordered the Forster Micro seater, Redding type S FB, and a Lee universal decapper to go with the rest. Big thanks for the comments. I'm guessing at some point, I'll get a decent O-frame for dedicated seating.