Hunting & Fishing Light weight elk rifle
- Thread starter Rlovato
- Start date
I see tons of CA at the range. The 6.5 PRC is new factory support. For a factory carbon fiber barrel gun they are nice. I hate their cylinder type breaks. In my head makes no sense and is annoying to me let alone go prone and you got dust flying everywhere. I prefer their normal 3-9 o’clock breaks.
Good call didnt even think of it at the moment. I have read alot about the cartridge seem to suit the needs well just wondering if anyone has experience with it.
And as far as the gun dont know if its worth the cost i am wondering if i could have my local shop build me a rifle for a similar price
Well off the top of my head I think I saw a CA 6.5 PRC for $2700 or maybe $2799 and I am not sure if that was a CF barrel.
A HS precision is $3600-$3700 or so and may weigh more but is a total custom in house production rifle.
You could look into say a 700 action, Lilja (or insert brand) taper barrel, trigger,break, gunsmithing/truing and pick a light weight stock that fits your wife. Probably be around $2700 I am just way guessing from parts I would install because I did just this.
However my rifle is better than the CA
A HS precision is $3600-$3700 or so and may weigh more but is a total custom in house production rifle.
You could look into say a 700 action, Lilja (or insert brand) taper barrel, trigger,break, gunsmithing/truing and pick a light weight stock that fits your wife. Probably be around $2700 I am just way guessing from parts I would install because I did just this.
However my rifle is better than the CA
Barret Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor shooting Federal 130 Berger bullets, or Hornady 143 ELD-X for the win, place and tikka super lite in 7-08 shooting 120 Ballistic Tips for the show.
Take all the money you save on the rifle and buy ammo and shoot the first 500 just to get to know the rifle.
Take all the money you save on the rifle and buy ammo and shoot the first 500 just to get to know the rifle.
I do reload for the creed her rifle runs around 2790 but wants a lighter rifle. Really i just think she wants another gun so ill use excuse to buy new toys!
The Proof barrels on my guns are NOT lighter than some of the steel barrels Christiansen Arms is using. The difference is that they easier to practice or make a more versatile gun with and less prone to walking than plan steel barrels of similar weight.
Who chambers and finishes the muzzle for $200? How much for Devcon or to have it Bedded?
Typically many are around $300-$350 and if you want muzzle threaded +$150ish.. add a brake +100 (kinda nice for an ultra light rifle) $600ish vrs $200 is a big budget gap.
If we are honest all the small stuff really adds up the $ is my point.. I've done this a number of times and always walk away going --- omg, did I really spend that much?
Granted I like what I end up, but man.. it is never on the cheap with the inclusive math.
If your wife already has a 6.5CM I wouldn't buy another rifle chambered in 6.5PRC, it's just too similar and it won't kill an elk any faster. Try looking at the 7-08 or .308, they are both great cartridges that will get the job done out to very reasonable ranges. If that's still not enough, check out the .280AI, it is a very attractive cartridge.
yeah go 300win or wsm, something meaningfully different. with a brake it's no big deal and you don't feel the recoil while hunting anyways. and sounds like you reload, but the 300's have a really abundant ammo varieties and availability.
Sure match firearms in savanna Tn . It will be a target crown not threaded. With a 28 inch barrel I will be ok. I hate a muzzle brake on a hunting rifle. I will bed the barreled action and put gun together when I get it back from smith. Been elk hunting public land in Colorado for 12 years. 7saum is my favorite elk round hands down. Hope this helps
The Swedes have been slaying moose with the 6.5 for over a hundred years, and moose are much larger than elk.
Use the $1850 on ammo, and the confidence will follow. There is nothing a 7mm or 30 Cal will add to the fight that makes any difference on the receiving end of the bullet.
If I could afford it right now, I’d go with a Proof Switch rifle. Can probably build it for cheaper, but it still seems like a slick little lightweight hunting rifle.
I’m planning this same build except I’m going with a straight 7mm Rem Mag and go with a 24-26” barrel length and a brake. Should be a pretty lightweight hunting rifle.
The proof switch is badass but definitely not in the budget right now
No minds are made up on caliber so options are appreciated.
Ultimate goal is a light weight mid recoil rifle! this would be her first time hunting and last think i want to do is put her off by lugging around a heavy rifle
No minds are made up on caliber so options are appreciated.
Ultimate goal is a light weight mid recoil rifle! this would be her first time hunting and last think i want to do is put her off by lugging around a heavy rifle
A short Proof barrel is the way to go if you're looking for a light rifle to hump around the woods. 7mm-08 or 308 hold up well (velocity wise) to chopping the barrel down, without the shoulder punch of the magnums. Personally like the 300wm for all North American big game - but the previously mentioned calibers will surely get the job done.
I gave my grandson a Savage Light Weight Hunter chambered in a 260 when he was 12. He got to hunt elk this year and killed a nice 6x6 (actually it was 7x6) at 408 yds.
140 berger. Bullet was in the skin on the off side.
The Savage short action magazines, 3" can make good use of the the long bullets in a 260 (if you handload).
I would recommend a Cooper 92 in 280 ai. Super diverse, and very light weight while maintaining a good Ridgid stock.
I'd go bigger than 6.5 PRC for elk sized game. My elk rifle is a 28 Nosler in a christensen ridgeline. Recoil is not bad at all. Also have a 300WSM being built. For anything smaller I have a 18" 6.5 creedmoor and some shorter 308s for in the woods etc.
People are split in this thread (creedmore is plenty for elk vs. you need something massive like 300 win mag).
The answer is pretty simple. What kind of shooter/hunter is your wife?
If she will directly strike the vitals there is literally just ONE INCH of elk between the outside of its body and the vital organs. Almost ANY bullet will suffice and 6.5 Creedmore will be fantastic. I’ve dropped several in their tracks with a .223 from an SBR.
If she will take shots that rely on passing through the shoulder to reach the vitals, then yes, some of the magnums are good choices.
The answer is pretty simple. What kind of shooter/hunter is your wife?
If she will directly strike the vitals there is literally just ONE INCH of elk between the outside of its body and the vital organs. Almost ANY bullet will suffice and 6.5 Creedmore will be fantastic. I’ve dropped several in their tracks with a .223 from an SBR.
If she will take shots that rely on passing through the shoulder to reach the vitals, then yes, some of the magnums are good choices.
Headshots not required. Perhaps you missed my factual (measured) statement about only needing to pierce 1 inch before you’re in the vitals. Dropped several this way. The furthest one made it was 16 yards.
I’ve done this (and/or watched a buddy) with:
40 grain vmax
50 grain vmax
60 grain vmax
77 grain TMK
62 grain Gold Dot
All worked excellently. All were from SBRs except a couple at 16”
This is not recommended for the hunting skill or hunting style of most hunters.
The point is, if .233 works well, then 6.5 Creedmoor is WAY WAY WAY beyond acceptable for shooters who make direct vital shots. As previously stated, if you’re counting on a shoulder shot something else may be appropriate.
I’ve done this (and/or watched a buddy) with:
40 grain vmax
50 grain vmax
60 grain vmax
77 grain TMK
62 grain Gold Dot
All worked excellently. All were from SBRs except a couple at 16”
This is not recommended for the hunting skill or hunting style of most hunters.
The point is, if .233 works well, then 6.5 Creedmoor is WAY WAY WAY beyond acceptable for shooters who make direct vital shots. As previously stated, if you’re counting on a shoulder shot something else may be appropriate.
You do you but I don’t think taking an elk with a .223 is ethical unless it’s head shots and I personally never would. I understand your point and also understand shot placement trumps energy/displacement every time. That said, just because something can be done doesn’t mean it should be done.
I hunt with a very similar rifle. Defiance Hunter 7 SAUM, EH-1 carbon fill stock, Bartlein 3B at 26”. Topped with S&B 4-16. Weighs just under 9lbs with DBM. 168 gr Berger hybrids at 3150 fps. Hunted Canadian moose, red stag and blackbuck in Argentina, and will be headed to South Africa for sable in July and Scotland for roe deer in March 2020. It shoots great. 1/2” group at 300 yards. Built by Marc Soulie. Rounds loaded by Andrew McCourt. Would definitely build another one.
CWJ
And what state are you hunting these elk in with a 223/5.56 SBRs? What is the minimum legal ft/lbs of energy in that state to take said game?
Idaho. No specified ft/lbs. Idaho only specifies that it must be a center fire cartridge.
I have a fellow that hunts with us (works with my son). He picked up a
C A in a 7mm and has had some problems with it and their CS!
I asked my son about it and said he was really upset with them. He says it won't group. Just saying
BTW he has rifles built for him all the time and this is the first one he's had problems with! Wish I had more details but CS is what he's dealing with for over a year.
Look at the .280AI. I don't know if there is a big enough difference between the 6.5CM and 6.5PRC to make it worth while. Maybe 200fps with the same bullet. But you can jump up to a 7mm 160-180 at near the same speeds of a 6.5PRC and greatly enhance your retained downrange energy on game.
I personally shoot an 8.5 lb with nightforce 6.5 prc. Love the rifle and shoots factory ammo phenomenally.
Sorry for the long wait guys we ended up getting the ca mesa two weeks ago we have shot it twice since then and we have had nothing but headaches.
First we got a scope that would not hold zero store we got to from was happy to replace. The other scope they had was a display model all looked okay at first glance zero stop seemed solid. This scope zeroed at 100 yards only leaves me only 3mil left in travel on a 20 moa base.
Other issue we got is the bolt is some what tight when chambering a round and we have got several pieces of spent brass stuck that needed to be tapped out...
First we got a scope that would not hold zero store we got to from was happy to replace. The other scope they had was a display model all looked okay at first glance zero stop seemed solid. This scope zeroed at 100 yards only leaves me only 3mil left in travel on a 20 moa base.
Other issue we got is the bolt is some what tight when chambering a round and we have got several pieces of spent brass stuck that needed to be tapped out...
That’s a bummer, might be a bad chamber job. Hopefully you can get it figured out and get her shooting comfortably.
That's what I'm thinking hopefully nothing major though gun shoots great otherwise
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