Gunsmithing Lighter fluid?
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Re: Lighter fluid?
There are plenty of quality cleaning products on the market...I don't play games with other chemicals, as I am not a chemist and I don't pretend to know what types of interactions they can present.
As far as the windex, I'll use it in my Mosin/Nagant rifles after firing corrosive ammo, but I always follow with a couple of patches and a quality oil.
There are plenty of quality cleaning products on the market...I don't play games with other chemicals, as I am not a chemist and I don't pretend to know what types of interactions they can present.
As far as the windex, I'll use it in my Mosin/Nagant rifles after firing corrosive ammo, but I always follow with a couple of patches and a quality oil.
Re: Lighter fluid?
Lighter fluid is just Naptha...a most volatile and flammable petroleum product...in fact, from what I read, the Coleman lantern fuel is naptha. It helps clean crap out...but not much real cleaning. The idea for doing it after regular cleaning, is that it will evaporate, leaving a mostly dry bore. (So as not to affect the cold bore shot.) Windex is a water based cleaner/detergent mix that has ammonia in it. Entirely different animals. If you have a stainless barrel...forgo the above until you have accuracy drop off. If a non-stainless chrome-moly bore that is prone to rust, try running a Hoppe's Number 9 damp patch down the bore after a range session. It evaporates, mostly, but does leave a tiny bit of oil to prevent rusting. Usually not enough to affect the cold bore shot. Test by firing to make sure. JMHO
Lighter fluid is just Naptha...a most volatile and flammable petroleum product...in fact, from what I read, the Coleman lantern fuel is naptha. It helps clean crap out...but not much real cleaning. The idea for doing it after regular cleaning, is that it will evaporate, leaving a mostly dry bore. (So as not to affect the cold bore shot.) Windex is a water based cleaner/detergent mix that has ammonia in it. Entirely different animals. If you have a stainless barrel...forgo the above until you have accuracy drop off. If a non-stainless chrome-moly bore that is prone to rust, try running a Hoppe's Number 9 damp patch down the bore after a range session. It evaporates, mostly, but does leave a tiny bit of oil to prevent rusting. Usually not enough to affect the cold bore shot. Test by firing to make sure. JMHO
Re: Lighter fluid?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lighter fluid is just Naptha...a most volatile and flammable petroleum product...in fact, from what I read, the Coleman lantern fuel is naptha. It helps clean crap out...but not much real cleaning. The idea for doing it after regular cleaning, is that it will evaporate, leaving a mostly dry bore. (So as not to affect the cold bore shot.) Windex is a water based cleaner/detergent mix that has ammonia in it. Entirely different animals. If you have a stainless barrel...forgo the above until you have accuracy drop off. If a non-stainless chrome-moly bore that is prone to rust, try running a Hoppe's Number 9 damp patch down the bore after a range session. It evaporates, mostly, but does leave a tiny bit of oil to prevent rusting. Usually not enough to affect the cold bore shot. Test by firing to make sure. JMHO </div></div>
I have a SS barrel so I should not do either one? I usually just run a dry bore snake down last to clear out any left over solvents.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lighter fluid is just Naptha...a most volatile and flammable petroleum product...in fact, from what I read, the Coleman lantern fuel is naptha. It helps clean crap out...but not much real cleaning. The idea for doing it after regular cleaning, is that it will evaporate, leaving a mostly dry bore. (So as not to affect the cold bore shot.) Windex is a water based cleaner/detergent mix that has ammonia in it. Entirely different animals. If you have a stainless barrel...forgo the above until you have accuracy drop off. If a non-stainless chrome-moly bore that is prone to rust, try running a Hoppe's Number 9 damp patch down the bore after a range session. It evaporates, mostly, but does leave a tiny bit of oil to prevent rusting. Usually not enough to affect the cold bore shot. Test by firing to make sure. JMHO </div></div>
I have a SS barrel so I should not do either one? I usually just run a dry bore snake down last to clear out any left over solvents.
Re: Lighter fluid?
Windex is for blackpowder shooters.
Lighter fluid is for Zippos and flushing crud out of your trigger mechanism.
I have no idea what it's supposed to do for your barrel.
Paul
Windex is for blackpowder shooters.
Lighter fluid is for Zippos and flushing crud out of your trigger mechanism.
I have no idea what it's supposed to do for your barrel.
Paul
Re: Lighter fluid?
Been fooling with muzzleloaders for about 30 years now and have spent a small fortune on about all the trial and error there is to try.
Here's what I've come up with for our inlines...
Treat the bore with Ultra Bore Coat, you won't be sorry.
To clean, use Rusty Duck Black Off patches to get all the fouling out. Push one wet patch through, then a tight dry patch, repeat, until wet/dry patches come out clean...takes about three wet/dry patches to come clean.
Then wet 3 or 4 tight fitting patches with WEAREVER non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Push these through in the same wet/dry patch routine. After it airs out dry and residue free, oil the bore with gun oil. Takes longer to type this than to clean one. We use this system on a 50 cal Ruger 77/50 and a 50 cal Knight KP1.
(Should add too, that we shoot Goex FFg, not any of that fancy "clean burning" fake stuff.....)
The Ultra Bore Coat is the key.....
Been fooling with muzzleloaders for about 30 years now and have spent a small fortune on about all the trial and error there is to try.
Here's what I've come up with for our inlines...
Treat the bore with Ultra Bore Coat, you won't be sorry.
To clean, use Rusty Duck Black Off patches to get all the fouling out. Push one wet patch through, then a tight dry patch, repeat, until wet/dry patches come out clean...takes about three wet/dry patches to come clean.
Then wet 3 or 4 tight fitting patches with WEAREVER non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Push these through in the same wet/dry patch routine. After it airs out dry and residue free, oil the bore with gun oil. Takes longer to type this than to clean one. We use this system on a 50 cal Ruger 77/50 and a 50 cal Knight KP1.
(Should add too, that we shoot Goex FFg, not any of that fancy "clean burning" fake stuff.....)
The Ultra Bore Coat is the key.....
Re: Lighter fluid?
They are different beasts. The windex is water based and will dissolve polar things. Black powder and some corrosive primers will form some salts(which are polar), and the ammonia in the windex will oxidze copper fouling. Modern powders with modern primers get carbon fouling(nonpolar), and are best dissolved by nonpolar carbon based solvents(petroleum based). I have never used lighter fluid for this application, so I can not say with certainty one way or the other, but it is not completely out of reason, and shouldn't do any harm to your firearms(maybe polyurethane or other coatings, but not the metal)
They are different beasts. The windex is water based and will dissolve polar things. Black powder and some corrosive primers will form some salts(which are polar), and the ammonia in the windex will oxidze copper fouling. Modern powders with modern primers get carbon fouling(nonpolar), and are best dissolved by nonpolar carbon based solvents(petroleum based). I have never used lighter fluid for this application, so I can not say with certainty one way or the other, but it is not completely out of reason, and shouldn't do any harm to your firearms(maybe polyurethane or other coatings, but not the metal)
Re: Lighter fluid?
The other thing you can do with a CM bore is to just pop a dose of "WipeOut" in it, let it foam for a bit then wipe a patch through.
It leaves a rust inhibitor residue. With SS barrels avoid cleaning them until the accuracy tanks.
I avoid any serious cleaning until the accuracy tanks on my CM bores as well, they get no special treatment except everything is kept in a humidity controlled safe.
I have yet to rust/pit out a match grade bore. They usually get the throats burned out first.
The other thing you can do with a CM bore is to just pop a dose of "WipeOut" in it, let it foam for a bit then wipe a patch through.
It leaves a rust inhibitor residue. With SS barrels avoid cleaning them until the accuracy tanks.
I avoid any serious cleaning until the accuracy tanks on my CM bores as well, they get no special treatment except everything is kept in a humidity controlled safe.
I have yet to rust/pit out a match grade bore. They usually get the throats burned out first.
Re: Lighter fluid?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have yet to rust/pit out a match grade bore. They usually get the throats burned out first.</div></div>
+1 on that - I don't give 'em time to rust !
Paul
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have yet to rust/pit out a match grade bore. They usually get the throats burned out first.</div></div>
+1 on that - I don't give 'em time to rust !
Paul
Re: Lighter fluid?
I sure don't want to hijack this thread, but I just learned about cleaning triggers with lighter fluid recently. I've been using CLP. If lighter fluid is better, I'd like to know why and the proper way to use it, and exactly what to buy.
Thanks!
I sure don't want to hijack this thread, but I just learned about cleaning triggers with lighter fluid recently. I've been using CLP. If lighter fluid is better, I'd like to know why and the proper way to use it, and exactly what to buy.
Thanks!
Re: Lighter fluid?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FoxtrotBravo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sure don't want to hijack this thread, but I just learned about cleaning triggers with lighter fluid recently. I've been using CLP. If lighter fluid is better, I'd like to know why and the proper way to use it, and exactly what to buy.
Thanks! </div></div>
Regular ole lighter fluid, take the action out of the stock, give the trigger a liberal flushing of lighter fluid, let it dry and reassemble.
What it does is knocks all the crud and shit out of the trigger housing and mechanisms and leaves a "dry" lubricating like film.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FoxtrotBravo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I sure don't want to hijack this thread, but I just learned about cleaning triggers with lighter fluid recently. I've been using CLP. If lighter fluid is better, I'd like to know why and the proper way to use it, and exactly what to buy.
Thanks! </div></div>
Regular ole lighter fluid, take the action out of the stock, give the trigger a liberal flushing of lighter fluid, let it dry and reassemble.
What it does is knocks all the crud and shit out of the trigger housing and mechanisms and leaves a "dry" lubricating like film.
Re: Lighter fluid?
lighter fluid helps flush grit out and it dries with no residue, use whatever kind you can find. clp is a thin oil and dust and grit will stick to oil making you need to clean the trigger again
lighter fluid helps flush grit out and it dries with no residue, use whatever kind you can find. clp is a thin oil and dust and grit will stick to oil making you need to clean the trigger again
Re: Lighter fluid?
Our local Wal-Mart stopped carrying lighter fluid at the same time they stopped carrying Zippo lighters. That seems kind of stupid, since Zippos have been around for about a hundred years, but, I digress.
Lighter fluid is mostly naptha. So is Coleman stove fuel, and it's a lot cheaper.
Our local Wal-Mart stopped carrying lighter fluid at the same time they stopped carrying Zippo lighters. That seems kind of stupid, since Zippos have been around for about a hundred years, but, I digress.
Lighter fluid is mostly naptha. So is Coleman stove fuel, and it's a lot cheaper.
Re: Lighter fluid?
Thanks for the tips on the lighter fluid, and the Coleman's. I can backup this statement:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bugholes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">clp is a thin oil and dust and grit will stick to oil making you need to clean the trigger again</div></div>
This seems to be just what happened. The trigger started out good and then has gradually gotten heavier and rougher feeling.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the tips on the lighter fluid, and the Coleman's. I can backup this statement:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bugholes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">clp is a thin oil and dust and grit will stick to oil making you need to clean the trigger again</div></div>
This seems to be just what happened. The trigger started out good and then has gradually gotten heavier and rougher feeling.
Thanks again!
Re: Lighter fluid?
Caution! Lighter fluid and Coleman Camp Fuel are NOT the same and should not be interchanged.
Lighter fluid and Coleman Camp fuel are both classified as distillates of the naptha family of hydrocarbons, but have very different properties, i.e. flash point.
per MSDS docs, flash point (in degrees F) is as follows:
Lighter fluid ~ 42F // Coleman Camp Fuel ~ <0F
If you want to prove it, try using each one to enhance lighting a charcoal fire - better stand back with the Coleman Fuel!
In other words, don't load your Zippo or handwarmer with Coleman Camp Fuel.
Kevin
Caution! Lighter fluid and Coleman Camp Fuel are NOT the same and should not be interchanged.
Lighter fluid and Coleman Camp fuel are both classified as distillates of the naptha family of hydrocarbons, but have very different properties, i.e. flash point.
per MSDS docs, flash point (in degrees F) is as follows:
Lighter fluid ~ 42F // Coleman Camp Fuel ~ <0F
If you want to prove it, try using each one to enhance lighting a charcoal fire - better stand back with the Coleman Fuel!
In other words, don't load your Zippo or handwarmer with Coleman Camp Fuel.
Kevin
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