Gunsmithing LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

Use a soldering gun and place it on the screw head. Apply heat that way...Other than that, its "permanent" and hard to get off for a reason
smile.gif
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

I use a soldering iron right on the head of the screw for a while.... I can usually see a faint amount of smoke or smell it.. if that makes sense.....

I also use the appropriate tool , torx for example, and smack the end of it smartly (the tool while in the head of the screw ), to shock it, that has worked for me so far.... and as I take the screw out I work it back and forth, or in and out rather.... this helps break it up..
the heat kind of turns it into powder....
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use a soldering iron right on the head of the screw for a while.... I can usually see a faint amount of smoke or smell it.. if that makes sense.....

I also use the appropriate tool , torx for example, and smack the end of it smartly (the tool while in the head of the screw ), to shock it, that has worked for me so far.... and as I take the screw out I work it back and forth, or in and out rather.... this helps break it up..
the heat kind of turns it into powder.... </div></div>

There is a fine line between smacking it smartly and hitting it too hard causing the screw to shear off. This is why AR Bolt keys are staked from the side rather than directly straight down, as S&W learned quickly on the M&P AR bolts.

Also prior to adding heat you can put a drop of kroil and let it sit for a few then add a drop of MEK and let it sit some more it will help degrade the compound some. Usually the solder gun works along with some choice profanities....
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

----Usually the solder gun works along with some choice profanities....

Generally very true.

One other word of caution. Before smacking, hitting, nudging, persuading, adjusting, tuning, or 'changing it's mind' with any type of hammer, you must very carefully consider which hammer you are going to do this with. You are working on a firearm here, and it is not a Caterpillar Tractor. (though your frustration level IS earthmoving,,,) So, once you have chosen the actually applicable hammer for the job, PICK THE NEXT SIZE DOWN.

5 or 6 extra needed taps, are much more preferable to one "Awww Craaaaaapppp".
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

Thanks for the tip stillbuster, I will try that...
to be more clear... I rap it straight down, or into the head...
not trying to unscrew it
and I use a 1/2" drive 7/8" deepwell socket....
sounds funny, but it has enough heft to smack it without letting me go "full caveman"
wink.gif
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

chpprguy, I was not trying to say your were doing anything wrong, I do the same thing, I was just trying to save the OP an "oh shit".
As far as a bolt/screw head popping off when you hit it to hard... ask me how I know!!!! I have plenty "damnits" that were very expensive learning lessons....
 
Re: LOCTITE RED REMOVAL

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stillbuster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have plenty "damnits" that were very expensive learning lessons.... </div></div>

I resemble that remark !
I took no offense, was just trying to quantify the amount of smack to the OP...
I will try the MEK next time... that stuff works well and doesn't evaporate too quick....