Gunsmithing Looking for a barrel?

UCChris

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 9, 2014
138
4
Utah, USA
Ok, so I'm new-ish, so hopefully I don't mess up a ton of terminology here.

I'm looking for a custom, heavy contour, barrel. My factory barrel has 1"-16 rear threading and the threaded part measures 1". Anybody know where I can get a real heavy contour, 16.5", barrel with these specs? Thanks!
 
Ruger American Predator. I'm looking to get a 16.5" bull barrel for it.

I know some of you are going to say, "why not go with the Rem700 or something that is more modular". Reason being, I already have a RAP, I can't spend that much (a Rem700) at once. I don't mind building up on this slowly.
 
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Easy:

1) Figure out which barrel maker you want to buy from. Bartlein, Lilja, Krieger, etc.
2) Pick contour from their info online.
3) Order barrel
4) Wait
5) Receive barrel
6) Send barrel and action to the builder of your choice (ask first if they will do the work on your Ruger) and they will fit the barrel, chamber it, cut it to length, and even apply a finish if you like.
7) Wait some more. Short Action Customs and Long Rifles Inc do nice work, and they are fairly quick.
8) Get action with new barrel back, install and stock, shoot, have fun.
 
Thanks Pinecone. I was under the impression that I got the barrel ready to drop into the action from the barrel manufacturer.

I want a 16.5" Bartlein MTU in 1:8 twist. This costs $325 if I'm reading correctly. However, they're backed up 5-6 months. Is there a barrel manufacturer that can get one out quicker than that? I'm not going to be able to afford it for 4-5 months, but I don't want to have to wait another 5-6 months when I do finally order it...

Then I have to send it to a builder. How much does that run (ballpark)?
 
There are plenty of distributors that keep barrels in stock check Grizzly also or Brunos if you don't mind paying out the wazoo. You least you will have to have done is chamber and thread and assemble the barreled action (unless you have a lathe) and then drop into your stock.
 
Most any shop will be running between $250 and $350 then any finish beyond bead blasting will likely be $100-$250 more depending on the finish. Your stock will also need to have the barrel channel opened up most likely or if the forend isn't big enough you may be looking at a new stock.
 
Are you sure you're going to find an appropriate stock? You won't be able to reuse your existing stock, not would you want to.

Why so heavy and short? What are you using this rifle for? Where is the current barrel falling short? Ask these questions now, before you spend money that you'll not be able to recoup after you pay for expensive smith if that may not provide you with the op propitiate rifle for your needs. A 16.5" MTU seems like a lot of weight for a short-range gun. If it doesn't do what you want, a Ruger American with such a heavy, short barrel will be hard to sell if you don't love it.

For what you'll spend, you can buy a factory Rem 700p or Varmit, Tactical, etc.

Honestly, I hate to say, this seems like a futile practice. By the time you get this Ruger where you want it, a new rifle will be cheaper.

Also note, you could be without your rifle six months or more while it is being smithed, so a second rifle makes sense in that you have something to shoot in the interim.


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I hear what you're saying Tyler. The goal was to have a short, maneuverable rifle for short-medium range coyote. I didn't realize how much weight a thick barrel adds. And the added weight of an aftermarket stock. I think I'm just going to chop the factory barrel and leave the chinsy stock. It'll be lightweight for sure.

I actually have a Remington 700 SPS AAC build planned using an AICS chassis and an aftermarket 7mm-08 barrel. Maybe a short, thick barrel would be more appropriate on that build.
 
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I'd think your plan to chop the factory barrel is much better. When you're hunting, you're not going to put together long strings of shots so the thick barrel isn't all that advantageous. I personally prefer heavy barrels to allow long strings of shots without stringing to keep the barrel cool longer, and to help reduce recoil. My hunting rifles are typically #3 or #4. Cutting it will save money. It it maintains adequate accuracy at the maximum range you intend to shoot game, then you're money ahead. If not, you could always get a replacement close to the factory contour. You'll appreciate the weight (or lack thereof) when hunting and carrying the rifle from call stand to call stand.

Good luck with your rifle as your season!


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Thanks Pinecone. I was under the impression that I got the barrel ready to drop into the action from the barrel manufacturer.

I want a 16.5" Bartlein MTU in 1:8 twist. This costs $325 if I'm reading correctly. However, they're backed up 5-6 months. Is there a barrel manufacturer that can get one out quicker than that? I'm not going to be able to afford it for 4-5 months, but I don't want to have to wait another 5-6 months when I do finally order it...

Then I have to send it to a builder. How much does that run (ballpark)?

The problem (if you can find one) with drop in barrels you end up with a factory type fit. Keep in mind the actions and bolts can vary dimensionally. You can get a barrel with a real good fit and it headspace correctly or you can get one that doesn't fit good and has had spacing problems. The old saying applies here. You get what you pay for.

That's why we don't offer drop in barrels. Been down that road. One guys barrel fits like a million bucks and the next one doesn't fit at all. Not to mention a guy buys a used rifle that some gunsmithing work has been done to it and has altered the action/bolt even more. We have no control over what has been done or could be done.

I know your trying to save some money and some time but sometimes this comes back to haunt you. Do your home work well and pick the best route that will work for your application.

You could buy a blank from Grizzly or Bugholes like was mentioned and get a smith to install it for you.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels