As I stated I am looking for any tricks others have used to install a prefit barrel with the nut on an Origin action. I have a go/no go gage also a barrel nut wrench. I have read all that I can find on this both here and on youtube and it looks pretty much straightforward, What I am looking for is any little tips others have learned in the past.
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Slide the go gauge under the extractor and then chamber it, don’t force it to pop over the gauge rim already inside the chamber. Other than that a shouldered prefit barrel should be easy.
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If I’m reading his post correctly, this is not a shouldered barrel. He mentions a barrel nut and barrel nut wrench.
If I had advice I would give it, but I have not ever barreled a bolt action, only AR’s. I’m sure others with experience will chime in.
So what I do. I learned this from an accomplished shooter who is also a mechanical engineer. Put a piece of trim tape or scotch tape on the back of the go gauge with no hangover. Put some red thread locker "only under the barrel nut!" Screw the action on with the taped go gauge until it is snug on the gauge. Snug the barrel nut down by hand. Let it sit assembled at least 30 minutes for the thread locker to set up. After that remove the bolt and go gauge. Put the barrel in a barrel vise and torque the action on just like it's a shouldered barrel. The tape should be no thicker than .004" the torque should give you a gain of about .002" that will give you somewhere between +.001-.002" headspace. Remove the tape from the go gauge and check the chamber. The go should have little to no resistance and it should stop hard on the no go gauge. That should do it. The red thread locker can be broken loose with about 300° which can be done with a hand held propane torch if need be or when you reuse the nut.
You are, and I did, I’m just dumb, didn’t mean shouldered, meant prefit, just got in a rush.
OP, I firstly measure the go gauge and brass I intend to use.
If say new brass is a few thou less than the gauge I start the barrel in action(lubed accordingly) then slip gauge under the extractor and close action
Screw barrel down to stop(not
force) screw nut tightWith action wrench and barrel in Vice tighten to 30-80 ft-lbs
Thanks for all the advice. All went well, used go/no gages, worked like charm. But I may be having an issue with the round chambering real smooth. I like to close the bolt slow, easy, and quietly but to get the round to chamber I have to close fast and with some force to get the bolt to pick up the round. Is this common with the Origin? I am using MDT mags.
Pics will help clarify what you’re trying to say because I have no idea. It’s a center feed mag so it shouldn’t be off center anywhere.
But yeah, you’ll have to bend and mess with the mags feed lips to optimize its feeding. Measure them before so you can get a baseline. These numbers were for an accurate mag feeding 6creed in my origin out of an acc, had to open them a smidge. I also sand paper the inside lips to smooth them up a bit and make it less snaggy. Took some toying with.
But yeah, you’ll have to bend and mess with the mags feed lips to optimize its feeding. Measure them before so you can get a baseline. These numbers were for an accurate mag feeding 6creed in my origin out of an acc, had to open them a smidge. I also sand paper the inside lips to smooth them up a bit and make it less snaggy. Took some toying with.
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I guess off center was the wrong term. The tip of the round hits just below the opening in the barrel rather than centering into the chamber when closing the bolt.
TLDNR: call Zermatt and troubleshoot
I had an identical issue (minus the running bolt slow and quiet) with my Origin action and a barrel nut system. I spent way too much time messing with mags and chassis to try to fix it. The actual issue was that I had bent the extractor with the no-go gauge when I installed the barrel. If you didn't remove the extractor when you gauged it, there is a good chance you did the same. Before you spend too much time adjusting everything, call Zermatt and have them troubleshoot it with you. Zermatt's technical guys are very helpful. Chances are they will send you a new extractor which may resolve your issue.
Also when feeding from the mag slowly the point of the bullet is leaving a copper mark on the center of the feed ramp, like the tip is staying down due to the extractor not engaging the rim fully rather than rising up from the bolt moving forward. If you work the bolt forward fast and with some force, the extractor will pick up the round.
I will check the extractor, but I was very careful placing the gage under the extractor each time I inserted it into the chamber.
This sounds like a bent extractor. Call Zermatt and they will get you squared away. After calling them, my issue was resolved at no cost to me and I was back in business within a week.
As I had stated, I was very careful to place the gages under the extractor each time I inserted, which was two for the go gage and two for the no go. I check as closely as I could didn't see any damage, but you guys know more than I do that's why I am asking. Where would I see the damage? Also, I will give Zermatt a call just need to find their number.
I did the same thing (carefully put the gauges behind extractor), but somehow I bent the extractor. There was no damage visible, but it was bent just enough to make feeding rounds really rough. Zermatt phone number is 402-782-2884.
Thanks for all the comments. Called Zermatt tec and explained the issue and was told that odds were very small that the extractor was damaged, the tec said that the issue I was giving him was common with a control feed bolt face. What I was feeling was the lock-up of the extractor and they would change out my bolt face for a push feed at no cost and that would clear up my problem with single feeding. Those are some good people to work with, just wish I had known that a push feed bolt face was available when I purchased the action.
