This update covers the purchase and installation of the bases, rings, scope, bipod, and boresighting. With the amout of pictures, this will be in two parts.
I started the mounting process for the optic. I had removed the rear sight for clearance of the objective lens of the scope, it easily tapped out to the bolt side of the rifle by using the plastic handle of a screwdriver.
I went with the weaver styled bases (of which I will eventually go with a 1 piece 20moa, remember this is the "low budget Wal-Mart trainer"), I like to put a little bit of lubrication as a rust barrier on the bottom of the base.
1. Inspect the threads of the mounting screws for damage, even do a "screw only, no base" dry run to make sure the threads are engaging properly. Then add a little loctite or clear nail polish to the threads of the mounting screws, then screw the bases to the receiver. Don't tighten the first screw all the way down, as to have some "give" to the next mounting screw. In the event that the holes in the base or
receiver are slightly off, you don't damage the threads on screw or receiver.
Once all screws are snugged, tighten.
Before we go to mounting the rings, place the rifle on a solid surface in a rest or bipod (if using bipod, adjust legs and set / lock in when level and don’t touch until scope mounting is complete) and place a small level on top of the base. Adjust until you get a level reading, and try not to move the rifle any further. You can make marks in pencil or tape on the bench table or you are using, on the receiver using pen marks on the receiver, so as to realign those marks with a level line to return the rifle back to level in case you have to move it. This levels the receiver of the rifle, and will help later with aligning the crosshairs and other enhancements.
2. Next are the rings, although the optic chosen came with a set, they were too high to achieve an effective cheek weld. Although I have several sets of rings in my "leftovers box" from previous projects, with keeping the low budget Wal-Mart trainer concept, I had purchased weaver quad loc rings (4x4) as I like the look and function of the split ring design. I got the medium height which just leaves a whisker of space between the scope and barrel. The optic I purchased also came with lens covers. When using the medium height rings, the front cover cannot fit, so I will have to go out of Wal-Mart to get a front one.
TIP - Don't toss the old rings, they make great economical laser / flashlight mounts, as well as a homemade anti-cant device (will do and show eventually in the project).
3. Just like the bases, don't tighten down the rings completely to the bases. Allow for some "give", as you want to put a length of 1" (for 1" scope tubes) round stock where the scope would go to use as a scope ring alignment tool. Just like mounting a scope, don't tighten the first screw down and move on to the next, but leave a little "give" so you can even out the clamping pressure. If you don't have a torque wrench, this can be done in the neighborhood by measuring the gap between where the top lock of the ring meets the bottom part of the ring with an automotive sparkplug feeler/gap gauge, or you can "eye ball it" to some extent. Once the top lock is tightened to the round stock (it will allow the rings to be in alignment with each other to prevent unnecessary torqueing and bending of the scope), you can tighten the rings in place to the bases. Remove the top locks, and 1" round stock, you are now aligned and ready to accept the scope.
4. The optic I purchased for this rifle is a Centerpoint 4-16x. It has an adjustable 40mm objective (from 5 yds to "infinity", 1/4" @ 100 yards adj. turrets, illuminated mil dot reticle, adjustable ocular / focus / eye relief with good gripping grooves on all adjustment knobs. It includes rings, lens covers, 2 batteries, lens cloth, and a lifetime warranty, also comes with a small mil dot ranging chart for various sized targets. As a second focal plane reticle, the chart doesn't notate what power they are using for ranging, I can only assume based on the standard 10x. It’s actually a somewhat heavy scope, much heavier than the usual “blister packaged” bushnell, tasco, bsa scopes.
I have the same optic on a .22 magnum, and it has performed well in cold, heat, rain, snow. Repeatable numbered turrets have locks on them so they can't be accidentally moved. Surprising reliable and clear for $69.00. There is also an available 3" sunshade from the manufacturer on their website. Although I prefer the target dot for silhouette and known distance target shooting, the mil dot crosshairs are thin enough to be effective for such, and will serve double duty well as a tactical trainer.
on to part 2, the actual mounting of the scope, leveling of crosshairs, bore sight made easy, bipod.
PART II
I started the mounting process for the optic. I had removed the rear sight for clearance of the objective lens of the scope, it easily tapped out to the bolt side of the rifle by using the plastic handle of a screwdriver.
I went with the weaver styled bases (of which I will eventually go with a 1 piece 20moa, remember this is the "low budget Wal-Mart trainer"), I like to put a little bit of lubrication as a rust barrier on the bottom of the base.
1. Inspect the threads of the mounting screws for damage, even do a "screw only, no base" dry run to make sure the threads are engaging properly. Then add a little loctite or clear nail polish to the threads of the mounting screws, then screw the bases to the receiver. Don't tighten the first screw all the way down, as to have some "give" to the next mounting screw. In the event that the holes in the base or
receiver are slightly off, you don't damage the threads on screw or receiver.
Once all screws are snugged, tighten.
Before we go to mounting the rings, place the rifle on a solid surface in a rest or bipod (if using bipod, adjust legs and set / lock in when level and don’t touch until scope mounting is complete) and place a small level on top of the base. Adjust until you get a level reading, and try not to move the rifle any further. You can make marks in pencil or tape on the bench table or you are using, on the receiver using pen marks on the receiver, so as to realign those marks with a level line to return the rifle back to level in case you have to move it. This levels the receiver of the rifle, and will help later with aligning the crosshairs and other enhancements.
2. Next are the rings, although the optic chosen came with a set, they were too high to achieve an effective cheek weld. Although I have several sets of rings in my "leftovers box" from previous projects, with keeping the low budget Wal-Mart trainer concept, I had purchased weaver quad loc rings (4x4) as I like the look and function of the split ring design. I got the medium height which just leaves a whisker of space between the scope and barrel. The optic I purchased also came with lens covers. When using the medium height rings, the front cover cannot fit, so I will have to go out of Wal-Mart to get a front one.
TIP - Don't toss the old rings, they make great economical laser / flashlight mounts, as well as a homemade anti-cant device (will do and show eventually in the project).
3. Just like the bases, don't tighten down the rings completely to the bases. Allow for some "give", as you want to put a length of 1" (for 1" scope tubes) round stock where the scope would go to use as a scope ring alignment tool. Just like mounting a scope, don't tighten the first screw down and move on to the next, but leave a little "give" so you can even out the clamping pressure. If you don't have a torque wrench, this can be done in the neighborhood by measuring the gap between where the top lock of the ring meets the bottom part of the ring with an automotive sparkplug feeler/gap gauge, or you can "eye ball it" to some extent. Once the top lock is tightened to the round stock (it will allow the rings to be in alignment with each other to prevent unnecessary torqueing and bending of the scope), you can tighten the rings in place to the bases. Remove the top locks, and 1" round stock, you are now aligned and ready to accept the scope.
4. The optic I purchased for this rifle is a Centerpoint 4-16x. It has an adjustable 40mm objective (from 5 yds to "infinity", 1/4" @ 100 yards adj. turrets, illuminated mil dot reticle, adjustable ocular / focus / eye relief with good gripping grooves on all adjustment knobs. It includes rings, lens covers, 2 batteries, lens cloth, and a lifetime warranty, also comes with a small mil dot ranging chart for various sized targets. As a second focal plane reticle, the chart doesn't notate what power they are using for ranging, I can only assume based on the standard 10x. It’s actually a somewhat heavy scope, much heavier than the usual “blister packaged” bushnell, tasco, bsa scopes.
I have the same optic on a .22 magnum, and it has performed well in cold, heat, rain, snow. Repeatable numbered turrets have locks on them so they can't be accidentally moved. Surprising reliable and clear for $69.00. There is also an available 3" sunshade from the manufacturer on their website. Although I prefer the target dot for silhouette and known distance target shooting, the mil dot crosshairs are thin enough to be effective for such, and will serve double duty well as a tactical trainer.
on to part 2, the actual mounting of the scope, leveling of crosshairs, bore sight made easy, bipod.
PART II
