This update includes some money saving, and slightly time consuming ways to make your own "tacticool" accessories such as an Anti Cant device, objective lens kill flash, accessory rails, light mounts.
As an accessory kind of guy (and who isn't) I wanted to put on some interesting accessories to enhance the "tacticool" side of the rifle, but as the budget for the basics is growing, the funds are getting low for "tacticool" accessories. Here's a few things that I did to curb that at very low cost.
These are very low dollar items, and you may already have them in your home.
The scope we have mounted on the rifle came with and objective lens cover, but wouldn't fit the scope "as is" because of it being so close to the barrel, and the "gripper grooves" used for adjustment wouldn't allow the cover to go on. So i had set the objective to 50 yards, put on the cover as far as i could, marked on the cover where it rubs. Then I turned the objective adjustment, taking note and making other marks on the cover, then cut this area way from the back leaving the very front edge intact to ensure the cap will close. I also had to notch out the bottom of the face of the cover, in the same manner for clearance, as shown above. As it's now notched, it lost some rigidity, so a little 2 way tape may be needed to make sure it's secure.
I then found some nylon screen (for screen doors, windows, etc.) in the corner of the basement. I looked at the Walmart hardware section, they only carry it seasonally, at the big chain hardware store, it was really super cheap for a lot of it (can't recall the price). I cut a small section placed it over the objective lens, then slipped the cover over it...
The screen does darken the optic slightly, but there is no distortion and costs a few cents.
While I was at the hardware store, I seen some cheap levels ($1.50), then I considered an anti cant device(ACD). I took the scope rings that originally came with the scope, filed and sanded off a few spots to make them less "scope ringish". Then rounded off the edges. I took one of the vials out of the level, measured it to a drill bit, then drilled a hole slightly smaller in the scope ring. I figured I would have to notch out a part for visibility, as marked below in red.
Side mounted
top mounted
I took some sandpaper wrapped around an inkpen to smooth the inside of the hole, then lightly sanded, wiped with acetone, and painted the mount. When dry, I once again sanded the inside
of the hole to remove the paint and get it "silver" again, fit the vial in, marked where the bottom touchs, then removed and added superglue to these areas.
Then, as in the scope mounting post, I drew a plumb line with a level on some paper and hung it on the wall, lined up our crosshairs that we know are also level, and adjusted the ACD until it was calibrated with the rifle.
Then slowly tighten the screws making sure it stays calibrated.
Being a left handed shooter and using a right handed rifle, I thought and measured that the side mounted (on the bolt side) would clear the bolt which was the reason for the big slope on the one side. It did clear until i put the vial in it. So i'll make another for top mounted use.
I then seen a 1" flashlight for $12.00, so I took our remaining ring from the scope, and clamped it to the flashlight. Using left over weaver bases (new ones are $6.49 at Walmart) from past rifles, I put extra notches in them with a file for adjustability, painted, and strategically placed and attached them to the stock using small or flat headed screw. Make sure to drill pilot holes. Be sure to line up the light, a target, and your cross hairs up first and mark it on the stock before drilling holes.
I had some rail covers left over from another project, so I put them on when nothing is attached.
Other views:
![url]](http://[url="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF046-1.jpg"]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF046-1.jpg[/url])
![url]](http://[url="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF047.jpg"]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF047.jpg[/url])
![url]](http://[url="http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF048.jpg"]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu54/WALTERRO/MKII%20F/MKIIF048.jpg[/url])
While in the the automotive section, I thought about a camper leveler or "spirit level" to use as a cosine or angle indicator. It's limited to 30 degrees, and only costs $9.97. It has 3m adhesive on the back but is a bit "fugly", so my intention is to have it removable. A strip of velcro on the gun and on the back of the camper level took care of that. I figured it's as simple as leveling the rifle by putting a level on the barrel, to know the rifle is even, then attach the "cosine indicator" to my rifle, repositioning it until the bubble is on "0".
To make it removable / reattachable and calibrated, I could make marks on the indicator and the stock. Realign the marks and you are GTG. There are a few camper levels on line that give more degrees and detail, but this was at hand. I didn't get one, but will and give it a test against a regular cosine indicator to see it's effectiveness.
Other than the paint drying, it all took about 3 hours, and under $15.00.
TOTALS:
RIFLE...............$127.00
BIPOD.................39.97
B. GROUND CHECK........5.00
SCOPE.................69.97
RINGS................. 9.47
ULTRA BLACK KRYLON.... 4.44
STUDS (2 packs)....... 9.98
CHEEKPIECE+RAIL.......42.00
SLING.................16.97
BASES(USED AS RAILS)...6.49
"CHEAP ACCESSORIES
MATERIALS"............15.00
TAX...................19.88
= $366.17
OVERALL TIME = 33 HOURS
As an accessory kind of guy (and who isn't) I wanted to put on some interesting accessories to enhance the "tacticool" side of the rifle, but as the budget for the basics is growing, the funds are getting low for "tacticool" accessories. Here's a few things that I did to curb that at very low cost.
These are very low dollar items, and you may already have them in your home.
The scope we have mounted on the rifle came with and objective lens cover, but wouldn't fit the scope "as is" because of it being so close to the barrel, and the "gripper grooves" used for adjustment wouldn't allow the cover to go on. So i had set the objective to 50 yards, put on the cover as far as i could, marked on the cover where it rubs. Then I turned the objective adjustment, taking note and making other marks on the cover, then cut this area way from the back leaving the very front edge intact to ensure the cap will close. I also had to notch out the bottom of the face of the cover, in the same manner for clearance, as shown above. As it's now notched, it lost some rigidity, so a little 2 way tape may be needed to make sure it's secure.
I then found some nylon screen (for screen doors, windows, etc.) in the corner of the basement. I looked at the Walmart hardware section, they only carry it seasonally, at the big chain hardware store, it was really super cheap for a lot of it (can't recall the price). I cut a small section placed it over the objective lens, then slipped the cover over it...
The screen does darken the optic slightly, but there is no distortion and costs a few cents.
While I was at the hardware store, I seen some cheap levels ($1.50), then I considered an anti cant device(ACD). I took the scope rings that originally came with the scope, filed and sanded off a few spots to make them less "scope ringish". Then rounded off the edges. I took one of the vials out of the level, measured it to a drill bit, then drilled a hole slightly smaller in the scope ring. I figured I would have to notch out a part for visibility, as marked below in red.
Side mounted
top mounted
I took some sandpaper wrapped around an inkpen to smooth the inside of the hole, then lightly sanded, wiped with acetone, and painted the mount. When dry, I once again sanded the inside
of the hole to remove the paint and get it "silver" again, fit the vial in, marked where the bottom touchs, then removed and added superglue to these areas.
Then, as in the scope mounting post, I drew a plumb line with a level on some paper and hung it on the wall, lined up our crosshairs that we know are also level, and adjusted the ACD until it was calibrated with the rifle.
Then slowly tighten the screws making sure it stays calibrated.
Being a left handed shooter and using a right handed rifle, I thought and measured that the side mounted (on the bolt side) would clear the bolt which was the reason for the big slope on the one side. It did clear until i put the vial in it. So i'll make another for top mounted use.
I then seen a 1" flashlight for $12.00, so I took our remaining ring from the scope, and clamped it to the flashlight. Using left over weaver bases (new ones are $6.49 at Walmart) from past rifles, I put extra notches in them with a file for adjustability, painted, and strategically placed and attached them to the stock using small or flat headed screw. Make sure to drill pilot holes. Be sure to line up the light, a target, and your cross hairs up first and mark it on the stock before drilling holes.
I had some rail covers left over from another project, so I put them on when nothing is attached.
Other views:
While in the the automotive section, I thought about a camper leveler or "spirit level" to use as a cosine or angle indicator. It's limited to 30 degrees, and only costs $9.97. It has 3m adhesive on the back but is a bit "fugly", so my intention is to have it removable. A strip of velcro on the gun and on the back of the camper level took care of that. I figured it's as simple as leveling the rifle by putting a level on the barrel, to know the rifle is even, then attach the "cosine indicator" to my rifle, repositioning it until the bubble is on "0".
To make it removable / reattachable and calibrated, I could make marks on the indicator and the stock. Realign the marks and you are GTG. There are a few camper levels on line that give more degrees and detail, but this was at hand. I didn't get one, but will and give it a test against a regular cosine indicator to see it's effectiveness.
Other than the paint drying, it all took about 3 hours, and under $15.00.
TOTALS:
RIFLE...............$127.00
BIPOD.................39.97
B. GROUND CHECK........5.00
SCOPE.................69.97
RINGS................. 9.47
ULTRA BLACK KRYLON.... 4.44
STUDS (2 packs)....... 9.98
CHEEKPIECE+RAIL.......42.00
SLING.................16.97
BASES(USED AS RAILS)...6.49
"CHEAP ACCESSORIES
MATERIALS"............15.00
TAX...................19.88
= $366.17
OVERALL TIME = 33 HOURS
