Gunsmithing LRI’s camo photo gallery

dang472

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  • Feb 3, 2012
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    Kingston, IL
    I bought Chad’s digital misprint camo template and I’m looking for some examples of the color combos you guys have. I’m building my 22 Creed AR10 thermal coyote destroyer and need a little visual help. My original plan is a 3 color cerakote: light sand, coyote tan, and patriot brown.
     
    Here's 3 color gray/white/black

     
    Pac West DMP:
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    Chad, or others that have LRI’s camo finishes, how are they wearing after use? I know Cerakote is mighty tough, but any pictures of some after they’ve lived out in the wild? Shy of taking a gouge out- that scrapes down to, or in, the stock- are these finishes good for decades? I haven’t sprung for one but have always been impressed. Thanks.
     
    Chad, or others that have LRI’s camo finishes, how are they wearing after use? I know Cerakote is mighty tough, but any pictures of some after they’ve lived out in the wild? Shy of taking a gouge out- that scrapes down to, or in, the stock- are these finishes good for decades? I haven’t sprung for one but have always been impressed. Thanks.
     


    My "gamer gun" was built in 2014/15. I shot the snot out of it for 4 seasons. Because I suck and I know it, I used the events I attended more as a means of abusing my shit to evaluate the system as a whole, than to actually try to win anything.

    I beat the piss out of that gun and it shows it. I've darn near cooked the C/K off the suppressor (and/or discolored it so much that it's really not all that recognizable anymore) and there are several gouges and nicks on the stock. That said, the bulk of the work has weathered the storm really well.

    The pattern means nothing. One could paint it up with pink flamingos and it wouldn't matter. How the substrate is prepped and how the product gets applied carries all the weight when it comes to durability. One thing with C/K is that less seems to be more. What I mean by that is applying just enough to get it wet seems to do a far better job than putting the stuff on with a roller. X2 when it comes to edges. It's not always practical to do this, but it does help whenever possible. -with all that in mind never forget that dry spraying the stuff is a killer for sure. It won't last for shit if it's dusted on.

    Hope this helps.
     
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    Also, here’s a little peek behind the scenes of these crazy camo jobs....
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    Its so tedious picking away at all these digital patterns. The people who do this for a living deserve props.
     
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    Heres a recent paint job @LongRifles Inc. Did for me. Freakin flawless.

    Got another color scheme saved up for them to do on an upcoming hunting build. Hope to send em out early next year.

    Mahalo Chad and Kali for the effort put into each detail.
     

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    Also, here’s a little peek behind the scenes of these crazy camo jobs....View attachment 7436247Its so tedious picking away at all these digital patterns. The people who do this for a living deserve props.



    My wife would hug you right now, lol.


    One thing that helps:

    Start peeling as soon as it comes from the oven. When they are soft, it's sooooo much easier. That stuff gets "crispy" if its allowed to cool after a few heat cycles.
     
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    Yeah I messed myself up because I ran out of time on Sunday night. I did the final cure Monday and then peeled stencils Tuesday. Stencils on polymer isn’t bad but the metal was a pain.