Sidearms & Scatterguns m&p pro trigger question. gritty?

pepper 2111

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 19, 2013
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Just got a m&p pro series. its the first one ive ever shot and the trigger feels "gritty" while taking up the slack. Less than 75 rounds through it. Will this go away or is there a very simple solution? Apex kit is prob out of the question as it would likely violate employer policy.

Thanks for your time
 
Too bad the Apex isn't an option... Every M&P stock trigger I've ever pulled has been... less than optimal. Love the guns after the triggers are remediated though.
 
You can take some time polishing or at least removing any sharp edges of the rearmost part of the trigger bar assembly where it contacts the sear. If you remove the sear assembly and leave the trigger in place you can activate the trigger and feel for any drag in the trigger assembly and linkages. I also apply a small amount of graphite loaded grease on the contact points between the trigger bar and sear. Too bad about the APEX...their kit is a nice upgrade.
 
Upon further investigation, an apex duty kit may be acceptable....so the new question is, apex duty kit at 5-5.5lb or leave it alone with 4.5. This gun will be used for comps and ccw. Im not a serious comp guy, just trying to have the best of both worlds
 
Pop the slide off and take a look at the firing pin block. It more than Likely has some concentric rings on the face where the trigger bar rides. Polish the surface very lightly to only remove those tiny rings. (Will have to remove rear sight, little plate, and tiny spring that will end up under the couch to get the block out) Grit will be gone.

Even my pro 9 had this same grit.
 
The firing pin block is the main culprit when it comes to that gritty feeling. I've polished it on two m&p's that I own (along with polishing and stoning all the other applicable parts) and it made a noticeable difference but not as much as I expected. Since you have to drift the PITA of a rear sight off to access it, go ahead and come off the coin for the apex duty kit if it's allowed. If its not then they'll probably frown on you dicking with the internals to begin with. I've done plenty of polishing and stoning on triggers with great success, but the m&p just begs for the apex.
 
Polish out the area of the trigger bar that contacts the striker safety and then polish and slightly break the edge on the striker safety plunger (or install Apex Ultimate Striker Block Kit).
For comps only, I had Kustom Ballistics in IN do work work on mine. I have taken out the articulating trigger, take up and over travel. The trigger pull is right at two pounds.
As for the Apex RAM, I am pretty sure all new M&Ps have the same sear housing and there is no longer a hole thru it for the RAM to be installed. But then newer guns have the audible-tactile reset so the RAM is a waste. My other Pro has a RAM and it didn't make much of a difference to me.
 
Amazingly Glocks are still being procured and the most heavily used side arm for Police and Militaries worldwide.

And the departments that DID go with M&P, are ditching them so fast you can pick up police-trade in's for $300.

Keep throwing bad money after bad money trying to make the M&P servicable. APEX makes a killing of fixing guns flawed from the factory.
 
I have a Pro with a great trigger. But I dry fired many and some are not as good as others. Yes it will smooth out. I also have one with APEX, very nice. Pull the trigger on Apex and 5.5 will feel great.
 
Amazingly Glocks are still being procured and the most heavily used side arm for Police and Militaries worldwide.

And the departments that DID go with M&P, are ditching them so fast you can pick up police-trade in's for $300.

Keep throwing bad money after bad money trying to make the M&P servicable. APEX makes a killing of fixing guns flawed from the factory.

Funny, I've been carrying a M&P on and off duty for six years with only a couple of issues. As far as departments going to M&P's and then ditching them, the only one's I've heard of are the one's trying to make up for poor training and/or officer incompetence by buying new gear. All these gunsmith's making a killing fixing M&P's "flawed from the factory" also seem to be making a killing doing the same things to Glock's. And last I checked police trade in Glock's go for about the same as police trade in M&P's.

The only issues I've had with M&P's amounts to this:
1. With the large backstrap on the M&P40, I found myself bumping the right side slide stop lever with my thumb unless I was careful. Switched back to the medium backstrap and after a conversation with S&W installed a later version of the slide stop(provided free of charge by S&W) that had a heavier spring for my piece of mind. I've never figured out why people get so worked up about ambidextrous controls other then safeties on pistols any way. The "right handed" ones seem to be more efficient for a lefty in the first place.
2. On the 2013 M&P9 I had some issues with some Tula Ammo Brassmaxx ammo due to the bullet profile on some of it being shorter and blunter then normal 9mm bullets during break in. After the first couple hundred rounds, no further issues.

As to the original question, I've never spent any quality time with the Pro models, but my first M&P(2008 M&P40) took about 400 rounds and around 1000 dry fires to smooth out. The second(2007 M&P9) only took a couple hundred rounds and the third(2013 M&P9) came fairly smooth from the factory and what little grittiness there was I only noticed when I was paying more attention to the trigger pull itself then shooting the gun.
 
Have the CORE with the RMR with the green triangle, older eyes can't get good site focus anymore. Dry firing the pistol I can really see the triangle moving throughout the trigger squeeze with the stock trigger. Almost impossible to keep the gun steady with the factory trigger. Installed the apex, problem solved. I like the trigger on my glock the apex on my M&P is comparable if not better than my glock, the FSS version.
 
Too add to my previous comment, problem I had with the stock trigger. It seemed like it had a split second delay between the time the sear broke and the firing pin " let loose" making it difficult to keep a steady trigger pull. Kind of reminded me of shooting a spring piston air gun.