Gunsmithing M16 extractor conversion to BAT Machine bolts.

[LRI]

This week we converted some Bat Machine-made bolts to M16 style. I am so grateful to have the machining resources I do here. This would have been nearly impossible to do otherwise.
These began life as a T slot type extractor with a .545" diameter magnum bolt face. We converted them to .480" and installed our M16 type extractor.

The party started when we discovered that Bat Machine uses a very short "nose" on some of their striker pins. This proved to be an interesting problem to solve.

 

[FatBoy]

That looks awesome. Are the extractors your own design? edit: meaning made in house .

 

[Aftermath]

All that with a Milwaukee cordless!! Amazing!

 

[LRI]

That looks awesome. Are the extractors your own design? edit: meaning made in house .

Yes. I started making my own over a decade ago in an effort to streamline the installation process. Our tempo (75-100 a month) made this pretty clear. We make our own ejector pins too. Most of the M700 bolts we do are converted to use dual ejector pins, so our burn rate on those is 2x that of extractors.

 

[FatBoy]

Yes. I started making my own over a decade ago in an effort to streamline the installation process. Our tempo (75-100 a month) made this pretty clear. We make our own ejector pins too. Most of the M700 bolts we do are converted to use dual ejector pins, so our burn rate on those is 2x that of extractors.

That’s awesome. Looks great!

 

[stevieb92]

Superb! @LRI I recently had a M16 extractor installed on one of my Rem 700 actions and have concerns about it. Is the tip of the extractor supposed to be proud of the bolt nose by about .030 inch or flush? In the pictures you posted of the BAT action, it looks flush. Thanks!

Edit: Full disclosure. This is NOT LRI's work, but it is their extractor. I purchased LRI's extractor and had a different gunsmith install it. I should have just sent it to LRI, but the new gunsmith is a friend in the PRS community and I wanted to give him some work. Mistake on my part that I won't do again.

 

[Mike Casselton]

Call LRI

 

[stevieb92]

Call LRI

I sent an email to LRI with details asking for advice. Thanks!

 

[HerCoStarNTheBeaverPictur]

Call LRI

FWIW, I called them twice and left messages as well as sent an email. Never got a response.

Ended up just going with someone else.

 

[LRI]

Superb! @LRI I recently had a M16 extractor installed on one of my Rem 700 actions and have concerns about it. Is the tip of the extractor supposed to be proud of the bolt nose by about .030 inch or flush? In the pictures you posted of the BAT action, it looks flush. Thanks!

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Judging by this photo, my guess is the pin hole was drilled in the wrong location. It looks to me as though the projection of the extractor paw above the bolt nose is dern near equal to the gap between the back of it and the bolt inlet.

 

[stevieb92]

Judging by this photo, my guess is the pin hole was drilled in the wrong location. It looks to me as though the projection of the extractor paw above the bolt nose is dern near equal to the gap between the back of it and the bolt inlet.

Thanks for getting back to me. I will be getting the location of the hole measured by third party cmm in the next couple days. By my eyeball with my dial caliper, it appears to be about .595 to the front of the bolt lugs, which per your print should be .625. I agree that it's most likely the hole is in the wrong position. The problem is when the extractor is installed, the bolt will not close on an empty chamber. Without the extractor, it closes on an empty chamber normally. The gunsmith (I use that term lightly after getting this project back) says I just need to make the bolt nose recess deeper. I'm not a gunsmith, but I don't think that's an acceptable fix. It could expose more of the case to be unsupported. I learned that my bolt was his first M16 extractor install. I'm not a happy camper at the moment.

 

[ohiofarmer]

Thanks for getting back to me. I will be getting the location of the hole measured by third party cmm in the next couple days. By my eyeball with my dial caliper, it appears to be about .595 to the front of the bolt lugs, which per your print should be .625. I agree that it's most likely the hole is in the wrong position. The problem is when the extractor is installed, the bolt will not close on an empty chamber. Without the extractor, it closes on an empty chamber normally. The gunsmith (I use that term lightly after getting this project back) says I just need to make the bolt nose recess deeper. I'm not a gunsmith, but I don't think that's an acceptable fix. It could expose more of the case to be unsupported. I learned that my bolt was his first M16 extractor install. I'm not a happy camper at the moment.

@stevieb92 , for those who take the time to read your response, they’ll see that @LRI didn’t do the work on your bolt but are being helpful. Maybe include that info in your initial post with the pictures so folks know that isn’t LRI’s work.

 

[stevieb92]

@stevieb92 , for those who take the time to read your response, they’ll see that @LRI didn’t do the work on your bolt but are being helpful. Maybe include that info in your initial post with the pictures so folks know that isn’t LRI’s work.

Will do.

 

[LRI]

I would save the effort of doing this with CMM. This was a pass or fail exercise for your buddy, and it's pretty clear where your at.

Experience is never cheap.

 

[stevieb92]

I would save the effort of doing this with CMM. This was a pass or fail exercise for your buddy, and it's pretty clear where your at.

Experience is never cheap.

I'm still going to get it inspected so I have evidence that he didn't locate the hole correctly. I fear that he is going to refuse to replace my bolt or pay to have it repaired. His "fix" is cutting the bolt nose recess deeper into the barrel, which is unacceptable. It's also a high probability he won't be my buddy after this.