And you drop powder after without any other cleaning ?
In hindsight, I should have planned this all out better, and that's what I'd have done too. I don't intend to run a mandrel on everything all the time. I get great numbers with my bushing die and anealed clean brass. I just need to run quite a few 223 cases that weren't done with a bushing die because the seating force is too much. I also would like to run the mandrel on my 6.5 and 6mm and 308 at times, depending on what I'm preparing the ammo to do
That's what I had planned on doing, then I started reading about galling and all and got skerred
Without lube that SS mandrel will get sticky for sure. Since we are trying to keep everything nice and smooth at this point I think the lube is required to maintain consistency.
You think if I lube the mandrel with imperial wax it would work and not cause issues if I load it up right after? I have some dry lube just got scared off of it with all the galling claims.
I've been using imperial wax on my mandrels for years and I've never had an issue throwing charges immediately after setting my neck tension. I decap, FL size, mandrel for neck tension, throw powder, seat. I use a very small amount of wax on the mandrel and will apply another layer of wax after about 15 to 20 cases
That's what I was hoping to be able to do right there. I am over thinking it due to all of the reading and threads ect.
I will probably end up getting the black carbide ones at some point once I refine exactly how I'm going to do it and when I'm going to do it. I'm not just looking to add any steps but I tend to have to scratch that itch of "it could be a little better" to a certain point too so..... such is the life of a reloader I suppose
Just be very light with the Imperial Wax. I've loaded after without needing to clean but recently had to run the sized/mandrel brass in the walnut shells because I was getting powder sticking to the neck as I loaded where prior it was not an issue. A little Imperial Wax goes a long way. At least in my experience.
I've not seen that issue. I anneal my brass after each firing but I don't tumble in either dry or wet media, maybe that is the difference.
I’m annealing with an amp, they even had to put it in their user FAQ to not use graphite as it dosnt stick.
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Interesting. The -0.008" below nominal bullet diameter seems a bit snugger than what I was looking for (general neck expansion, not just turning) but it's good to have options
Isn't Amp referring to the initial case sizing where you might be sizing the neck down 5-6 thousands? When I use the mandrel I'm only moving the neck out .001 or less just to make sure it is round basically. If you were to move the neck out by .003 with the mandrel I can see that being a problem.
I have never witnessed galling of steel mandrels when I have used graphite nor mica . Did you clean the necks after annealing ?
I had issues with sticky new brass . I dry tumble it now and lube my mandrel instead of the brass . I find mica works best for this . After a few pieces it takes very little effort .
The OP is talking about expander mandrels , not expander ball being pulled back through the neck when FL sizing . Two very different processes , one push the other pull .
I usually give the mandrel a light coating of imperial die wax with a cue tip every once in awhile. If resizing fired brass, I spray my lanolin/alcohol case lube at a 45 degree angle over the case mouths from a couple different directions to get some in the mouth. Sometimes, but not always, after sizing and mandrelling, I’ll give the mouths a light swab with a cue tip. It I never tumble again. SOMETIMES, I see a kernel of powder stick in the mouth but I’ve never had any trouble. With all that said, my ammo never sits for more than a couple of days so I’m not sure what year old ammo would be like.
Lee collet are my go to as well. My 300 PRC I’ll be trying a Redding S bushing die .003” under then a 21st century expanding mandrel
If lube is the question then Imperial Wax is the answer. Are there others? Yes. But none as idiot proof as Imperial. If you apply it at all its probably enough. If you over do it you might get hydraulic dents. If you get hydraulic dents the idiot proof applies to you.
The rcbs old fashioned pad with their lube is what I normally use for sizing. I had a bad experience with one shot and swore that off and went to the pad so I can do multiple cases at a time and it works great. I do have some imperial though that I tend to use when just needing to do one case or two testing something or whatever, and that's what I thought would work best for being able to apply lube directly to the mandrel.
Imperial.is slower for sure. I have used other spray ons and get by with them as well.
I use Imperial when I neck turn (egads !
) my brass and it works fine. A quick "in and out" plunge with a mandrel would be a whole bunch easier/less stress, it would seem. Yes, I do clean/tumble my brass afterwards.
I always wondered about using s mandrel with a Dillon set up. As soon as I get more room I'm going to be looking into one of thr Dillon set ups
