Does anybody know where i can get 98 mauser actions and bottom metals? Im looking to start building them and putting them in custom stocks that im making thanks!
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Gunsmithing Mauser action help please
- Thread starter biscuit75camaro
- Start date
Re: Mauser action help please
Gunbroker isn't a bad place. If you're going to strip it out for the action then buying a "bubba'd up" mauser 98 action isn't too expensive.
Gunbroker isn't a bad place. If you're going to strip it out for the action then buying a "bubba'd up" mauser 98 action isn't too expensive.
Re: Mauser action help please
I have seen them as cheap as 250$ at local gun shows i didnt know if i could find just the actions for less. Im jst now getting into this and the mausers look like a good way to start building custom rifles
I have seen them as cheap as 250$ at local gun shows i didnt know if i could find just the actions for less. Im jst now getting into this and the mausers look like a good way to start building custom rifles
Re: Mauser action help please
They are fun, built many myself. I favor the Turk large ring/small ring actions. Large ring outer dimensions and strength, with a small ring thread shank barrel (.980-12TPI with 55 degree threads). This leaves plenty of meat if you're inclined to true the action and recut the threads. But in the stock form it allows you to use Rem 700 take offs as the new major dia is just inside the rem's minor dia on the shank threads.
Now keep in mind that the LR mauser actions are not like modern actions where the barrel shoulder is torqued against the reciever face. They torque down against an internal c ring. You can change up and once you face the front receiver ring just torque on the shoulder.
Anyway, I get to babbling. For the price, and the limited options in off the shelf high speed shit, Mausers are not an affordable option to build custom rifles. In the end you'll have just as much into it as you would a Rem 700 based stick, but without the resale value if you ever part with it. Only go the Mauser route if you want the pride of doing it yourself, and bragging rights if you build a hammer out of an old warhorse. Good luck, PM me if you need any help/advice.
They are fun, built many myself. I favor the Turk large ring/small ring actions. Large ring outer dimensions and strength, with a small ring thread shank barrel (.980-12TPI with 55 degree threads). This leaves plenty of meat if you're inclined to true the action and recut the threads. But in the stock form it allows you to use Rem 700 take offs as the new major dia is just inside the rem's minor dia on the shank threads.
Now keep in mind that the LR mauser actions are not like modern actions where the barrel shoulder is torqued against the reciever face. They torque down against an internal c ring. You can change up and once you face the front receiver ring just torque on the shoulder.
Anyway, I get to babbling. For the price, and the limited options in off the shelf high speed shit, Mausers are not an affordable option to build custom rifles. In the end you'll have just as much into it as you would a Rem 700 based stick, but without the resale value if you ever part with it. Only go the Mauser route if you want the pride of doing it yourself, and bragging rights if you build a hammer out of an old warhorse. Good luck, PM me if you need any help/advice.
Re: Mauser action help please
I agree with most of what Kenda said depending on your market. With tactical rifles Mauser aren't where its at. Safari rifles are a different story. I'm working with a Guild stock maker and the Mausers that we built go for big money.
Ive heard that sarco sells some every now and then. JG sales has a bunch but either way to do them right is a lot of work.
I agree with most of what Kenda said depending on your market. With tactical rifles Mauser aren't where its at. Safari rifles are a different story. I'm working with a Guild stock maker and the Mausers that we built go for big money.
Ive heard that sarco sells some every now and then. JG sales has a bunch but either way to do them right is a lot of work.
Re: Mauser action help please
I have a custom mauser built off a turkish action the bolt is cromed lol where do you source the actions from? I cant wait to chuck one up once i learn what all needs to be done to them and ill be mainly building hunting rifles with the mauser actions my tactical rifles will be rem 700s mosty like what u said because of parts availability
I have a custom mauser built off a turkish action the bolt is cromed lol where do you source the actions from? I cant wait to chuck one up once i learn what all needs to be done to them and ill be mainly building hunting rifles with the mauser actions my tactical rifles will be rem 700s mosty like what u said because of parts availability
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen them as cheap as 250$ at local gun shows i didnt know if i could find just the actions for less. Im jst now getting into this and the mausers look like a good way to start building custom rifles </div></div>
It used to be a good way to get a less expensive custom. That was back when you could find all kinds of bubba'd up actions or the type with a million copies. Unfortunately, most people want over $200 for actions now that didn't even used to go for $100. 30 years ago, a lot of them went for under $50. And that was when Remingtons were over $300.
Gunbroker or auction arms are your best two places to look.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have seen them as cheap as 250$ at local gun shows i didnt know if i could find just the actions for less. Im jst now getting into this and the mausers look like a good way to start building custom rifles </div></div>
It used to be a good way to get a less expensive custom. That was back when you could find all kinds of bubba'd up actions or the type with a million copies. Unfortunately, most people want over $200 for actions now that didn't even used to go for $100. 30 years ago, a lot of them went for under $50. And that was when Remingtons were over $300.
Gunbroker or auction arms are your best two places to look.
Re: Mauser action help please
I have been sporterizing Mausers for 46 years.
Some of them are almost done.
I prefer VZ24 actions and PAWS bottom metal.
VZ24s have been imported for decades, but a large number entered the country 10 years ago with Century importers and they took years to sell them all. When on sale at BIG5, they were $70.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9718/Product/MAUSER-98-TRIGGERGUARD-FLOORPLATE
I have also milled out the military bottom metal to take the longer 3.34" cartridges.
I got these two VZ24s at a gun show a year ago @ $100 each.
I have been sporterizing Mausers for 46 years.
Some of them are almost done.
I prefer VZ24 actions and PAWS bottom metal.
VZ24s have been imported for decades, but a large number entered the country 10 years ago with Century importers and they took years to sell them all. When on sale at BIG5, they were $70.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9718/Product/MAUSER-98-TRIGGERGUARD-FLOORPLATE
I have also milled out the military bottom metal to take the longer 3.34" cartridges.
I got these two VZ24s at a gun show a year ago @ $100 each.
Re: Mauser action help please
Wow thats those r a stea! Are those bolt handles straight? Do you have a pic of a finished rifle?
Wow thats those r a stea! Are those bolt handles straight? Do you have a pic of a finished rifle?
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow thats those r a stea! Are those bolt handles straight? Do you have a pic of a finished rifle?</div></div>
Biscuit,
Yes, the bolt handles on VZ-24's were straight. I agree, in today's market, original VZ-24's for $100 is a good price. It's a little of the phenomena I talked about in my last post, that buyers get convinced something is drying up and they buy it at whatever cost they see it at. Now, some guys who got too many are needing to sell them. And, they are not selling at the prices they bought them for.
Turk T-38's are another one that all of a sudden took a jump.
Clark,
Those are some nice VZ-24's. Any other odd works you've come up with? I've got a small ring Husqvarna in 9.3x62 and a small ring Mexican 1910 (made in '33) that was sporterized but retained the 7mm chambering. But, not the barrel.
And the one I still kick myself over is the Yugo M48-BO I sporterized. I could have quadrupled my money in five years had I left it alone.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow thats those r a stea! Are those bolt handles straight? Do you have a pic of a finished rifle?</div></div>
Biscuit,
Yes, the bolt handles on VZ-24's were straight. I agree, in today's market, original VZ-24's for $100 is a good price. It's a little of the phenomena I talked about in my last post, that buyers get convinced something is drying up and they buy it at whatever cost they see it at. Now, some guys who got too many are needing to sell them. And, they are not selling at the prices they bought them for.
Turk T-38's are another one that all of a sudden took a jump.
Clark,
Those are some nice VZ-24's. Any other odd works you've come up with? I've got a small ring Husqvarna in 9.3x62 and a small ring Mexican 1910 (made in '33) that was sporterized but retained the 7mm chambering. But, not the barrel.
And the one I still kick myself over is the Yugo M48-BO I sporterized. I could have quadrupled my money in five years had I left it alone.
Re: Mauser action help please
I am not paying for any Mexican Mausers, if you can find them. They are WAY too expensive.
They are the kind of thing that really fancy gunsmiths work on, and then send them to the engraver.
I pick Mausers here and there, but my big purchases were;
~ dozen 1903 Turkish Mausers 2000 @$50 at BIG5
~ dozen VZ24 Mausers 2002 @$70 at BIG5
~ dozen 1903 Turkish Mausers 2006 $80 from Century
~ dozen 1908 Brazilian Mausers 2009 $110 from Century
~ dozen VZ24 7mmMauser Mausers 2009 $140 from Century
These are what they look like when they get slammed together with cheap surplus or take off barrels and cheap $5 stocks from gun shows.
This is one with a new Lothar Walther barrel blank, and a new High Tech Specialties stock [Bansner, Kimber].
I am not paying for any Mexican Mausers, if you can find them. They are WAY too expensive.
They are the kind of thing that really fancy gunsmiths work on, and then send them to the engraver.
I pick Mausers here and there, but my big purchases were;
~ dozen 1903 Turkish Mausers 2000 @$50 at BIG5
~ dozen VZ24 Mausers 2002 @$70 at BIG5
~ dozen 1903 Turkish Mausers 2006 $80 from Century
~ dozen 1908 Brazilian Mausers 2009 $110 from Century
~ dozen VZ24 7mmMauser Mausers 2009 $140 from Century
These are what they look like when they get slammed together with cheap surplus or take off barrels and cheap $5 stocks from gun shows.
This is one with a new Lothar Walther barrel blank, and a new High Tech Specialties stock [Bansner, Kimber].
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anybody know where i can get 98 mauser actions and bottom metals? Im looking to start building them and putting them in custom stocks that im making thanks! </div></div>
Samco Global sells barreled actions and whole rifles in the $180-250 range - Spanish .308's for less than $180, CZ nazi era M98k with markings ground off, and M24/47 yugos.
J&G also currently has M24/47s for $200.
You might find them cheaper at a gun show but with a C& R you can have them mailed to you. As long as you do the paperwork correctly you can transfer them off your ATF ledger and chop 'em up however you like.
I have a turk that I traded off a guy that's destined to become a .300 win mag. I've welded on it so it needs to be re-heat treated. Planning on buying a m24/47 to build a 6.5 Creedmoor with, and maybe another for a .308 deer rifle.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anybody know where i can get 98 mauser actions and bottom metals? Im looking to start building them and putting them in custom stocks that im making thanks! </div></div>
Samco Global sells barreled actions and whole rifles in the $180-250 range - Spanish .308's for less than $180, CZ nazi era M98k with markings ground off, and M24/47 yugos.
J&G also currently has M24/47s for $200.
You might find them cheaper at a gun show but with a C& R you can have them mailed to you. As long as you do the paperwork correctly you can transfer them off your ATF ledger and chop 'em up however you like.
I have a turk that I traded off a guy that's destined to become a .300 win mag. I've welded on it so it needs to be re-heat treated. Planning on buying a m24/47 to build a 6.5 Creedmoor with, and maybe another for a .308 deer rifle.
Re: Mauser action help please
Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do
Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do
Re: Mauser action help please
Here's mine I built 10 years ago...Made from a VZ-24 I picked up for $80.00 back in the day. Surfaced ground all the pits off and got bored and made the one piece scopemount from a piece of steel barstock.
Here's mine I built 10 years ago...Made from a VZ-24 I picked up for $80.00 back in the day. Surfaced ground all the pits off and got bored and made the one piece scopemount from a piece of steel barstock.
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do </div></div>
This is NOT my photo, but will give you an idea of what it's going to look like. That B&C stock, roughly that barrel contour, a +20MOA Farrel mount, possibly a Falcon 4-14 mil/mil or even a Vor-tech, and probably going to steal 300Sniper's muzzle break design that he uses on his .284 Win.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do </div></div>
This is NOT my photo, but will give you an idea of what it's going to look like. That B&C stock, roughly that barrel contour, a +20MOA Farrel mount, possibly a Falcon 4-14 mil/mil or even a Vor-tech, and probably going to steal 300Sniper's muzzle break design that he uses on his .284 Win.
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do </div></div>
1) This is from R.A. Walsh's book on sporterizing Mausers.
If you cut the feed lips per this drawing, your life with the 300 Win Mag in a VZ24 action will be much simpler than if you just start cutting until it feeds. My theory is that Walsh, not a writer but a chief engineer and Mausers collector, wrote this book out of frustration about the poor editing of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on sporterizing Mausers. Kuhnhausen's book on double action Colt revolver gunsmithing is useful, definitive, and superb. But although Jerry's Mauser book has some info in it, it also forces the reader to wade through some incomplete and scatter brained trivia and contrived bs to find what is useful. e.g. The book has little organization, Jerry does not supply drawings of the tooling, and Jerry would have the smith sending parts out for heat treatment when that choice is very questionable.
2) Opening the bolt face to magnum is an interrupted cut in hardened steel.
Go very slowly with carbide and it can be done without breaking the tool.
3) Open the extractor tip for the bigger rim so that the cartridge not only fits, but feeds up from the magazine. Make dummy cartridge with pointed tips, not round tips, to check feeding.
4) Did I mention PAWS bottom metal from Brownells?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9718/Product/MAUSER-98-TRIGGERGUARD-FLOORPLATE
Not only does it save you the painful process of lengthening the inside of magazine boxes from 8mm cartridge length to 300WM cartridge length, but it saves weight.
PAWS Aluminum bottom metal for Mausers weighs 3.5 ounces, as opposed to 8.625 ounces for typical steel bottom metal.
It costs $60 and so the weight savings is ~ $12/ ounce.
If you are building a hunting rifle, that $12/ounce is some cheap weight savings.
I have milled out enough military surplus magazine boxes to feed 3.34" cartridges. The boxes are deep and the corner radii are small. This means a long slim flexible end mill that deflects. So a guy has to cut very slowly waiting for the flexing tool to finish cutting.
But if you want a heavy rifle, you have a mill, and your time is worth little, go ahead and mill out the military bottom metal to fit the 300 Win Mag cartridges. The cartridges may be 3.34" long, but the box has to be longer than that so the cartridges can tip.
5) 300 Win mag chambers are at .220" to .227" per SAAMI and any go gauge you can buy. See above drawing.
300 Win Mag brass per SAAMI is between .212" and .220". See above drawing.
300 Win Mag brass of various brands I have measured is from .210" and .215".
I headspace my magnum rifles at .215". This is tighter than SAAMI.
Factory rifles are set at more than .220" [per SAAMI], and this is part of what handloaders are complaining about with belted magnums. Do a search about belts and shoulders.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: biscuit_75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man keep me updated on the 300 win mag build thats what im wantin to do </div></div>
1) This is from R.A. Walsh's book on sporterizing Mausers.
If you cut the feed lips per this drawing, your life with the 300 Win Mag in a VZ24 action will be much simpler than if you just start cutting until it feeds. My theory is that Walsh, not a writer but a chief engineer and Mausers collector, wrote this book out of frustration about the poor editing of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on sporterizing Mausers. Kuhnhausen's book on double action Colt revolver gunsmithing is useful, definitive, and superb. But although Jerry's Mauser book has some info in it, it also forces the reader to wade through some incomplete and scatter brained trivia and contrived bs to find what is useful. e.g. The book has little organization, Jerry does not supply drawings of the tooling, and Jerry would have the smith sending parts out for heat treatment when that choice is very questionable.
2) Opening the bolt face to magnum is an interrupted cut in hardened steel.
Go very slowly with carbide and it can be done without breaking the tool.
3) Open the extractor tip for the bigger rim so that the cartridge not only fits, but feeds up from the magazine. Make dummy cartridge with pointed tips, not round tips, to check feeding.
4) Did I mention PAWS bottom metal from Brownells?
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9718/Product/MAUSER-98-TRIGGERGUARD-FLOORPLATE
Not only does it save you the painful process of lengthening the inside of magazine boxes from 8mm cartridge length to 300WM cartridge length, but it saves weight.
PAWS Aluminum bottom metal for Mausers weighs 3.5 ounces, as opposed to 8.625 ounces for typical steel bottom metal.
It costs $60 and so the weight savings is ~ $12/ ounce.
If you are building a hunting rifle, that $12/ounce is some cheap weight savings.
I have milled out enough military surplus magazine boxes to feed 3.34" cartridges. The boxes are deep and the corner radii are small. This means a long slim flexible end mill that deflects. So a guy has to cut very slowly waiting for the flexing tool to finish cutting.
But if you want a heavy rifle, you have a mill, and your time is worth little, go ahead and mill out the military bottom metal to fit the 300 Win Mag cartridges. The cartridges may be 3.34" long, but the box has to be longer than that so the cartridges can tip.
5) 300 Win mag chambers are at .220" to .227" per SAAMI and any go gauge you can buy. See above drawing.
300 Win Mag brass per SAAMI is between .212" and .220". See above drawing.
300 Win Mag brass of various brands I have measured is from .210" and .215".
I headspace my magnum rifles at .215". This is tighter than SAAMI.
Factory rifles are set at more than .220" [per SAAMI], and this is part of what handloaders are complaining about with belted magnums. Do a search about belts and shoulders.
Re: Mauser action help please
Here's my Mauser in .308. She'll hold about .75 MOA at 100 yds (best group) with M852 Israeli match. Not really super big deal results until you consider the breakdown:
Complete Turk Mauser $100
Selling the bbl/stock-$50 (gotta love ebay)
Richards Microfit $75 (again, gotta love ebay)
Rem 700 take off bbl $75
Paker Hale Bolt body $80
Oberndorf style BM $70 (ebay,way too much damned time on ebay)
Bold Trigger $50
EGW base $40 (I think. It was a spare that was here)
Total in the rifle= $440
That .75 MOA isn't too bad at all at that price, when I can do my part.
Here's my Mauser in .308. She'll hold about .75 MOA at 100 yds (best group) with M852 Israeli match. Not really super big deal results until you consider the breakdown:
Complete Turk Mauser $100
Selling the bbl/stock-$50 (gotta love ebay)
Richards Microfit $75 (again, gotta love ebay)
Rem 700 take off bbl $75
Paker Hale Bolt body $80
Oberndorf style BM $70 (ebay,way too much damned time on ebay)
Bold Trigger $50
EGW base $40 (I think. It was a spare that was here)
Total in the rifle= $440
That .75 MOA isn't too bad at all at that price, when I can do my part.
Re: Mauser action help please
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kenda</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
Rem 700 take off bbl $75
</div></div>
Kenda, I think Mausers rule and Rem700s suck, but I have a $33 Rem700 take off 7mmRM take off barrel on a Mauser that is so accurate, I know how the 700 got it's fans.
Big Joe,
Do you know the make and part number of your stock?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kenda</div><div class="ubbcode-body">..
Rem 700 take off bbl $75
</div></div>
Kenda, I think Mausers rule and Rem700s suck, but I have a $33 Rem700 take off 7mmRM take off barrel on a Mauser that is so accurate, I know how the 700 got it's fans.
Big Joe,
Do you know the make and part number of your stock?
Re: Mauser action help please
wow this is alot of awesome info! thanks! and i love all the custom mausers
wow this is alot of awesome info! thanks! and i love all the custom mausers
Re: Mauser action help please
Shoot me a Pm if you need some stuff. i have a few factory bottom metals, some untouched, some that have been shaped ont he trigger guards for looks. The FN, and austrians seem to be the better built ones. Ive built quite a few on them. Go to your local gun show's. they seem to have them all the time, and seem to be hte best place to pick through the ones you want.
Shoot me a Pm if you need some stuff. i have a few factory bottom metals, some untouched, some that have been shaped ont he trigger guards for looks. The FN, and austrians seem to be the better built ones. Ive built quite a few on them. Go to your local gun show's. they seem to have them all the time, and seem to be hte best place to pick through the ones you want.
Check out International Arms they still import Mauser modern rifles You might be able just get the actions from them. I had one in the 300 WM.
Good luck
Good luck
I recently bought four 1908 Brazilian Mausers from Sarco. One is in really decent shape. The others will take some TIG welding to sort out the pitting--below and above the wood-line. Everywhere else, crufflers (curio and relic collectors) have dried up the market and driven the price of available stock through the roof. Premium actions from Granite Mountain and Prechtl are an option if you're building for a well-heeled customer. I just started my own machine shop and have modeled a low-profile M98-ish action that I hope to market in the not too distant future. I'll be re-manning mil-surp bottom metal and using forged FN bolt bodies (from Sarco) to keep the prices down. I hope I can keep the prices well below Granite Mountain's and Prechtl's, but they won't be cheap.
