How do you deal with mirage? When shooting past 500 the target is dancing. I guess I should tell you my set up... Been having the most problem with my 308. I have a Leupold Mk6 3-18 on it and I rarely ever use it past 12X unless shooting groups on paper or load development. Most of the time it's between 8X and 12X depending on the distance. With the mirage from the barrel and coming off the ground the target is dancing. I've tried timing my shot so the target bottoms out at the lowest point when the shot breaks but I feel like I'm not using proper fundamentals when doing that. What's your technique? Adjust parallax differently maybe?
Mirage questions
- Thread starter HCICVOGT
- Start date
I have always had good luck with finding the direction the mirage is moving like left to right for example and holding more on the up wind side or left in the example if that makes sence. I dont use big holds for this little problem either i just hold the edge of where i want to hit. Hope this helps
You could always lower magnification a little it is one of those things that is always a struggle
This is why I bought a target vision (haven't used it yet) hopefully it will help in a situation like this.
Also get something over that barrel to help deflect heat away.
Also get something over that barrel to help deflect heat away.
I dought it you could always check to make shure parralax is set right it wont hurt. And i was thinking the paralax i have to deal with could be compleatly diferent then what you have to deal with i really only have to worry about that 2 or 3 months of the year mabey someone one from a more humid enviroment can give you a better answer
Some days the mirage will just be to bad to see hits on steel. If you cant hear it then you wont be able to tell. There isn't anything that you can do about that. I have a 12" plate at 750 yards and in the summer during the heat of the day, I cant tell the difference between a hit or a miss.
Sounds like you are shooting prone? If that is the case, get a tripod or other way to elevate yourself. The difference between prone and just a couple of feet off the ground make a huge difference. The higher you can get your FFP the better.
I usually just shot really early in the morning on those bad mirage type days.
Nothing you can really do about it except run a target cam.
Nothing you can really do about it except run a target cam.
Here in the southeast, shooting is an early morning or late afternoon affair. With high 90s temps and near 100% humidity, mirage is a bitch!!
I think if I lived east of the Mississippi River I doubt I would take too much advice from those of us that live west of it. Big difference from a dry heat mirage to a wet heat one, moisture makes them brutal.
If you cannot see, well, you cannot see, spotting gets tough.
In bad mirages, I focus on the reticle only, in relation to the plate, focusing on both becomes futile, plus it just plain hurts your eyes.
If you cannot see, well, you cannot see, spotting gets tough.
In bad mirages, I focus on the reticle only, in relation to the plate, focusing on both becomes futile, plus it just plain hurts your eyes.
The mirage here in FL looks like a dirty window with water flowing over it.
The target looks like a belly dancer behind it.
Like any mirage though, if you watch your target carefully you will see it dancing. There will always be a specific spot that the target snaps back to. The place it snaps back to is it's actual location.
To see that more clearly, increase the magnification on your scope. It will show you the amount and direction of the mirage, plus it will help identify the snap back position.
I had to learn to shoot though mirage when I shot Benchrest because everyone used 36X (or up to 45X) fixed power scopes.
The target looks like a belly dancer behind it.
Like any mirage though, if you watch your target carefully you will see it dancing. There will always be a specific spot that the target snaps back to. The place it snaps back to is it's actual location.
To see that more clearly, increase the magnification on your scope. It will show you the amount and direction of the mirage, plus it will help identify the snap back position.
I had to learn to shoot though mirage when I shot Benchrest because everyone used 36X (or up to 45X) fixed power scopes.
Odds are, the culprit is the FL sun and heat on the ground, which is what it is, but I'll throw out some other ideas that haven't been mentioned; albeit some may not be practical:
- raise your target higher off the ground
- increase the height of your scope rings/mount
- use a thicker barrel
- try someone else's optic on your rifle to rule out any issues with your scope
- use a sunshade on your scope
- raise your target higher off the ground
- increase the height of your scope rings/mount
- use a thicker barrel
- try someone else's optic on your rifle to rule out any issues with your scope
- use a sunshade on your scope
The last time I tried shooting through heavy mirage I was prone.
Moved up to the picnic table and about 50% of it disappeared.
Mirage is worse than shooting with heavy winds but it can be done.
The ground is the worst place if the mirage is up.
If you really want to see it, make a mirage board of alternating 1" horizontal black and white stripes.
Place it directly below your target as close as you can.
Moved up to the picnic table and about 50% of it disappeared.
Mirage is worse than shooting with heavy winds but it can be done.
The ground is the worst place if the mirage is up.
If you really want to see it, make a mirage board of alternating 1" horizontal black and white stripes.
Place it directly below your target as close as you can.
Shooting more F-class at 600 and 1K where you stay prone, I have to lower magnification down to 8-12X sometimes. Luckily those NRA targets are pretty big.
