Model 70 Featherweight build (Scope mount options)

[Naaman]

This is my first bolt gun. I plan to use it both on my first deer hunt (first hunt of any kind, actually) as well as my "learning gun" for a more custom build some time in the future.

22" bararel, .308 chambering.

I have no skill in regards to reading reticles (been picking the brains of the forum here and reading as many articles as I can) and am not certain whether I will ever get around to shooting at extreme long range.

I have noticed that there are some pic rails out there for the Model 70, but am not certain of their quality/reputation, and I see mostly Model 70s that have rings screwed right into the action.

The scope I currently have is a Trijicon Tenmile 3-18x42. I'm thinking that I may want to be able to switch to another scope later and make this a completely "lightweight build." So I have been thinking that a railed mount would be best (assuming that the return to zero works the same with a scope as it does with other devices commonly installed on ARs).

I'm hung up on two things:

1) For a basic hunting rifle, should I be looking at mounts with a cant? Even if not, at what distance does having a cant become advantageous or necessary? Is a can't disadvantageous below a certain distance?

2) Is there a reputable mounting option for Model 70s for return to zero?

Thanks in advance!

 

[buffybuster]

What cartridge is it chambered for?
Long Action or Short Action?

Basic hunting rifles do not require a canted base.
QD mounts are overrated. Picatinny Rail provides the most options. Near Mfg get's my money for M70/FN Picatinny bases.

 

[Naaman]

Thank you. Forgot to mention it's .308. Will edit the original post.

 

[Naaman]

I was looking at the rifle and the scope yesterday and tried to "ghost fit" the scope over the action. I noticed that the bolt handle comes very close to the ocular end of the tube. Is this normal or do I need to think about getting an extra tall mounting solution to be certain that the bolt handle will clear the scope?

In the future, any tips for assessing fitment combos before making the financial investment?

 

[42N8 1]

With a featherweight you only get one shot. After that your shots will start stringing.

 

[Naaman]

With a featherweight you only get one shot. After that your shots will start stringing.

I've heard similar advice from other folks (wait a few minutes between shots when zeroing, etc.).

 

[Naaman]

Okay...
I have checked several sources all over the internet. I cannot determine whether my .308 FWT is a short action, a long action or a short magnum action for purposes of scope mounting hardware. It otherwise seems to be a "short action" based on the distance between the action screws.

I ordered a rail from Trijicon (TR116) for "Model 70 Short Actions" but the threaded holes do not line up with the holes on the rifle. The holes on the rifle are farther apart. On the rail, the front hole is right around 5 inches from the rear hole. On the rifle, the distance is right around 5 and 1/4 inches as measured on my tape measure.

I looked at Badger Ordinance rails, and their short action rail measures 4.98" (matching the Trijicon rail I bought) for this same measurement (per their website). The only other rail where they give that info measures 5.52."

 

[stello1001]

So for number 1, I would be looking at Ken Farrel bases, Near manufacturing bases, and Murphy Precision bases. These are very high quality products and are going to cost a pretty penny. I'm recommending them because in your other thread, you mention you want high quality and US made. If you want some thing more commercially made, try Nightforce.

For number 2, look at APA rings. These rings have a claim of returning back to your original zero. Meaning, if you take your rings off, so long as you put them back on the same exact spot on the rail, your zero will not have changed.

And yes, I recommend getting a 20 MOA canted base even though it'll be your hunting rifle. It does not hurt to have it and you will still be able to zero at 100 without a problem...

 

[Naaman]

I see another vote for Near MFG. That's good. As for the price, they are basically the same as what I paid for the Trijicon rail, so it's all good.

 

[GBMaryland]

Richard Near.... did my custom M70 Safari Grade Magnum rail with the wacky hole spacing.

(rifle is gone but I still kept the base because it took me a year and a half to find one… Even Seekins hosed me on the promised rail for that rifle... waited 3/4 of a year, called him a few times, and one day I just got my money refunded on the credit card with no explanation for why he dropped the ball... and it’s not like I was calling him all the time bugging him for it.)

i’ll post a picture of the near rail... its fantastic...

 

[moosemeat]

You have a short action if its newer production.
Near. Done.

 

[GBMaryland]

Example of Richard Nears work and designs

Now if you take a look at the bottom you’ll notice that it has a relief cuts so they can work on either left or right handed firearm...

And that there is a recoil lug for the base To keep to keep the scope from moving the base in any capacity...

 

[Naaman]

Example of Richard Nears work and designs

View attachment 7372069View attachment 7372070View attachment 7372071

Now if you take a look at the bottom you’ll notice that it has a relief cuts so they can work on either left or right handed firearm...

And that there is a recoil lug for the base To keep to keep the scope from moving the base in any capacity...

View attachment 7372074View attachment 7372075View attachment 7372076

Wow, that's nice! Thanks for posting that.

I'm waiting on a rail from Terry Cross for evaluation. If it doesn't fit, I'll definitely be looking at Near mfg.

 

[Naaman]

And we are finally in business. Went with the Nightforce mount offered to me by TerryCross.

I used a video by Ryan Cleckner to make sure I'd mounted the scope straight.

A possible variation occured to me on how to mount a scope if you can't be sure the rifle is perfectly straight (not what I did here).

How does this sound:
Install scope onto the rifle and test fit for eye relief, mark the rail/rings for scope placement for proper eye relief. Then, remove the rings/scope, and remove the rail from the rifle. Install the rings with scope onto the rail and place on a known flat surface. Use a level to get the scope perfectly straight in the rings, and tighten the screws. Then, remove the rings with scope, install the rail back on the rifle and place the rings/scope in the marked position.