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Moly coated or non??
- Thread starter CK_32
- Start date
Re: Moly coated or non??
I could just Google it but Im too lazy right now.. Whats the perk/what is molly coated bullets?? I know they supposedly save barrel life and come out smoother but what are all the perks and what makes it molly coated?
I could just Google it but Im too lazy right now.. Whats the perk/what is molly coated bullets?? I know they supposedly save barrel life and come out smoother but what are all the perks and what makes it molly coated?
Re: Moly coated or non??
Molly is a lube they use to coat the bullets. If you've been loading regular jacketed bullets back your charge some and work up cause molly will come out a bit slower and may cause more pressure if you're loading max. It reduces fouling too. I made a mistake of shooting molly coated bullets then shot regular jacketed bullets. You gotta scrub your barrel before switching. Kind of a pain in the butt.
Molly is a lube they use to coat the bullets. If you've been loading regular jacketed bullets back your charge some and work up cause molly will come out a bit slower and may cause more pressure if you're loading max. It reduces fouling too. I made a mistake of shooting molly coated bullets then shot regular jacketed bullets. You gotta scrub your barrel before switching. Kind of a pain in the butt.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Up to a point I use soft cast bullets.
Up to a point I use hard cast bullets.
Up to a point I use hard cast bullets with gas checks.
Up to 2600 fps, I use jacketed bullets.
Up to 3600 fps, I use jacketed bullets coated with moly.
Up to a point I use soft cast bullets.
Up to a point I use hard cast bullets.
Up to a point I use hard cast bullets with gas checks.
Up to 2600 fps, I use jacketed bullets.
Up to 3600 fps, I use jacketed bullets coated with moly.
Re: Moly coated or non??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fastgixxerlv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Molly is a lube they use to coat the bullets. If you've been loading regular jacketed bullets back your charge some and work up cause molly will come out a bit slower and may cause more pressure if you're loading max. It reduces fouling too. I made a mistake of shooting molly coated bullets then shot regular jacketed bullets. You gotta scrub your barrel before switching. Kind of a pain in the butt. </div></div>
Yes and no.
Moly reduces fiction, allowing the bullet to move easier through the barrel, decreasing pressure. This allows you to increase the powder charge and gain a few fps at the same pressures as the slower non coated bullets.
That’s it in a nut shell.
I used moly for years with no ill effects, but recently switched to HBn which does the same thing with out the toxic mess.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fastgixxerlv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Molly is a lube they use to coat the bullets. If you've been loading regular jacketed bullets back your charge some and work up cause molly will come out a bit slower and may cause more pressure if you're loading max. It reduces fouling too. I made a mistake of shooting molly coated bullets then shot regular jacketed bullets. You gotta scrub your barrel before switching. Kind of a pain in the butt. </div></div>
Yes and no.
Moly reduces fiction, allowing the bullet to move easier through the barrel, decreasing pressure. This allows you to increase the powder charge and gain a few fps at the same pressures as the slower non coated bullets.
That’s it in a nut shell.
I used moly for years with no ill effects, but recently switched to HBn which does the same thing with out the toxic mess.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Where do you guys get the HBn? They've just recently used this on bullets right? Can it be applied the same as moly? I'm using a tumbler. Moly does suck! If it gets combined with moisture, some type of chemical reaction happens that can erode the barrel. The boron nitride cannot combine with moisture right? And it should go on clear?
Where do you guys get the HBn? They've just recently used this on bullets right? Can it be applied the same as moly? I'm using a tumbler. Moly does suck! If it gets combined with moisture, some type of chemical reaction happens that can erode the barrel. The boron nitride cannot combine with moisture right? And it should go on clear?
Re: Moly coated or non??
I bought mine from a hide member here in the for sale section, but if you do a search for HBn or boron nitride within the last 18 months it was talked about quite a bit. If I find it I will pass it on.
I bought mine from a hide member here in the for sale section, but if you do a search for HBn or boron nitride within the last 18 months it was talked about quite a bit. If I find it I will pass it on.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Yes you can apply with a tumbler. Here is an article from 6mmbr about applying coatings.
http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html
Yes you can apply with a tumbler. Here is an article from 6mmbr about applying coatings.
http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html
Re: Moly coated or non??
Oh so you can put bullets in a tumbler?? I always thought it was just for casings.. But what you guys are saying is coated bullets = faster FPS with less powder and = less cleaning after????
And your also saying I can just buy the 175g SMK and coat this stuff on my own correct?
Cause I've always used the Winchester FMJ 145g for the brass and this is my first time reloading..
Oh so you can put bullets in a tumbler?? I always thought it was just for casings.. But what you guys are saying is coated bullets = faster FPS with less powder and = less cleaning after????
And your also saying I can just buy the 175g SMK and coat this stuff on my own correct?
Cause I've always used the Winchester FMJ 145g for the brass and this is my first time reloading..
Re: Moly coated or non??
HbN(Hexagon Boron Nitride) does everything better than Moly, with none of its negatives, if I ever start coating bullets again it wil be with HbN, as of now its naked only for me.
http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html
HbN(Hexagon Boron Nitride) does everything better than Moly, with none of its negatives, if I ever start coating bullets again it wil be with HbN, as of now its naked only for me.
http://www.6mmbr.com/bulletcoating.html
Re: Moly coated or non??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fastgixxerlv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where do you guys get the HBn? They've just recently used this on bullets right? Can it be applied the same as moly? I'm using a tumbler. Moly does suck! If it gets combined with moisture, some type of chemical reaction happens that can erode the barrel. The boron nitride cannot combine with moisture right? And it should go on clear? </div></div>
The SH member that sells HBN is 1917,send him a PM,it is $20 for enough to coat 8000 bullets depending on size.It DOES pick up moisture so store it in a dry place,bullets take on a satin sheen,I use a dedicated Frankford Arsenal small tumbler for larger bullets,add BB's to impact coat them.Small bullets,I put in a large pill jar(flexible plastic)with HBN and BB's then put it in the tumbler.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fastgixxerlv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where do you guys get the HBn? They've just recently used this on bullets right? Can it be applied the same as moly? I'm using a tumbler. Moly does suck! If it gets combined with moisture, some type of chemical reaction happens that can erode the barrel. The boron nitride cannot combine with moisture right? And it should go on clear? </div></div>
The SH member that sells HBN is 1917,send him a PM,it is $20 for enough to coat 8000 bullets depending on size.It DOES pick up moisture so store it in a dry place,bullets take on a satin sheen,I use a dedicated Frankford Arsenal small tumbler for larger bullets,add BB's to impact coat them.Small bullets,I put in a large pill jar(flexible plastic)with HBN and BB's then put it in the tumbler.
Re: Moly coated or non??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oh so you can put bullets in a tumbler?? I always thought it was just for casings..<span style="color: #FF0000"> But what you guys are saying is coated bullets = faster FPS with less powder and = less cleaning after????</span>
And your also saying I can just buy the 175g SMK and coat this stuff on my own correct?
Cause I've always used the Winchester FMJ 145g for the brass and this is my first time reloading.. </div></div>
<span style="color: #FF0000">Yes and no!!</span>
MORE powder at the same pressure=maybe more velocity.
Less cleaning if you only EVER want to shoot moly bullets, but if you want to go to different types of bullet without coating, then it's a bastard of a cleaning job.
Your choice!
Secondly;
You either need a dedicated tumbler <span style="font-style: italic">JUST</span> for molly, OR you can get a couple of screw top tupperware pots, and pack them with boolits 'an molly and then wap it in the tumbler for about an hour.
Or,
You could not bother.
I'm moving away from molly myself, having gone through the hassle of coating my bullets.
My mate Dodger is the top 1000yd F-class shooter in the UK right now (That might change next week, but right now.....) and he is NOT using ANY coating on his bullets.
The feeling in 1000yd benchrest/F-class in the UK at the moment is that there is no benefit from moly coating. So as there appears to be no benefit, why do it??
Up to you, but there is a lot on the hide on this subject. Refine your Search-Fu.
Neil
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Oh so you can put bullets in a tumbler?? I always thought it was just for casings..<span style="color: #FF0000"> But what you guys are saying is coated bullets = faster FPS with less powder and = less cleaning after????</span>
And your also saying I can just buy the 175g SMK and coat this stuff on my own correct?
Cause I've always used the Winchester FMJ 145g for the brass and this is my first time reloading.. </div></div>
<span style="color: #FF0000">Yes and no!!</span>
MORE powder at the same pressure=maybe more velocity.
Less cleaning if you only EVER want to shoot moly bullets, but if you want to go to different types of bullet without coating, then it's a bastard of a cleaning job.
Your choice!
Secondly;
You either need a dedicated tumbler <span style="font-style: italic">JUST</span> for molly, OR you can get a couple of screw top tupperware pots, and pack them with boolits 'an molly and then wap it in the tumbler for about an hour.
Or,
You could not bother.
I'm moving away from molly myself, having gone through the hassle of coating my bullets.
My mate Dodger is the top 1000yd F-class shooter in the UK right now (That might change next week, but right now.....) and he is NOT using ANY coating on his bullets.
The feeling in 1000yd benchrest/F-class in the UK at the moment is that there is no benefit from moly coating. So as there appears to be no benefit, why do it??
Up to you, but there is a lot on the hide on this subject. Refine your Search-Fu.
Neil
Re: Moly coated or non??
Yea this just seems like a little extra hassle for not a lot of outcome.
thanks a lot brother you guys have been much help.
But it doesn't improve accuracy much or at all either I'm taking it?
Pretty much it just seems to help the barrel live longer and help with cleaning correct me if I'm wrong.
Yea this just seems like a little extra hassle for not a lot of outcome.
thanks a lot brother you guys have been much help.
But it doesn't improve accuracy much or at all either I'm taking it?
Pretty much it just seems to help the barrel live longer and help with cleaning correct me if I'm wrong.
Re: Moly coated or non??
When you shoot <span style="text-decoration: underline">enough</span> coated bullets (or pre-condition the barrel), you'll have a <span style="text-decoration: underline">conditioned</span> barrel. Those two together have four benefits.
1) They reduce the difference in PoI of your cold bore shot.
2) They reduce barrel walk.
3) They increase the cleaning interval. PD shooters in the northern plains states shoot hundreds of coated rounds between cleanings, and still manage to hit plains rats at 400 yards.
3.b) Copper fouling greatly reduced ...like 95% reduced.
4) Shooting coated bullets reduces chamber pressure 4-6 times more than it reduces MV, meaning the same charge will produce <span style="font-style: italic">almost</span> the same MV with much lower pressures. Or you can bump the charge to equal the non-coated pressure and your coated bullets wull exceed the MV of the naked bullets.
This is purely personal opinion. Moly is old news. It was replaced by DanZac, AKA WS2, AKA tungsten disulfide. WS2 was superseded by hexagonal boron nitride, AKA hBN. hBN has all the assets of the previous two and fewer of their drawbacks. In another three months, they'll probably have come up with something better than hBN. Right now, hBN is King Shiznit.
If you're not shooting lots and lots and <span style="font-style: italic">lots</span> of rounds in a single session and expecting PoI not to change or accuracy not to diminish, there's really no point to coating your bullets, regardless of whether you're using moly, WS2 or hBN.
Hundreds of prairie dogs a day: good stuff, Maynard. Long Range Interdiction: no point.
IMHO, this is the best deal on the planet for material for coating bullets. They're a commercial lubricants company selling hBN to prospective commercial clients. They'll sell to shlubs like me and you but they still fill out the ISO 9000 paperwork like we were a commercial interest. Get it now before they figure out what a goof they've made.
$49 +shipping gets you and three of your reloading-crazy friends a lifetime's supply of hBN powder.
When you shoot <span style="text-decoration: underline">enough</span> coated bullets (or pre-condition the barrel), you'll have a <span style="text-decoration: underline">conditioned</span> barrel. Those two together have four benefits.
1) They reduce the difference in PoI of your cold bore shot.
2) They reduce barrel walk.
3) They increase the cleaning interval. PD shooters in the northern plains states shoot hundreds of coated rounds between cleanings, and still manage to hit plains rats at 400 yards.
3.b) Copper fouling greatly reduced ...like 95% reduced.
4) Shooting coated bullets reduces chamber pressure 4-6 times more than it reduces MV, meaning the same charge will produce <span style="font-style: italic">almost</span> the same MV with much lower pressures. Or you can bump the charge to equal the non-coated pressure and your coated bullets wull exceed the MV of the naked bullets.
This is purely personal opinion. Moly is old news. It was replaced by DanZac, AKA WS2, AKA tungsten disulfide. WS2 was superseded by hexagonal boron nitride, AKA hBN. hBN has all the assets of the previous two and fewer of their drawbacks. In another three months, they'll probably have come up with something better than hBN. Right now, hBN is King Shiznit.
If you're not shooting lots and lots and <span style="font-style: italic">lots</span> of rounds in a single session and expecting PoI not to change or accuracy not to diminish, there's really no point to coating your bullets, regardless of whether you're using moly, WS2 or hBN.
Hundreds of prairie dogs a day: good stuff, Maynard. Long Range Interdiction: no point.
IMHO, this is the best deal on the planet for material for coating bullets. They're a commercial lubricants company selling hBN to prospective commercial clients. They'll sell to shlubs like me and you but they still fill out the ISO 9000 paperwork like we were a commercial interest. Get it now before they figure out what a goof they've made.
$49 +shipping gets you and three of your reloading-crazy friends a lifetime's supply of hBN powder.
Re: Moly coated or non??
I Googled HxBN and found a lube place in Canada...they sell other grades, specifically a finer particle size. 0.5 micron, and 70 nanometer. The .5 micron seems to be the most popular. A bit more expensive than the bigger stuff. Runs a bit less than $100 per pound delivered. As Dobbs says...four lifetimes of supply. Coat the cleaned barrel and then fire away. 3 or 400 rounds and I feel guilty and clean the barrel with copper solvent. Almost no color. Put the bullets with a teaspoon full (for the first time...to condition the peanut butter jar. Less than that each time thereafter. No BB's necessary. Tumble for a hour or so. Impact plating is what it is called. Dump them out on an old towel and tumble back and forth for a few dozen strokes. Done. JMHO
I Googled HxBN and found a lube place in Canada...they sell other grades, specifically a finer particle size. 0.5 micron, and 70 nanometer. The .5 micron seems to be the most popular. A bit more expensive than the bigger stuff. Runs a bit less than $100 per pound delivered. As Dobbs says...four lifetimes of supply. Coat the cleaned barrel and then fire away. 3 or 400 rounds and I feel guilty and clean the barrel with copper solvent. Almost no color. Put the bullets with a teaspoon full (for the first time...to condition the peanut butter jar. Less than that each time thereafter. No BB's necessary. Tumble for a hour or so. Impact plating is what it is called. Dump them out on an old towel and tumble back and forth for a few dozen strokes. Done. JMHO
Re: Moly coated or non??
Mmmmmm might have to invest in some HBN
Anyone know the effects if any of shooting HBN coated projectiles thru a molly coated (Smooth Kote) barrel?
Mmmmmm might have to invest in some HBN
Anyone know the effects if any of shooting HBN coated projectiles thru a molly coated (Smooth Kote) barrel?
Re: Moly coated or non??
Sorry guys, I have some questions I could not find.
To prep the barrel, Just burnish the clean bore with dry mop and hBN?
Would the addition of alcohol or acetone help with bore prep?
Does the application of hBN need to be reapplied after cleaning.
I have always ran a moist patch of Hoppies down my barrel before
storage, Does this interfere with hBN in any way??
Thanks
Sorry guys, I have some questions I could not find.
To prep the barrel, Just burnish the clean bore with dry mop and hBN?
Would the addition of alcohol or acetone help with bore prep?
Does the application of hBN need to be reapplied after cleaning.
I have always ran a moist patch of Hoppies down my barrel before
storage, Does this interfere with hBN in any way??
Thanks
Re: Moly coated or non??
Tater i cant comment on the Hbn, but with moly coating the barrel, yes you have to reapply after cleaning
I would assume hbn is the same
Tater i cant comment on the Hbn, but with moly coating the barrel, yes you have to reapply after cleaning
I would assume hbn is the same
Re: Moly coated or non??
Tater,
When I clean the bore of my rifle, which is not often, I run dry patches through till I am sure I removed all cleaning agents. I have a bottle with hbn mixed with rubbing alcohol in it and dip a couple patches in and run those through the bore. I then let it set a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and push through 2 or 3 more clean patches to remove any excess. It is then ready to shoot several more hundred rounds.
Tater,
When I clean the bore of my rifle, which is not often, I run dry patches through till I am sure I removed all cleaning agents. I have a bottle with hbn mixed with rubbing alcohol in it and dip a couple patches in and run those through the bore. I then let it set a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and push through 2 or 3 more clean patches to remove any excess. It is then ready to shoot several more hundred rounds.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Sounds like its the same process for moly coating then.
Im pretty sure the Smooth Kote product is just moly in rubbing alcohol.
Sounds like its the same process for moly coating then.
Im pretty sure the Smooth Kote product is just moly in rubbing alcohol.
Re: Moly coated or non??
My 10 years of moly coating in 3 dozen of my rifles, the Reader's Digest version:
Technique:
a) Buy factory moly coated bullets, have Russ Hayden coat them, or vibrate coat them yourself.
Don't use the moly spray can, the carrier causes brain damage.
b) Clean all the Copper out of the barrel, then coat the bore with Lyman moly bore cream, and burnish [rub] it in. It takes one fouling shot to blast the cream out of the bore. The next 5 shots should be a very good group. Only shoot moly coated bullets.
c) Moly coated bullets and moly burnished barrels can still result in some Copper fouling after enough high velocity shots. Try to keep it under 3600 fps. Flitz and your Copper solvent followed by Flitz and Kroil will get out the Copper fast, in strips.
d) Lead tipped bullets can cause Lead contamination in the vibrator. The bowl and media may need to be discarded. Stick with hollow point or plastic tipped bullets.
If your gear is contaminated and need to moly coat bullets for a hunting trip, put a few bullets in a glass pill bottle, tape up the opening, and vibrate the bottle.
Perspective:
a) Moly does not work in really bad barrels, because the bore roughness scratches through the moly, down into the Copper. Moly is not really necessary in really good barrels, that is why only half the bench rest guys use it.
Moly is not really necessary at low velocity. 17HMR is just Copper jacketed without moly, and at 2600 fps, it shoots a long time without Copper fouling.
b) If all your accurate rifles use moly, then you will associate moly with accuracy.
There are lots of accurate rifles out there with no moly, they just clean out the Copper fouling more often.
Moly or not moly is not as important a question as factory lapped or not factory lapped barrel.
My 10 years of moly coating in 3 dozen of my rifles, the Reader's Digest version:
Technique:
a) Buy factory moly coated bullets, have Russ Hayden coat them, or vibrate coat them yourself.
Don't use the moly spray can, the carrier causes brain damage.
b) Clean all the Copper out of the barrel, then coat the bore with Lyman moly bore cream, and burnish [rub] it in. It takes one fouling shot to blast the cream out of the bore. The next 5 shots should be a very good group. Only shoot moly coated bullets.
c) Moly coated bullets and moly burnished barrels can still result in some Copper fouling after enough high velocity shots. Try to keep it under 3600 fps. Flitz and your Copper solvent followed by Flitz and Kroil will get out the Copper fast, in strips.
d) Lead tipped bullets can cause Lead contamination in the vibrator. The bowl and media may need to be discarded. Stick with hollow point or plastic tipped bullets.
If your gear is contaminated and need to moly coat bullets for a hunting trip, put a few bullets in a glass pill bottle, tape up the opening, and vibrate the bottle.
Perspective:
a) Moly does not work in really bad barrels, because the bore roughness scratches through the moly, down into the Copper. Moly is not really necessary in really good barrels, that is why only half the bench rest guys use it.
Moly is not really necessary at low velocity. 17HMR is just Copper jacketed without moly, and at 2600 fps, it shoots a long time without Copper fouling.
b) If all your accurate rifles use moly, then you will associate moly with accuracy.
There are lots of accurate rifles out there with no moly, they just clean out the Copper fouling more often.
Moly or not moly is not as important a question as factory lapped or not factory lapped barrel.
Re: Moly coated or non??
If all your accurate rifles use moly, then you will associate moly with accuracy. There are lots of accurate rifles out there with no moly, they just clean out the Copper fouling more often.
Quoting Clark
You and I are on the same page. I tried moly years ago when everyone was gaga over it. It neither aided nor impeded accuracy.
If all your accurate rifles use moly, then you will associate moly with accuracy. There are lots of accurate rifles out there with no moly, they just clean out the Copper fouling more often.
Quoting Clark
You and I are on the same page. I tried moly years ago when everyone was gaga over it. It neither aided nor impeded accuracy.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Niles,
Yes, It sounds much like the same regiment I use with molly.
I was worried that it might strip from the bore easier than molly, resulting in
the first few shots showing Higher pressure until it got reestablished.
Thanks
Tater
Niles,
Yes, It sounds much like the same regiment I use with molly.
I was worried that it might strip from the bore easier than molly, resulting in
the first few shots showing Higher pressure until it got reestablished.
Thanks
Tater
Re: Moly coated or non??
I pretreat the bore using hBN powder and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol on a cotton mop. The barrel needs to be clean and bone dry before treating it. You can sub Lock-Ease liquid graphite for the hBH but the boron-alky mix shoots more consistently the first 20 or so rounds.
I bought my hBN from Industrial Supply. They sell 1 lb. for about half the price of Lower Friction. They're an industrial chemical company selling samples at a discount to prospective buyers. They even fill out ISO 9000 paperwork on the sale so it's probably best you don't offer that you're just a reloader and not the chief buyer from TRW.
I pretreat the bore using hBN powder and 91% rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol on a cotton mop. The barrel needs to be clean and bone dry before treating it. You can sub Lock-Ease liquid graphite for the hBH but the boron-alky mix shoots more consistently the first 20 or so rounds.
I bought my hBN from Industrial Supply. They sell 1 lb. for about half the price of Lower Friction. They're an industrial chemical company selling samples at a discount to prospective buyers. They even fill out ISO 9000 paperwork on the sale so it's probably best you don't offer that you're just a reloader and not the chief buyer from TRW.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Thanks guys, Sorry for High-jack'en this thread.
I will be doing my first batch tonight.
Now, I have to find that box of 12 gage No.7 steel shot.
They cover more surface area than .177 BBs.
Thanks guys, Sorry for High-jack'en this thread.
I will be doing my first batch tonight.
Now, I have to find that box of 12 gage No.7 steel shot.
They cover more surface area than .177 BBs.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Tater, you only need the BBs if you're using a vibrating tumbler. If you have a rotary stumbler, you can skip them at no cost to the process. If you <span style="text-decoration: underline">do</span> have a vibrating tumbler and you use steel shot, you can use a magnet to separate them from the bullets after coating.
Tater, you only need the BBs if you're using a vibrating tumbler. If you have a rotary stumbler, you can skip them at no cost to the process. If you <span style="text-decoration: underline">do</span> have a vibrating tumbler and you use steel shot, you can use a magnet to separate them from the bullets after coating.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Thanks my friend, Yes, I use a vibrating tumbler. The small steel shot
cover more surface area on the bullets and seem to plate much faster,
at least with molly it’s faster. Then I just put the Magnet on the bottom
of the jar and give it a few swirls. All the shot is held in place and retains
much of the free molly. Then I simply pour the bullets out... I hope the hBN
Will work in the same manner. We will see.
Again, thanks
Tater
Thanks my friend, Yes, I use a vibrating tumbler. The small steel shot
cover more surface area on the bullets and seem to plate much faster,
at least with molly it’s faster. Then I just put the Magnet on the bottom
of the jar and give it a few swirls. All the shot is held in place and retains
much of the free molly. Then I simply pour the bullets out... I hope the hBN
Will work in the same manner. We will see.
Again, thanks
Tater
Re: Moly coated or non??
hBN applies exactly the same as moly except you don't need the carnuba wax and spills aren't so disastrous (because it's white).
hBN applies exactly the same as moly except you don't need the carnuba wax and spills aren't so disastrous (because it's white).
Re: Moly coated or non??
Fred,
HA!! I was going to ask about the carnauba. As luck
Would have it, I held off.
I did get a distinct ammonia smell when I opened my bottle
Though, the projectiles looked nice and frosty.
I guess there was some moisture left in the hollow points.
I have rewashed all of my components with
denatured alcohol and will start a new batch tonight.
Fred,
HA!! I was going to ask about the carnauba. As luck
Would have it, I held off.
I did get a distinct ammonia smell when I opened my bottle
Though, the projectiles looked nice and frosty.
I guess there was some moisture left in the hollow points.
I have rewashed all of my components with
denatured alcohol and will start a new batch tonight.
Re: Moly coated or non??
Moly is a dry lube you have to add.
Graphite is a dry lube you get whether you want it or not, it's the primary component of powder kernel coatings, and is the primary constituent of 'carbon' fouling.
Personally, I consider the effects of graphite to be complex enough without mixing in the added complication inherent in moly.
Greg
Moly is a dry lube you have to add.
Graphite is a dry lube you get whether you want it or not, it's the primary component of powder kernel coatings, and is the primary constituent of 'carbon' fouling.
Personally, I consider the effects of graphite to be complex enough without mixing in the added complication inherent in moly.
Greg
Re: Moly coated or non??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I probably go through 100 rounds in a month. About 50 rounds a trip. That enough to worry about? </div></div>
Do you need to clean your bore before the end of a typical shooting session in order to maintain your expected level of accuracy? Do you find that a major nuisance? Do you find you PoI shifting as the session progresses and your barrel heats up? (AKA "barrel walk")
Unless you answered "Yes" to one or more of those questions, IMHO, bullet coating probably won't be worth the extra trouble and expense. For one thing, you if you run out of coated bullets, until you can clean the bore, you're not going to get optimum results from nekkid bullets.
Coated bullets and a "conditioned" barrel also will lessen your CBS's shift in PoI but so will running a patch through the bore wetted with a little Lock-Ease. In fact, many competition shooters use it for that very reason.
I started out coating .204 Ruger for varmints and .243 WSSM for deer and yotes. I since have discovered that I don't shoot the .243 enough in a session to justify the extra hassle, so I stopped using it even though that means I had to do load development again. Coated bullets are so much slicker, they take less pressure to expel from the barrel. Since there's less chamber pressure (typically, 2-3000 psi less), there's also less MV so your most accurate charge probably is going to change.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CK_32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I probably go through 100 rounds in a month. About 50 rounds a trip. That enough to worry about? </div></div>
Do you need to clean your bore before the end of a typical shooting session in order to maintain your expected level of accuracy? Do you find that a major nuisance? Do you find you PoI shifting as the session progresses and your barrel heats up? (AKA "barrel walk")
Unless you answered "Yes" to one or more of those questions, IMHO, bullet coating probably won't be worth the extra trouble and expense. For one thing, you if you run out of coated bullets, until you can clean the bore, you're not going to get optimum results from nekkid bullets.
Coated bullets and a "conditioned" barrel also will lessen your CBS's shift in PoI but so will running a patch through the bore wetted with a little Lock-Ease. In fact, many competition shooters use it for that very reason.
I started out coating .204 Ruger for varmints and .243 WSSM for deer and yotes. I since have discovered that I don't shoot the .243 enough in a session to justify the extra hassle, so I stopped using it even though that means I had to do load development again. Coated bullets are so much slicker, they take less pressure to expel from the barrel. Since there's less chamber pressure (typically, 2-3000 psi less), there's also less MV so your most accurate charge probably is going to change.
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