More consistent sizing?

[mj23polaris]

Forester Coax
Forester FL bushing die
Hornady 6.5 creed flame annealed brass
Hornady 1 shot lube.

Pretty new to reloading, coming up on a year soon of doing it. Wanting to get more consistent sizing when talking shoulder set back. Seems like I can hold brass to .001 tolerance but will sometimes get some that need ran again or are under my set size by .002.

Should I switch lube? That's what I'm thinking, or not worry about a .002 variance in shoulder. You can feel it when running the press sometimes like oh that had no resistance and it's .002 under. I feel like it's a inconsistentcy in lube?

Is it cheap brass? Ive seen it with flame annealed norma brass also.

I don't know if I've seen the difference at the range, and I don't know if I should worry about it. But if I can create more consistency and better ammo I'm willing to make a change.

 

[rdinak]

Use imperial sizing wax. Hornady one shot does not work well with rifle cases. It will result in brass stuck in the sizing die.

 

[Haney]

Are you measuring each piece of brass before and after ?

 

[straightshooter1]

Forester Coax
Forester FL bushing die
Hornady 6.5 creed flame annealed brass
Hornady 1 shot lube.

Pretty new to reloading, coming up on a year soon of doing it. Wanting to get more consistent sizing when talking shoulder set back. Seems like I can hold brass to .001 tolerance but will sometimes get some that need ran again or are under my set size by .002.

Should I switch lube? That's what I'm thinking, or not worry about a .002 variance in shoulder. You can feel it when running the press sometimes like oh that had no resistance and it's .002 under. I feel like it's a inconsistentcy in lube?

Is it cheap brass? Ive seen it with flame annealed norma brass also.

I don't know if I've seen the difference at the range, and I don't know if I should worry about it. But if I can create more consistency and better ammo I'm willing to make a change.

I also use a Co-Ax, but with a Forster non-bushing FL sizing die that's been honed to minimize the amount the neck is reduced, then run a mandrel through the neck to get the neck tension I'm after (this is for both my .308 and 6.5 PRC). I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

I've tried different bushing dies and have not found any that give me the consistency I look for in several ways, to include consistent shoulder bumps. . . .particularly when leaving the expander ball in the die.

For me to get the most consistent results, there's a couple of things I do:

1. When annealing, be sure you're actually getting the annealing you want to reduce spring back and for me to get that I use the "glow method" with my flame annealer.

2. Making sure I have enough lube to get consistent resistance when sizing. The Imperial Sizing Die Wax does the best, and it doesn't take much. Like I still have some left after sizing over 12K rounds.

3. Probably the most important thing for me is the "dwell time". I leave the case in the die for 4-5 seconds before extracting the case from the die. During that time, I'm coating the next case with the lube which is ready after that dwell time.

 

[mj23polaris]

Are you measuring each piece of brass before and after ?

I mean not necessarily measuring all before, I have a known fired size of the brass through my chamber and I'm setting back .002. If I'm gonna load 20-30 to go practice I'll hand check all after sizing, if I'm loading 100+ for a match and practice before I'll spot check after sizing.

 

[DirtDart]

You have to measure all cases in order for all cases to bump .001. If one is short/ long your bump will be inconsistent.

 

[DMP]

Use imperial sizing wax. Hornady one shot does not work well with rifle cases. It will result in brass stuck in the sizing die.

Whidden told me One Shot was all they recommended. I'm glad some one else disagrees with them

 

[mj23polaris]

I also use a Co-Ax, but with a Forster non-bushing FL sizing die that's been honed to minimize the amount the neck is reduced, then run a mandrel through the neck to get the neck tension I'm after (this is for both my .308 and 6.5 PRC). I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

I've tried different bushing dies and have not found any that give me the consistency I look for in several ways, to include consistent shoulder bumps. . . .particularly when leaving the expander ball in the die.

For me to get the most consistent results, there's a couple of things I do:

1. When annealing, be sure you're actually getting the annealing you want to reduce spring back and for me to get that I use the "glow method" with my flame annealer.

2. Making sure I have enough lube to get consistent resistance when sizing. The Imperial Sizing Die Wax does the best, and it doesn't take much. Like I still have some left after sizing over 12K rounds.

3. Probably the most important thing for me is the "dwell time". I leave the case in the die for 4-5 seconds before extracting the case from the die. During that time, I'm coating the next case with the lube which is ready after that dwell time.

I've wondered about the dwell time you talk about. And I don't think I got this brass hot enough when I annealed. It was my first time and I was nervous haha

You have to measure all cases in order for all cases to bump .001. If one is short/ long your bump will be inconsistent.

So your saying measure all.my brass and sort by existing size then size them all accordingly?

I would assume my die would reset them all to the same size no matter what size they where before?

 

[DirtDart]

Mj, yes you must sort prior to sizing if you want sizing to be consistent. I know it is an extra step that most don’t do. Same goes for seating

 

[mj23polaris]

Mj, yes you must sort prior to sizing if you want sizing to be consistent. I know it is an extra step that most don’t do. Same goes for seating

Ok awesome that's for the tip, I'll try it later

 

[straightshooter1]

Ok awesome that's for the tip, I'll try it later

I haven't found it necessary to short to get the consistency. . . once the brass has been fire formed (usually taking 2 firings to get there), AND. . . annealing after every firing.

Just be aware, other things can be at play (e.g. like how an expander ball in the die pulls on the neck as it's extracted).

 

[Baron23]

Hornady one shot does not work well with rifle cases. It will result in brass stuck in the sizing die.

Not in my experience....at all.

 

[LR1845]

Not in my experience....at all.

I have never had an issue with One Shot either.

 

[Maurygold]

.002 is a very acceptable range and you will just see diminished (if any) Returns chasing that. Spring back is also real so you must accept some variance in what is possible. unless your shooting competitive benchers or f class move on from this one and find another area to scrutinize (please not primer seating depth either).

 

[John Glidewell]

The thing with One Shot is you have to make sure you get enough on the case. I do 2 or 3 coats and then wipe the neck shoulder area before running in die so I do not get hydraulic denting on shoulder. Brass is in plastic tube. Healthy spray all over brass and stir / mix brass, then do another coat and stir again. Not enough lube can cause inconsistent sizing. I also do a short dwell at top of stoke, count of 1, 2, 3 then cycle. I get very consistent sizing. I run Whidden dies.

 

[mj23polaris]

.002 is a very acceptable range and you will just see diminished (if any) Returns chasing that. Spring back is also real so you must accept some variance in what is possible. unless your shooting competitive benchers or f class move on from this one and find another area to scrutinize (please not primer seating depth either).

This is my next question to all this does it really matter, I'm getting single digit SD and ES in the teens for almost all.my 6.5 loads.

 

[mj23polaris]

The thing with One Shot is you have to make sure you get enough on the case. I do 2 or 3 coats and then wipe the neck shoulder area before running in die so I do not get hydraulic denting on shoulder. Brass is in plastic tube. Healthy spray all over brass and stir / mix brass, then do another coat and stir again. Not enough lube can cause inconsistent sizing. I also do a short dwell at top of stoke, count of 1, 2, 3 then cycle. I get very consistent sizing. I run Whidden dies.

Also I think is start throwing my brass in a bowl and spraying and rolling then spraying and rolling to getting a better coating vs just spraying them sitting in a reloading block.

 

[Rio Precision Gunworks]

To get consistent sizing down to .001, you'll need to do all of the following:

- Measure each case before and after
- Be very consistent with your lube
- Be very consistent with your press (dwell time, etc)
- Have very consistent brass hardness (spring back and such)
- Use an indicator stand or micrometer and be very consistent with your measurements

Calipers alone have an accuracy of +/- 0.001" so you're already flirting with not being able to measure down to .001 consistently before you even start.

 

[Maurygold]

Also I think is start throwing my brass in a bowl and spraying and rolling then spraying and rolling to getting a better coating vs just spraying them sitting in a reloading block.

f-class John uses a big zip log bag which sounds simple but is probably the way to go with one shot. I use the alpha lube and it is better than the wax by a bit

 

[supercorndogs]

Use imperial sizing wax. Hornady one shot does not work well with rifle cases. It will result in brass stuck in the sizing die.

I always wonder how some people stick em and some load thousands of rounds without sticking cases using one shot.

 

[supercorndogs]

Also I think is start throwing my brass in a bowl and spraying and rolling then spraying and rolling to getting a better coating vs just spraying them sitting in a reloading block.

I have a square Tupperware tub I spray cases in. It's easy to stack them in so I can spray lube inside the necks.

 

[mj23polaris]

I have a square Tupperware tub I spray cases in. It's easy to stack them in so I can spray lube inside the necks.

Good idea I'll swing by my local dollar store and grab one

 

[CheapBasterd]

I always wonder how some people stick em and some load thousands of rounds without sticking cases using one shot.

I've gone through thousands with one shot and havent stuck a case. This stuff dries tacky and in my experience you cant let it dry up and come back to it. I would only do 50 cases at most at a time when using one shot.

I use Imperial for low volume sizing, there is no timing issue there, you stroke one and insert it.

I stopped bothering with "measurements" just kept creeping the die down until I got a piece that let the bolt drop, creeped the die down another iddy bitty titty bit and called it good.

 

[supercorndogs]

I leave one shot to dry. You are supposed to let it dry. I use it to lube hundreds of cases at a time.

 

[CheapBasterd]

I leave one shot to dry. You are supposed to let it dry. I use it to lube hundreds of cases at a time.

Yeah let the alchohol dry before you start sizing like a few minutes per directions. Im talking about an hour or more after spraying it. Its noticeably "tacky".

 

[supercorndogs]

I have left it for hours or days. Same with lanolin. The lube doesn't evaporate.

 

[mj23polaris]

It's only a sample size of 12 bc I'm chasing a seating depth for a 130gr eld in my ar10 but I just tried the put brass in a tub spray and shake a few times then I let the press sit a few sec at top of the stroke and all 12 are with .001 on my digital calipers.



Thanks for the help guys

 

[spife7980]

Good idea I'll swing by my local dollar store and grab one

You don’t have to spend money and make a trip, I use an old cardboard shoe box. It breaks down over time but it also serves as a lube pad that absorbs excess when shook and leaves an even coat. I stand them up in the corner and spray at angle into the necks as well.