More Dillon 550 Primer Issues

[metallurgist]

Looking for some help... Typical Dillon 550 primer feeding problems.

I've looked through some other solutions on the interwebs, but I'm not sure they'll fix what I'm looking at. I've seen the bearing alignment add-ons, and my concern is that they're still going into the same screws that aren't tightened, and my shifts on alignment appear to be coming from the actuating arm. Sometimes the primer holder comes in left, other times right. I've seen the filing down of the inside of the primer tube base, but it's not that it's sticking out. Maybe I'm missing something obvious?

I show some of the issues in more details in the video.

Any of you fixed this before?

 

[Badfinger]

Are you loading military brass?

 

[metallurgist]

Are you loading military brass?

Yes. I'm more concerned with the slide issues because I think I can figure out the brass issues, but just to expand on that for a minute, here's some background on that.

I swaged the brass first and some was coming through okay while the rest was not. So I stopped and reamed out the primer pocket on a trimmer and uniformed them as well. I tested that on about ten rounds that I had trouble with after just swaging, and they worked very well. So I did the rest that way and this is the result currently. They're acting like they're either not lining up straight from the primer cup or (more likely) they're hanging up on the edge of the primer pocket still. My next step on those I'm planning is to see if a light chamfer on the primer pocket will help. I tested that on a few rounds and it seemed to work.

Even if that works out, I'll still be fighting the slide alignment which is why I'm more concerned about that.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I'd start by cleaning your press; it looks like a wear issue that you'd probably find if you actually did some maintenance.

 

[Threadcutter308]

I have a 650 and had a generally similar problem. At 00:21 of your video, it looks like the primer/primer ram is not equidistant between both sides of the shell plate. That was my problem on the 650, which I adjusted out. I've never owned a 550, so I don't know how to do it on the 550. Also, with as many primers as you show that failed to seat, it looks like the swages aren't being completely taken out. You might want to consider purchasing these, they're cheap;

Small and Large Primer Pocket Swage Gage ® Set

Swage Gage Small Primer Pocket Gauge

ballistictools.com

 

[jet_lagged]

Looking at your pile of semi-primed brass, if the primer did not eat easily, then the primer pocket was not fully reamed/swaged, so the primer is bind on the residual crimp on the pocket. So it is a brass issue, not a press issue.

The primer slide should align in the center of the shellplate and the hole in the press. To do that, I normally loosen the screws that are holding the primer "tower" to the press and then move the handle to the prime position. That should allow the primer slide to center itself. Then tighten down the screws. Your screws are too loose.

The bent metal "primer actuator rod"? should move freely slightly in and out of its hinge point on the top of the press. It actually should have a little oil or light grease on that attachment point. So if you cannot move it in a bit without it hitting the press, then it is bent. In reality, the fact that it is moving slightly off-center on the plastic rollers during the primer cycle should not be an issue, as that should not make the primer slide move around sideways (if you have the crews on that part tight)

 

[RLinNH]

I also have an RL550C. I have been having primer issues. The biggest one I am having is the primer not seating deep enough into the brass. So much so that the plate will not turn because the primer is hitting it. I just picked up an RCBS hand primer yesterday...

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I also have an RL550C. I have been having primer issues. The biggest one I am having is the primer not seating deep enough into the brass. So much so that the plate will not turn because the primer is hitting it. I just picked up an RCBS hand primer yesterday...

Is your shell plate adjusted correctly?

 

[Franko]

I also have an RL550C. I have been having primer issues. The biggest one I am having is the primer not seating deep enough into the brass. So much so that the plate will not turn because the primer is hitting it. I just picked up an RCBS hand primer yesterday...

You can adjust the seating depth for your 550. It just takes a file and some patience. Detailed instructions can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/s/fp72h0e4awobo65/6_19_Dillon-Prometheus-Article_v1.2.pdf?dl=0

 

[RLinNH]

Is your shell plate adjusted correctly?

It is installed per the instructions that came with the press. If I turn the hex head bolt that holds the plate down any tighter, the shell plate doesn't turn...

 

[RLinNH]

You can adjust the seating depth for your 550. It just takes a file and some patience. Detailed instructions can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/s/fp72h0e4awobo65/6_19_Dillon-Prometheus-Article_v1.2.pdf?dl=0

What type of sanding paper are you using to sand the bottom of the plate down?

 

[Franko]

What type of sanding paper are you using to sand the bottom of the plate down?

I'm not grinding the plate. I ground down the base of the primer cup and that allowed the primers to be pushed deeper into the primer pocket. Check out the PDF, it does a good job of explaining.

 

[Threadcutter308]

If you haven't done so already, I would suggest calling Dillon. As I said above, there was some kind adjustment to the column of my 650 that allowed me to rotate it so that the primer ram/punch was centered in the shellplate. Once I found it, it was a simple adjustment.

 

[Gustav7]

Ya I second calling Dillon before you do anything .... then I would make sure your primer cup assembly is put together right. When my priming rod wouldn't seat my primers deep enough, I just adjusted the allen key that holds the priming rod in the primer cup. I put the assembly in my vice, and depressed the spring under the primer cup, and then tightened the allen key in the primer bar. That seems to work for me.

Also, the best thing I did for my 550 priming wise, was get the primer bearing from Uniquetek/ebay.

 

[metallurgist]

I did some disassembly and cleaning. Upon reassembly, I stripped the threads on the primer tube holder. Before I stripped it out though, it seemed like it was lining up nicely.

I called Dillon today and they're sending a new unit. They said that there are those helical inserts for threads and it's not actually tapped. I asked about torque specs to keep from repeating my mistake. He said that he spoke with one of their engineers just a few days ago, and he was pretty sure the engineer said 25 in-lbs.

 

[metallurgist]

Looking at your pile of semi-primed brass, if the primer did not eat easily, then the primer pocket was not fully reamed/swaged, so the primer is bind on the residual crimp on the pocket. So it is a brass issue, not a press issue.

The primer slide should align in the center of the shellplate and the hole in the press. To do that, I normally loosen the screws that are holding the primer "tower" to the press and then move the handle to the prime position. That should allow the primer slide to center itself. Then tighten down the screws. Your screws are too loose.

The bent metal "primer actuator rod"? should move freely slightly in and out of its hinge point on the top of the press. It actually should have a little oil or light grease on that attachment point. So if you cannot move it in a bit without it hitting the press, then it is bent. In reality, the fact that it is moving slightly off-center on the plastic rollers during the primer cycle should not be an issue, as that should not make the primer slide move around sideways (if you have the crews on that part tight)

Yeah, so it's definitely a combination of both. It seems like about 15% of them aren't able to seat the primer. But about 95% of the time I'm having to fidget with the alignment fully up into the hole before I get a chance at seating the primer.

Hopefully once the new part arrives, I'll get this back together and take a fresh look. I'll definitely still have to do some further work on the brass still, too.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Yeah, so it's definitely a combination of both. It seems like about 15% of them aren't able to seat the primer. But about 95% of the time I'm having to fidget with the alignment fully up into the hole before I get a chance at seating the primer.

Hopefully once the new part arrives, I'll get this back together and take a fresh look. I'll definitely still have to do some further work on the brass still, too.

Dunno if you are aware of it, but Dillon does offer a cleaning/overhaul service. It's kind of an "invisible menu/In 'n Out Burger/Animal Style" kind of a deal. I sent my 650 back to them for the service. It was like $85, $90 or $100 bucks, including return shipping. The thing came back looking brand new. It was a borderline screaming deal and came back with a bunch of new parts too. You may want to check into that.

 

[Gustav7]

Dunno if you are aware of it, but Dillon does offer a cleaning/overhaul service. It's kind of an "invisible menu/In 'n Out Burger/Animal Style" kind of a deal. I sent my 650 back to them for the service. It was like $85, $90 or $100 bucks, including return shipping. The thing came back looking brand new. It was a borderline screaming deal and came back with a bunch of new parts too. You may want to check into that.

Did not know this existed lol. I've spent hours cleaning and fiddling with my 550 that I bought from some dudes garage, until I finally got it all humming good. Good to know though.

 

[RLinNH]

Ya I second calling Dillon before you do anything .... then I would make sure your primer cup assembly is put together right. When my priming rod wouldn't seat my primers deep enough, I just adjusted the allen key that holds the priming rod in the primer cup. I put the assembly in my vice, and depressed the spring under the primer cup, and then tightened the allen key in the primer bar. That seems to work for me.

Also, the best thing I did for my 550 priming wise, was get the primer bearing from Uniquetek/ebay.

That bearing plate. That's the black "spacer" that goes underneath the primer tube assembly, yes? I just ordered one of the Uniquetek ones directly from them. Also, I will be taking another closer look at the priming assembly this evening.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

I'd start by cleaning your press; it looks like a wear issue that you'd probably find if you actually did some maintenance.

This and worn out plastic tips on primer feeds tubes. When those reach a certain level of worn, you end up with endless primer problems.

also, any crimp left in brass will mess you up. Best to use cutter then swager to get rid of any crimp leftovers in military brass.

Sirhr

 

[Gustav7]

That bearing plate. That's the black "spacer" that goes underneath the primer tube assembly, yes? I just ordered one of the Uniquetek ones directly from them. Also, I will be taking another closer look at the priming assembly this evening.

yes but you won't be using the black spacer once you get the kit from Uniquetek. All of my alignment issues went away once I had that. However it won’t correct improper setup. So when you go to install the kit, take your time and get it back together properly. I use a little graphite dust to lubricate the components.

and I’m not positive in the reassembly procedure, but i always locked all my bolts down with the primer cup set in the shell plate, so the cranking doesn’t move it

 

[SnowMan]

This is for a 550. Not sure if this is relevant, but I thought I would throw it in. Dillion sells an "Alignment Fixture", basically a pin that goes from the toolhead to the primer hole as an index. It allowed me to perfectly align the toolhead with the ram. Press seemed to run smoother afterwards.

 

[Gustav7]

This is for a 550. Not sure if this is relevant, but I thought I would throw it in. Dillion sells an "Alignment Fixture", basically a pin that goes from the toolhead to the primer hole as an index. It allowed me to perfectly align the toolhead with the ram. Press seemed to run smoother afterwards.

1000% this ^^^

Completely forgot about this tool.

 

[C.R. Adams]

the top of that arm that you mentioned to slid out?.............. slide it in further rather than out

 

[karb]

Dillon now sends this alignment tool with presses....I had a primer crushing issue, and called them....they sent me the tool on their dime! Great company

 

[OLD308]

FYI, don’t go buying the alignment too off EBay or the like. Dillon gave me one for free a few months ago. I was calling in an order for more accessories and asked about it. Cool little tool. Haven’t had a need for it yet, but I ice to know it’s there.

 

[RLinNH]

This is for a 550. Not sure if this is relevant, but I thought I would throw it in. Dillion sells an "Alignment Fixture", basically a pin that goes from the toolhead to the primer hole as an index. It allowed me to perfectly align the toolhead with the ram. Press seemed to run smoother afterwards.

My RL550C was purchased about a month ago and it did not come with that tool. I just got off the phone with Dillon Customer service not 20 minutes ago. I am so let down in that company right now. Basically, I was on hold for 40 minutes to have a customer service person tell me that there is nothing wrong with the 550 priming system. Even though I am crushing primers when I load .223. All he did was deflect every question I had for him into another question for me. Everything was my fault and Dillon is the best company on the face of the earth. Fucking Douche Bag for a customer service rep. He also told me that the alignment tool did NOT EXIST!!!

 

[metallurgist]

My RL550C was purchased about a month ago and it did not come with that tool. I just got off the phone with Dillon Customer service not 20 minutes ago. I am so let down in that company right now. Basically, I was on hold for 40 minutes to have a customer service person tell me that there is nothing wrong with the 550 priming system. Even though I am crushing primers when I load .223. All he did was deflect every question I had for him into another question for me. Everything was my fault and Dillon is the best company on the face of the earth. Fucking Douche Bag for a customer service rep. He also told me that the alignment tool did NOT EXIST!!!

That stinks. Sorry to hear that. I had over an hour wait time the other day, but the guy I talked to was very helpful.

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

 

[Threadcutter308]

That stinks. Sorry to hear that. I had over an hour wait time the other day, but the guy I talked to was very helpful.

Do you have any pictures of your setup?

May I suggest that you buy a new box of Lapua .223 brass and try that ?

Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100)

Check out the deal on Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100) at Bruno Shooters Supply

www.brunoshooters.com

Don't do any prep work of any kind to it. Just take them out of the box and try to prime them. Just make sure your primer punch is centered in the shell plate before attempting to prime.

It's entirely possible that you are fighting a brass problem. When I saw so many primers in your pictures that were only partially seated, that tells me that either the crimps are not being completely removed when running the brass through the swaging step, or there is just something fundamentally wrong with the brass.

In reality, the priming process should be (and in reality, is) a simple process with very few moving parts. I'm starting to lean in the direction of you fighting a brass problem.

You're welcome to send me a dozen or two pieces of your existing brass and I can try priming them on my 650, if that's of interest to you.

 

[RLinNH]

May I suggest that you buy a new box of Lapua .223 brass and try that ?

Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100)

Check out the deal on Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100) at Bruno Shooters Supply

www.brunoshooters.com

Don't do any prep work of any kind to it. Just take them out of the box and try to prime them. Just make sure your primer punch is centered in the shell plate before attempting to prime.

It's entirely possible that you are fighting a brass problem. When I saw so many primers in your pictures that were only partially seated, that tells me that either the crimps are not being completely removed when running the brass through the swaging step, or there is just something fundamentally wrong with the brass.

In reality, the priming process should be (and in reality, is) a simple process with very few moving parts. I'm starting to lean in the direction of you fighting a brass problem.

You're welcome to send me a dozen or two pieces of your existing brass and I can try priming them on my 650, if that's of interest to you.

It's actually quite ironic that you ask about that. Just last night I chamferred and deburred 100 new Lapua .223 Cases. I was going to play with my press this evening, but after that call I threw my hands up in the air in disgust. Tomorrow morning I will make sure that the shell plate is installed properly and then hand load some 68gr Hornady BTHP Match bullets into those cases. Looking forward to it And again, thanks for all the replies.

 

[RLinNH]

And brass, the 100 Hornady cases fought me a lot more as far as primer seating than the 25 Winchester cases did last night.

 

[High Desert duck]

Seems like a silly question, but you are using the small primer slider and tube or the large?
I only ask because I have made that mistake before. It behaved much like you are describing.

 

[wvlapua]

Make sure you have the correct primer magazine tube and flexible orifice installed, and that the orifice is in good condition. Small primers in a large tube will flip occasionally.

Adjusting your swager depth deeper should fix the brass issue.

 

[RLinNH]

Seems like a silly question, but you are using the small primer slider and tube or the large?
I only ask because I have made that mistake before. It behaved much like you are describing.

The Dillon Rep asked me the same question. I am going to double check everything here in about an hour and load up those Lapua Cases. Crossing my finers for a trouble free operation...

 

[RLinNH]

May I suggest that you buy a new box of Lapua .223 brass and try that ?

Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100)

Check out the deal on Lapua Brass 223 Rem Match - (100) at Bruno Shooters Supply

www.brunoshooters.com

Don't do any prep work of any kind to it. Just take them out of the box and try to prime them. Just make sure your primer punch is centered in the shell plate before attempting to prime.

It's entirely possible that you are fighting a brass problem. When I saw so many primers in your pictures that were only partially seated, that tells me that either the crimps are not being completely removed when running the brass through the swaging step, or there is just something fundamentally wrong with the brass.

In reality, the priming process should be (and in reality, is) a simple process with very few moving parts. I'm starting to lean in the direction of you fighting a brass problem.

You're welcome to send me a dozen or two pieces of your existing brass and I can try priming them on my 650, if that's of interest to you.

I just got done loading 100 of the Lapua Cases. I had 1 tiny hiccup associated to priming. Nothing like I have been dealing with though. I think the issue is the Hornady Brass coupled with a few other bugs that I have already worked out. Still can't get over how nice the Lapua Brass loaded.

 

[Threadcutter308]

I just got done loading 100 of the Lapua Cases. I had 1 tiny hiccup associated to priming. Nothing like I have been dealing with though. I think the issue is the Hornady Brass coupled with a few other bugs that I have already worked out. Still can't get over how nice the Lapua Brass loaded.

Cool, glad to hear it ! I have one batch of Lapua in .308w that I have been reloading for one of my bolt guns for 20 years. My brass costs ? Almost non-existent.

 

[Cryptic]

Two observations here. First of all, your press looks a lot like mine, which is an early 550 (not "B"). I did not add the powder measure actuator because my machine functions perfectly without it, and I didn't want to disturb the shell plate alignment. The priming difficulties you're having are a lot like the problems I had many years ago, and if so, the new primer assembly should take care of it. The loose mounting screws aren't helping you at all, the whole primer assembly will move back and forth because of the spring tension. The problem I had revolved around my primer slides binding and causing the primer travel to ratchet a bit, and that caused some primers to flip in the cup during travel. As I said, the replacement of the complete priming assy, along with the black metal spacer plate should have cured that issue. The original issue way, way, long ago was caused by zinc plating on the primer slides making them bind.

I originally assumed that you would have aligned the primer slide in the normal manner during installation, but if you're leaving screws loose there is no way you could be doing this. This involves pushing the lever forward to make sure the primer cup is aligned in the hole in the shell plate. You would hold that in until you have both primer assy mounting screws firmly tightened. This way the primer cup has no choice but to be in alignment at the end of its stroke. You need to do this every time you remove the primer assy, of loosen the screws for any reason. As others have mentioned, I don't believe your shell plate is properly aligned either from what I saw in your video. I don't know if you noticed it, but Dillons site has a lot of great videos on maintenance & troubleshooting. Since you only recently bought your machine, I'd recommend doing the 550B cleaning & lube recommendations as outlined in their video.

 

[metallurgist]

I got the new primer tube base from Dillon and installed it. Put everything back together and it seemed like everything was happier.

I did notice that the piece that holds the loaded round bucket that they fall through after the last stage was keeping the primer plunger from an extra 0.010" of travel because the handle was hitting it early. Where it was installed was giving me 0.065" above the bottom surface, and without it there was 0.075". So I adjusted the bucket holder back as far as I could which brought me to 0.071" of plunger height.

While I was waiting, I worked on the brass that I had trouble with. So once I got the press back together, I tried just priming that brass which worked very well with one exception. Overall, I think the combination of all the little things are working to get it fixed.