Most inexpensive way to anneal? Best ultrasonic cleaning solution?

[ChrisBCS]

The more I research the topic, the more I like the idea of annealing and ultrasonic cleaning to remove all carbon deposits. I have an ultrasonic cleaner already; what are the best solutions to use there?

Also, what would be the proper way to anneal .30-06 brass on a shoestring budget? My thinking is a heat crayon to get a smear at 750... Can I use a garden variety butane torch for the hardware store? A cordless drill to keep the case spinning? How do I chuck the case into the cordless most effectively?

Thanks from all those more experienced than I. This forum rules.

Chris

 

[MontanaMarine]

I use a candle.

Holding the case about in the middle between thumb and finger, with the neck at about a 45 degree upward angle. Rotate the case at the neck/shoulder juncture just above the tip of the flame until it's too hot to hold.

If you get the case into the flame it will cool the flame and get sooty. Just above the flame it's clean and hot.

Running the annealed cases through the sizer and bullet seating I can really feel the softness of the brass again.

 

[MontanaMarine]

Here's a more detailed explanation of candling,

Question for John Barnsness re: annealing

 

[BCBRAD]

Take a 3/8ths extension , cut the female end off with a zip cut, chuck it in a 3/8ths or 1/2" drill motor, mount drill in a vice at a 45 degree angle, put a 12mm deep socket on, put a gear clamp over the trigger to adjust speed with a screw driver , insert cartridge into socket, spinning above motor stall speed hold a propane torch at a 45 degree angle from shoulder to case mouth for 8 seconds (say phrase or count numbers that take 8 seconds to do, I count to 13 which takes 8 seconds at my speed, you will be able to pick the case out bare handed but by the time you put on a wetted towel the case head will be uncomfortably warm.

 

[Khavic]

Depending on the drill you can chuck the case right into it, just don't reef on the chuck and mark up your brass. I use a Milwaulkee cordless and spin the brass over a propane torch. open the chuck and drop the brass into a quart jar of water.

I go out to my shop and turn the light off so it's dim and put the flame right at the case / neck junction until it's light red/pink and call it good..

I'm sure there are more scientific ways, but I have 9-10 firings on my brass (LC75 necked to 7-08) and have had 0 necks break.

Good luck!!

 

[MontanaMarine]

Regarding cleaning solutions for the ultrasonic,

Here's a solution I use to clean up old dirty tarnished brass.

Take a 5 gal plastic pail and add,

- 2 gal warm water
- 1/2 cup vinegar
- 2 tablespoons salt
- a big squirt of dishsoap

Stir it up and dump in the brass. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes and stir it all around (I use my hands). Repeat two or three times. Rinse well with fresh water.

This cleans up the brass really nicely, removing all the carbon and tarnish. I like to do it after decapping so the primer pockets get cleaned up too, and it dries faster.

I don't know much about ultrasonics, but the solution I use would likely work great.

 

[ChrisBCS]

Thank you folks and especially MontanaMarine! Outstanding information.

Do you all think case neck polishing and annealing will shrink group size in a factory rifle?

(not that I'm not going to try it for myself anyway...)

 

[Khavic]

Thank you folks and especially MontanaMarine! Outstanding information.

Do you all think case neck polishing and annealing will shrink group size in a factory rifle?

(not that I'm not going to try it for myself anyway...)

Unless your rifle is just hammered and there are cracks in your bolt or something crazy, then anything you can do to make your ammo perform more consistently from one shot to the next will improve your rifle's performance.

That goes for any rifle.

 

[Bob 964]

My cleaning solution mixes 2 tablespoons of anhydrous (powdered) citric acid in 1 gallon of tap water, with a splash of dishwashing detergent (such as Dawn).

1. Fill the ultrasonic cleaner tank with tap water, to 1" below the maximum fill line.
2. Fill a 600ml Pyrex or Kimax laboratory beaker about half-way with cleaning solution.
3. Place the beaker in the tank and allow the cleaning solution to go through 3 or 4 8-minute cycles. This will remove the bubbles from the solution and enhance its cleaning ability.
4. Place 25-30 de-primed cases in the beaker and run for 3 8-minute cycles.
5. 1 8-minute bath using hot tap water.
6. 1 8-minute bath using distilled water.
7. Place cases (mouth up) in a loading block and permit to dry (air dry or hair blow dryer).

Works great for me.

 

[lash]

Here's a more detailed explanation of candling,

Question for John Barnsness re: annealing

Thanks Montana!
This was a great article that probably explains brass annealing better than any other I've read. Plus it points out that successful annealing can be much simpler and less expensive than I'd previously thought.

 

[MontanaMarine]

Thank you folks and especially MontanaMarine! Outstanding information.

Do you all think case neck polishing and annealing will shrink group size in a factory rifle?

(not that I'm not going to try it for myself anyway...)

I don't know about the effect on accuracy, I anneal to preserve brass life (split necks). With brass nearly $1/each, I'll take the time to anneal it efter a few reloads.

 

[ChrisBCS]

Well I gave it a try with 25 raggedy Remington headstamp .30-06 cases that were fired 4-5 times.

I faced/deburred the case mouths with 600 grit sandpaper to get rid of the tiny knicks and dents from abuse/neglect, then I polished the neck, mouth and just inside the case mouth with Mother's and 000 steel wool. Then I wiped it down with a paper towel.

Next I did the candle anneal... attempted to.

First thing I noticed is that it takes about 10-12 seconds fairly consistently. Too long? I'm using a camping/9 hour candle.

Second thing I noticed how good the brass looked afterwards. When I ran it through the collet die, I could actually feel the mouth hit the collet and be moved in toward the mandrel much more easily than before, which meant more consistent resizes. I'm going to go through with calipers to check the ID.

I seated one round as a dummy... glided in WAY smoother than they had been. Not loose, but smooth. Looking at the thing, I can't believe the brass was 5 times fired.

 

[ChrisBCS]

 

[InfScout1/69]

I deprime, then I clean with US cleaner using water, Lemishine, and a couple of drops of dish soap.run for 4 8min cycles and they come out spankin new. Then I size. Once sized I dry tumble to shine them up and clean off the lube.

 

[arnie19]

I have a commercial Ultrasonic cleaner but the brass doesn't come clean with out also tumbling after a 30 to 60 minute run of the ultrasonic .Im wondering if just puting the cleaning solution in a sauce pan and heating just below a boil wouldn't accomplish the same thing .It seems to make the fouling soft and rubs off with a rag so the tumbler does that part .

 

[MontanaMarine]

....First thing I noticed is that it takes about 10-12 seconds fairly consistently. Too long?...

That's about the same time I get. I think you're good.

 

[Jungle George]

My cleaning starts by de-priming the brass. Then I use a Lyman 6000 ultra sonic cleaner. The solution is cheap and easy, in fact I use to wipe my boat down, mop floors, wipe down counters, clean carpet etc. Mix about 4 parts water, 1 part white vinegar, a TBL Dawn, a TBL ammonia, a little salt. I run it about 15 minutes then put it in a large case media separator (I use a Dillon), and spin out most of the water. Then into a tumbler (again I use a Dillon CV2001) with corn cob media and a cap full of Dillon Rapid Case Polish 290 and tumble for about an hour. Cases come out dry and looking like new inside and out.

Cheers,

George

 

[Khavic]

Regarding cleaning solutions for the ultrasonic,

Here's a solution I use to clean up old dirty tarnished brass.

Take a 5 gal plastic pail and add,

- 2 gal warm water
- 1/2 cup vinegar
- 2 tablespoons salt
- a big squirt of dishsoap

Stir it up and dump in the brass. Let it sit for 20-30 minutes and stir it all around (I use my hands). Repeat two or three times. Rinse well with fresh water.

This cleans up the brass really nicely, removing all the carbon and tarnish. I like to do it after decapping so the primer pockets get cleaned up too, and it dries faster.

I don't know much about ultrasonics, but the solution I use would likely work great.

I tried this on a thousand brass yesterday and it worked well. Primer pockets don't look brand new, but they are clean and so is the inside of the brass. I put the brass in corn cob media for a couple hours after it dried and it cleaned up really well. My ultra sonic cleaner is very small and it only fits 20ish brass at a time, not cool when there's 1000 to be done.

Thanks for the recipe MM

 

[ChrisBCS]

So, I had someone tell me that the case does not "appear" properly annealed. My understanding was that color change depended on heat source, brass contamination, and polish (i.e., all factory brass is annealed).

 

[MontanaMarine]

I know a lot of commercially annealed brass has a very visible color line where the heat was applied.

Not much color change with a candle, but the brass is definitely softened, as you could feel for yourself while loading it.

Probably to do with the hotter temperature of commercial methods.

 

[Juma]

Best annealing is the yellow American=Dewalt 18v. Cheapest cleaner[ and surprisingly effective] is powdered citric acid with hot water in 20ltr bucket.