Rifle Scopes Mounts with built in level

LA260

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Minuteman
Apr 14, 2017
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Whats everyones take on mounts with built in levels like Spuhr, RRS etc..? Is it usefull? Can you guys see it without coming off the scope or moving your head? I've never been behind one and when I try to picture it with on my rifles it seems that level will barely be visible if at all.

I have the levels on the scopes on all my rifles but for my next scope I'm thinking about buying Spuhrr or RRS. Or get a badger mount and seperate scope level again.
 
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I've always relied on the "built-in level" in the scope itself called the "reticle". If you can't see a "tilted" reticle when shooting when you know the rifle is "level" how are you ever going to "level" the reticle and scope to begin with regardless of what a "built-in level" in or on some other piece of hardware "says"?
 
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I've always relied on the "built-in level" in the scope itself called the "reticle". If you can't see a "tilted" reticle when shooting when you know the rifle is "level" how are you ever going to "level" the reticle and scope to begin with regardless of what a "built-in level" in or on some other piece of hardware "says"?
"Maybe this" is" why "" you c"an't " hit shit"".
 
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I've always relied on the "built-in level" in the scope itself called the "reticle". If you can't see a "tilted" reticle when shooting when you know the rifle is "level" how are you ever going to "level" the reticle and scope to begin with regardless of what a "built-in level" in or on some other piece of hardware "says"?

It's called a plumb line.

Please tell me you aren't leveling your scope by "eyeballing it."
 
I've always relied on the "built-in level" in the scope itself called the "reticle". If you can't see a "tilted" reticle when shooting when you know the rifle is "level" how are you ever going to "level" the reticle and scope to begin with regardless of what a "built-in level" in or on some other piece of hardware "says"?

After you properly install a scope level you be amazed how often you cant the rifle/scope and not realize it. Sloping terrain, shadows, mirage, leaning targets, trees, etc. will create illusion and effect how you visualize the reticle. At relatively close range I don't bother to look at a scope level because the effect of canting is negligible but at distance it becomes a factor.
 
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It will depend on your mount height, scope ocular bell shape/diameter, and your cheek rest height; that is why some people see them and some people don’t. I like ARC mounts, but I can’t see the level worth a shit with the one I have. I run a 1.5” RRS on my ZP5 and it works like a charm.
 
I have several Spuhr mounts and I really like them for all the features they have, but I'm one of the guys that cant see the level. I wear contacts for distance which means that anything 4-5" in front of my face is blurry... So no level for me.
 
I've tried levels before, and all they have ended up doing is make me second guess myself. Now the only level I thought was the shit was the one inside the scope on my Springfield Armory scope from the 90s. Right there in your field of view, no problem.

Most of the time, if your reticle isn't level when you think it is, we are talking about 1 degree or less
 
Thanks for the replies. It seems like I wont know for sure if the level on the mount will be visible unless I actually get the mount and install it on my rifle.
As far as how usable levels are that's a different thread/discussion. I like them and I'm going to keep putting them on my setups.
 
Have a S&B 5-25 mounted with a Spuhr 4601 and nearly impossible to see the level. Same with 2 chassis with built in levels. Have Accuracy 1st levels mounted on most of my rifles. Easy to see while in position behind the rifle.
 
I've had Spuhr and I've had ARC mounts with levels that are placed at the bottom rear of the mount, for me this is too low to effectively see with my eye without having to break cheekweld; however, a more traditional level that is mounted around the scope tube is place at a position high enough to see without breaking cheekweld. That being said I have been trying to retrain myself to not use a level, but to level the scope to plumb based on my natural hold and allow my vestibular sense to correct, Thomas Haugland put up this video years ago and this subject was discussed on the old Hide (or possibly Scout) in length, I know for some it is difficult to think that we can hold level; however, I think more struggle and mounting the scope level to the rail and then struggling with their natural hold to correct. The evidence is there, it might be worth giving a try - go ahead and keep the level on the scope but find your natural hold and then adjust your scope/reticle to plumb based on your natural hold, then use the level as verification and you might just find that you can find natural level more easily. Those of you who have stocks with adjustable cant don't have to worry too much because you can level your scope to the rail and then you adjust the cant of your stock to your natural hold so that the scope/reticle is plumb when you naturally should the scope and get proper cheek weld.

 
Decided to go with a Badger Unimount and throw a Holland's level on the scope like my other setups. The fact that I got the Badger on sale and both the mount and level came in under $200 didn't hurt either.
 
If you have young eyes, you might be able to shift your focus enough to see a bubble level well.

Test yourself with a piece of paper where the level would be and then look through the scope and then look to the paper. You'll see if it's in your field of view and if your eyes can handle it.

I got a cheapo folding level because it puts the level out to the side quite a bit so I can see it with my left eye and I mounted it as far down my scope tube as I could to make it easier to focus.

If it was back on my rear ring, it would not work for me.

Also, occasionally ergonomics will not allow for the scope rail to be perfectly horizontal so a scope tube mounted level can let you set your level wherever you need.
 
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I use Badger rings than set up a US Optic level for my non dominate eye. I get behind the scope get a good cheek weld than without moving my head look at the level w non dominate eye.