My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

[Rookie]

I recently pimped out my 1022. Here is my setup:

Thumb hole laminate wooden stock,
Volquartsen trigger group, charging handle, polymer recoil buffer,
Kidd bolt,
16 inch Adams & Bennett bull barrel.

Ran great with factory parts. now, I'm lucky to get a mag through it without failure to feed. And forget about high cap mags! I keep the action cleaned and lubed. I have a couple of questions that may be related. I've never read anything about proper torque on barrel screws or action screws. Is it possible I've over torqued something? I am running crappy Remington ammo. Maybe thats the problem.

Lastly, when I place the barreled action into the stock, it seems to bind rather than laying snuggly inside the stock. I'm thinking I need to remove some of the ridge near the end of the stock that supports the barrel.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Oodin]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Try different ammo. I usually start there for my rimfire troubleshooting.

You could also start adding factory parts back in until you find the culprit

and continue your troubleshooting from there.

 

[sniper307]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

your new barrel has a tight match type chamber. do not use cheap lead bullets. you will have to use a copper coated or lubed type bullet. i had the same problem after installing a heavy barrel in mine. after a few thousand rounds it will start to loosen up and then may function reliably with cheaper ammo.

 

[jrhammons]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Rookie I was going to say the exact same thing 307 did. Switch ammo, if its that shitty 550 remington I had tons of problems with it. That A&B should have a math chamber as did mine. The only two ammo I got it to shoot were CCI minimag and FGMM. It did not like eley or Lapua with a damn for some reason so you may want to start there. Also check your springs as you may not be getting a full bolt cycle. If it is binding in the stock you may not get a proper magazine seat either. I would start with ammo and then work backwards as suggested

 

[Rookie]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Thank you gentlemen. Will definately try changing ammo first. What about torque settings on screws?

 

[smokshwn]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Try some Tactical Innovation Mags. They are adjustable so you can tune them to your action/stock combination. Great instructions and all three versions work equally well.

http://www.tacticalinc.com/mags-loaders-...4697ee1271a6294

I found that once I had them tuned I could run whatever ammo I wanted.

 

[hrt4me]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Rookie, what kind of thumbhole laminate wooden stock are you using?

Got any pics of your build?

 

[i_rep]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

You changed it all and are still using the same ole mag. Invest in a couple of new ones. Metal tops and feed lips will last much longer than cheaper plastic ones.



Everytime one of mine has issues, it always boils down to a mag problem. Either the top is splitting, the springs are weak, its dirty. Some sort of mag problem unless the weapon is just extrememly filthy.

 

[blacktailslayer]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Use CCI mini mags. They have lots of power to cycle the action, are good bullets, and usually fairly accurate for a high speed round.For target bullets try Lapua or CCI standard velocity.

 

[The Mechanic]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

If ammo does not cure it than try some steel lip magazines. Usually you can tell if you put a little pressure straight up on the magazine and it then begins to function

 

[wksinatl]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

On one build I had the same problem. I had to relieve some of the wood stock in the magazine well area. Even though the mag seated ok it was in a slight bind....enough to cause problems. Make sure the mag is not rubbing the wood on each side of the mag. A little sand paper worked wonders.

Keith

 

[Rookie]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Thanks KS. I discovered the same problem on mine, especially with high caps. I dremeled the snot out of that area but it has not fixed the problem.

Thanks for the help everyone. I will try better ammo next week and give a report.

 

[AXEMAN]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

i tried 3 or 4 different types of match and target ammo in one of my 10/22s and they all had jams. when i tried the standard and hi velocity non-target or match federal stuff, not bulk, it ran just fine and even grouped better

 

[smokshwn]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

If the magazine is out of alignment due to the new stock, bolt, receiver change etc, it won't matter what material the feed lips are made of.

The beauty of the mags I mentioned above is they allow a simple adjustment to compensate for the different dimensions from 10/22 to 10/22 and all the possible setups in about 2 minutes of adjustment per mag.

Much easier and simpler than purchasing multiple brands/loads of ammo to make the gun run harder or softer.... also much less hassle than grinding on your gun although I do love me a dremel session now and again.

 

[HillbillyfromAL]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Try it without the Polymer recoil buffer, and see if that helps.

 

[PLeighton]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

What kind of jams?

I'm betting "Stove Pipe"...

I run the same barrel and stock package that you describe and had terrible issues with stove pipes when I put everything back together.
If you are using a match grade chamber, alot of times the extractor needs to be tuned to eliminate the stove pipe issues.
(I had the same problem even with a VQ Extractor.)

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251080

The author of this article also sent me an update:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Since writing that article, I've been tuning extractors an easier way.

If the hook shape looks okay, I just clamp the hook in a vise with the rear hook upward, heat the rear lug to dark red, and tap it gently toward the hook.

The amount it's tapped depends on how loosely a casing is held by the hook. There shouldn't be any play and the hook should hold it firmly against the bolt while pushing it against the opposite side of the bolt recess. If it's too short, the hook won't clear the notch. If that happens, grind or hone the forward part of the extractor lug to make it fit properly.

If you don't tap hard enough to shorten the hook to lug space enough the first time, it can be redone several times until you get it right.

The advantage with this simplified method is that the hook never loses temper, so it doesn't need to be re-hardened. Sometimes re-hardening doesn't "take", so this is usually a better method. If the hook shape needs to be bent to better grasp the case rim, the method shown on the website should be used.

Good luck with your project.

Picher
</div></div>

I tuned mine by using a vise to slowly push the tip of the extractor further over without using any heat.
(Flat side on one jaw and round side on the other.)
When done properly, the extractor should hold the cartridge tightly against the bolt face and have minimal play.

This issue drove me nuts until I came across that article.
(I tried three aftermarket extractors and had the same stove piping issues until I tuned it.)

The Extractor tuning works every time and is easy to do.

Instead of looking like this:

Just put the extractor in a vise length wise and compress it until the fit is right.

Then it will look like this:

The reason this works, is by fitting the extractor so that is securely holds the case to the bolt, the ejector will make positive contact with it every time.
Since the extractor is holding one side of the brass, the impact of the ejector on the opposite side results in it being flung at a 45 degree angle out of the ejection port.
When stove piping occurs in a 10/22, the brass travels to the rear with the bolt, but instead of being flung out the ejection port, the ejector just knocks the brass forward because the extractor is not in the properly engaged with the brass.

FWIW,
Since the 10/22 is a blow back action, the extractors only job is to remove un fired cartridges and to perform the function outlined above.
(It extracts nothing during the firing sequence since the brass is what is actuating the bolt.)

*(Images taken from Rimfire Central.)

 

[RS39]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Your short list does not mention sights. If you have a top rail, look to see if the screws reach at all inside the receiver. Flush is great for securing the rail, inside is bad for occasionally rubbing the bolt.

ditto on TI 25 mags

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Try it without the buffer.

 

[thickstrings]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

If your V block screws are to tight , they could be pulling your barrel down. Is there slop in the barrel shank to receiver? Slop in the shank and receiver and over tightened Vblock could pull down your barrel.Barrel, extractor,bolt face at angle. Kidd recomends 10 Inch lbs. I do a little more.Bad receiver fit and to tight of a take down torque and it will bend the barrel up.12 to 30 1n. lbs. on the take down screw...The bump in the front of the stock is sort of holding the barrel up if all else is sloppy.I would bed the receiver and first inch or so of the barrel..lose the Remmington ammo. The A&B carbon fiber barrels are't supposed to be so good, the all steel ones are, don't know which you have...

 

[wksinatl]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Nice post/pics Dr Phil.

thanks,
Keith

 

[hrt4me]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dr. Phil</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What kind of jams?

I'm betting "Stove Pipe"...

I run the same barrel and stock package that you describe and had terrible issues with stove pipes when I put everything back together.
If you are using a match grade chamber, alot of times the extractor needs to be tuned to eliminate the stove pipe issues.
(I had the same problem even with a VQ Extractor.)

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251080

The author of this article also sent me an update:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Since writing that article, I've been tuning extractors an easier way.

If the hook shape looks okay, I just clamp the hook in a vise with the rear hook upward, heat the rear lug to dark red, and tap it gently toward the hook.

The amount it's tapped depends on how loosely a casing is held by the hook. There shouldn't be any play and the hook should hold it firmly against the bolt while pushing it against the opposite side of the bolt recess. If it's too short, the hook won't clear the notch. If that happens, grind or hone the forward part of the extractor lug to make it fit properly.

If you don't tap hard enough to shorten the hook to lug space enough the first time, it can be redone several times until you get it right.

The advantage with this simplified method is that the hook never loses temper, so it doesn't need to be re-hardened. Sometimes re-hardening doesn't "take", so this is usually a better method. If the hook shape needs to be bent to better grasp the case rim, the method shown on the website should be used.

Good luck with your project.

Picher
</div></div>

I tuned mine by using a vise to slowly push the tip of the extractor further over without using any heat.
(Flat side on one jaw and round side on the other.)
When done properly, the extractor should hold the cartridge tightly against the bolt face and have minimal play.

This issue drove me nuts until I came across that article.
(I tried three aftermarket extractors and had the same stove piping issues until I tuned it.)

The Extractor tuning works every time and is easy to do.

Instead of looking like this:

Just put the extractor in a vise length wise and compress it until the fit is right.

Then it will look like this:

The reason this works, is by fitting the extractor so that is securely holds the case to the bolt, the ejector will make positive contact with it every time.
Since the extractor is holding one side of the brass, the impact of the ejector on the opposite side results in it being flung at a 45 degree angle out of the ejection port.
When stove piping occurs in a 10/22, the brass travels to the rear with the bolt, but instead of being flung out the ejection port, the ejector just knocks the brass forward because the extractor is not in the properly engaged with the brass.

FWIW,
Since the 10/22 is a blow back action, the extractors only job is to remove un fired cartridges and to perform the function outlined above.
(It extracts nothing during the firing sequence since the brass is what is actuating the bolt.)

*(Images taken from Rimfire Central.) </div></div>

Thanks for that informative post!

 

[Rookie]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Thanks for all the advice so far. The A&B barrel is steel. If I can get this thing running, I will have the barrel fluted.

Anyway, I checked the sight rail screws and verified that they are not interfering with the bolt. Retorqued the barrel and action screws. My Wheeler FAT wrench only adjusts down to 15 inch pounds which is about finger tight.

Not sure how much tweaking I can do to the extractor since its in the new Kidd bolt. The extractor appears to be better supported below the hook and therefore may not tolerate being bent in. I may try that last if better ammo and the retorquing dont work. Wont get to shoot it again until next week.

My issues seem to be failures to engage and failures to fire. Stovepipes are rare. Extraction seems good. The polymer recoil buffer may be the problem. Maybe its absorbing all the bolt energy rather than letting the bolt bounce off?

 

[Drumie]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

I am wondering if the VQ handle with the Kidd bolt is doing anything? I have 3 Kidd bolts and I just ordered the Kidd spring and handle when I ordered them. One thing I did notice with my Kidd bolt is it took about 100 rounds to get it working right. Seems like it needed to be shot in.
Another thing I would look at is the chamber. I just had one of my 10/22 start jamming on me. I took it apart and noticed that the firing pin actually but a dent in the barrel and it pushed into the chamber. Looks like dryfiring did it. I had to file away some of the metal and now it works great.

 

[Rookie]

Re: My 1022 is a jammomatic!!

Hmmm didnt think about that Drumie.