Not that this will help you, the OP, but maybe someone will benefit from it.
Moments....Not in time, but in physics. That is what lead you down the path you have before you now.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moment_(physics)
We have a #10-32 fastener attached to a T nut and separated by some sheets of composite and squishy filler material that tries like hell to be tough. The load applied to that fastener is concentrated to a relatively small area. The length of the screw is maybe 5/8" long. Having shot PRS events personally I appreciate how "enthusiastic" a guy can be as he attempts to ring the bells on a stage. It requires robust equipment and a bipod endures a rather challenging life during all of this.
A solution:
Machine a block from AL or even steel and tap it for the hole. Make it as wide as reasonably allowed by the barrel channel. Make it a few inches long. Say 2 or maybe even 2-1/2" in length. Shoot for anywhere between a 1/4 to 3/8 in thickness. Now whip up some decent quality resin and capture that thing with the tapped hole aligned to the existing one for the sling swivel. -86 the flimsy T nut made of stamped whatever. Yes, it will add weight. I would think were all in good enough physical shape to endure an extra 2-3 oz if were playing "gamer gun" on the weekends. (I say this because its sure to be asked at some point by someone...lol)
Let it cure fully.
What does this do? It spreads that load and gets it closer to where the work is being done. IE, the
moment at play when you full throttle this thing at a mover stage or whatever. Surface area is a big deal. Exactly why you don't see recoil lugs on guns shaped like log splitters...
I've done this on several "gamer guns" where guys want a single stud rather than a "pic rail". Thus far the stocks have tolerated it well.
A little work, but no big deal. As for fixing your stock, it's pretty easy. You can solve this at home if you have a shop vice. Run down to a boat store or an RC hobby shop and buy a colorless resin system with a medium cure rate. Half an hour or so. Hobby shops sell this stuff in little squeeze bottles. A marina is more apt to try and sell you a gallon of it.
Whip it up, and by that I mean MIX THE SNOT OUT OF IT! You MUST get the catalyst introduced to the resin. When your wrist starts to hurt, you are half way there. Seriously. This is the part few take seriously, but its absolutely critical.
Start painting it into the fracture as best you can. Acid brushes are a gunsmiths mistress; Cheap and easy. . .lol Now, with soft jaws on your shop vice. (rags, leather, whatever, just so you don't kill the finish with direct knurled steel contact) start opening/closing the vice. Don't swing for the fences. Just a little effort will close this and the crack will open again once relaxed.
Watch what happens... Capillary action will start to draw that resin into the crack. Keep it coated and just keep working it back and forth. When the little air bubbles slow down, clamp it shut, wipe away the excess, and go make pig candy on the BBQ for a few hours.
The trick is getting that resin to saturate as far into the fracture as you can. Most of Tom's for end filler material is fairly porous so the capillary action will take on a life of its own once it gets in there. When it cures it'll have plenty of surfaces to bond to and stay put. Porous is not bad btw. It's just a necessity when folks want stuff really light. Air weighs next to nothing. Those little micro balloons are full of it.
I've tried a whole different menu of things to improve this procedure. To the point of sweet talking a pharmacist out of very small gauge syringes for diabetics so that I could fill from the bottom up. The vice trick seems to work best.
A few bucks, a little time, your back in business. Isopropyl rubbing alky will cut through the excess pretty quick and it flashes so fast that you don't really have to worry much about it contaminating the stuff in the crack and making it retard the curing process. Just get a rag wet and wipe. Don't pour the stuff on it directly. If you have a halogen flood/spot lamp and can position it about 18-24 inches away it'll make that resin a bit more "creepy" as it warms stuff up and lowers the viscosity. It also accelerates the cure time so make sure your poop is in a group,. DONT get it too close! You'll scorch your stock. Seriously. They have some serious "238 space modulator death ray" shit going on that'll build heat in composite FAST.
17-18 years ago I worked for Anschutz. The 2012, 2017's, and 2025's with laminate stocks were notorious for splitting right through the vertical grip during shipping or hard bumps in transit. A pelican case would even fall short at times. Shooters wanted to leave the guns assembled and that leads back to
moments again. . .
What I've described above is exactly how I repaired these guns. LOTS of em.
Good luck.
