Re: My SN-3 Configuration
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since I now find myself in a position to be able to purchase a USO, my head is swimming with the options.
I have narrowed it down to the following:
<span style="font-weight: bold">USO SN-3 3.2-17x</span>
58mm Objective
1/10 Mil EREK
1/10 Mil M40 Windage
30mm Tube
GAP Reticle
Red Illumination
This optic will be going on my .308 M700 and will be a dual purpose LEO and Tactical Competition rifle.
I need input from EXPERIENCED USERS on the following:
Would the 35mm tube be at all necessary on a .308. For those who have become accustomed to the USMC or Standard MIL Reticle is the GAP Reticle
an advantage or does it become cluttered? Are you still able to mil to the tenth as easily with the GAP Reticle? Is the Mil EREK as much of an advantage as the 1/2 MOA EREK.
I really want to try Mil/Mil but I am hesitant since MOA is second nature at this point. Have any of you experienced difficulty in switching over.
Thanks for the help. It's not every day you are handed a $2400 optic and I want to make sure I get it right.
Lastly if you don't have real life experience with the features I have asked about, please do not post up stuff you have read somewhere else on the internet. </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">LoneWolfUSMC</span>,
Glad to see that you are able to get a USO - you will love it. I'm neither LEO or Military, but I can offer you some observations from use. Hopefully you can take away something from my comments.
It is rare that I have occasion to use the illumination, so I have no need for the 58mm objective and do not have experience with one. That said, I believe that unless you will be shooting after dark/in the dark ALOT, you should seriously re-consider going with the 44mm objective. Call USO and talk to John (Williams, III) and get his input based on what your usage will be. That said, I have an SN-3 3.2-17X 44mm Lo Pro ERGO in the following configuration and offer my observations:
<span style="font-weight: bold">USO SN-3 3.2-17x</span>
44mm Lo Pro ERGO Objective
1/10 Mil EREK
1/10 Mil US#3 M40 Windage - LEFT HAND OPTION + WINDAGE STOP
35mm Tube
GAP Reticle
Green Illumination
2" ARD
<span style="font-weight: bold">Comments on option usage:</span>
(a) <span style="font-weight: bold">44mm Lo Pro ERGO Objective:</span> Plenty bright during daylight and dusk. I leave my 2" ARD on all the time as a dust and wind barrier. I've shot on many cloudy, overcast days and shot in the rain on occasion. On sunny days the USO ARD is very welcome, as the SoCal sun can actually make the image <span style="font-style: italic">too bright</span>.
(b) <span style="font-weight: bold">ARD:</span> I'm not LEO or Military, but I use an ARD as a wind & dust barrier. I leave mine on all the time as the image is plenty bright. That USO glass is GOOD! I've used both the 2" and 4" ARDs' and have found the 2" to be sufficient for my use. YMMV. NOTE: ARD <span style="font-weight: bold">OALs' are actually 2.25" and 4.25"</span> - the <span style="font-style: italic">installed lengths</span> are 2.0" and 4.0" respectively.
(c) <span style="font-weight: bold">EREK .01 MIL:</span> Low, stubby know is easy to grip with or without gloves on. Lots of space between the increments makes it easy to read the dial. Clicks are distinct and don't "wander". Matching MIL reticle and adjustments, what else is there to say but less to fuck-up on. Everything is based on 1/10s' and you get direct feedback for adjustments, if necessary. However, if you're since you know MOA and are comfortable with MOA then maybe you should stick with MOA / MOA.
(d) <span style="font-weight: bold">US#3 M40 WINDAGE:</span> 5 MILS each direction, large "scallops" are easy to grip (like the EREK), dial easy to read. Clicks are distinct and don't "wander". Matching MIL reticle and adjustments. Shape complements EREK knob nicely.
(e) <span style="font-weight: bold">LEFT HAND WINDAGE:</span> Very cool option for RH shooters would shoot mainly prone (like me) or off the bench, since you can check your Windage setting without losing your cheekweld. Not as good for RH shooters who shoot offhand and like to dial windage (since you are supporting the rifle with your weak hand you need to reach over to the left side of the tube to dial), but workable. The LH Windage Option is not listed on the USO site - you just have USO spec it on your BUILD SHEET if you want it.
(f) <span style="font-weight: bold">WINDAGE STOP:</span> From a practicality standpoint, I haven't had occasion to use it, although depending on your AO I can see where it might come in handy. Typically I don't need more than 4 MILS of Windage, and I have found it much faster to just hold it. Probably a good selling point if you ever have to the need.
(g) <span style="font-weight: bold">35mm Tube:</span> I went with the 35mm tube for the bit of extra travel but I probably could have gone with the 30mm. I shoot BH 175s' which are a little slow (BHs' states 2,600 FPS MV). I think that most people can get a .308 out to 1,000 yards using a 30mm-tubed scope without a problem, especially when using a 20 MOA base, but for an $86.00 upgrade charge why not get the 35? It can't hurt - ring selection is great enough (not so much if you go with the 58mm Objective) that you can get quality rings in a proper height to suit you. I see the upgrade charge as small amount when you are spending $2,000.00 to begin with.
(h) <span style="font-weight: bold">GAP Reticle:</span> Great reticle - IMHO the GAP reticle is cleaner and obscures less than either the USMC footballs or the US Army round Mildots. I also like the way that only the MIL marks bisect the vertices, and that the .5 MIL marks only protrude from the vertices in one direction. That is less cluttered.
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Milling .01 MIL objects is iffy, as the smallest measurement avalable on the
<span style="font-weight: bold">GAP Reticle</span> is .25 MIL (.90"). [The .5 MIL increments on both the vertices are .25 MIL "wide", so you can use these lines to measure height and width]. The only way to appromate to .01 MIL is to "eyeball" the object/target and bracket it between the .5 MIL marks. Not an exact method at all, but it can be done in good to moderate light. I've bracketed targets where 4, maybe 5 would fit end-to-end between the .5 MIL marks at 17X. But again, an in-exact science and difficult unless light is pretty good. I wish the GAP had a 1/10 MIL breakdowns at 6 and 3 O' Clock. That would make milling small stuff much easier.
I've looked through several MPR-equipped 3.2-17X 44mm SN-3s' before deciding on the GAP reticle. I found the
<span style="font-weight: bold">MPR</span> too busy for my taste - the full MIL lines are 1 MIL long and the 1/2 MIL lines are .5 MIL long. I'm not sure about the .02 MIL lines. At any rate, all the hash marks bisect the vertices and obscure too much of the image <span style="font-style: italic">for me</span>. I have the same problem when looking through a friends 3.2-17X 44 T-PAL with the
<span style="font-weight: bold">MDMOA reticle</span>. YMMV.
(i) <span style="font-weight: bold">Green illumination:</span> GREEN is easier to see in low light for me, but RED is less likely to ruin your night vision by burning-out the rods & cones in your eyes. Advantage RED. Not necessary for me but essential for LEO and Military. Either color illumination makes for an atttractive selling point if you ever cross that road.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: glock24</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I went MPR and mil/mil after first owning a GAP in mil/mil. <span style="font-weight: bold">I like the MPR much, much better. The thinner lines help improve my measurements, but are still easy to see.</span>
Another 58mm user too I see? Good man!</div></div>
Actually, unless USO had changed the specs on the GAP and MPR the thickness of the reticle lines are equal between the GAP and the MPR (.1 MOA).
Keith