Neck Tension - Too Much?

[Woolsocks]

My new brass has .312 necks. I typically size to .314. Loaded round is .317

Would loading right into the new cases without resizing the necks be a terrible idea? 5 thou seems like a lot.

 

[clcustom1911]

I personally run everything through my sizing die on the first firing for consistency because I want everything to be the same because of what my personal standards are.

If you are OK with some inconsistency which maybe, might, potentially open up groups by like ¼- ½ MOA...or might male no difference at all.... then.....

You're totally good on load and go for your first firing.....and probably on subsequent firings till you anneal on your 2-4th firing... or anneal every firing depending on how much work you wanna do.

 

[918v]

Why not run a mandrel through the necks?

 

[hafejd30]

Get a 21st century mandrel die. I have 2 dies and buy the correct mandrel to size any virgin brass before I load it. The 30 and 6.5 mandrels fit in the short or long dies

I still lube but I typically buy the titanium nitride mandrels or whatever it’s called that doesn’t need lube

 

[supercorndogs]

Run them over the expander ball in your FL die.

 

[ma smith]

Why not run a mandrel through the necks?

Mandrel+ a bit of drylube is the answer...

100 brass x 5 seconds/each = 8.x mintues ...
worth it unless you are really stressed for time.

Also, typically you want to inside chamfer, even
eg lapua, when its brand new...but ymmv

 

[Woolsocks]

Okee dok. Sounds like 5 thou is a lot. I’ll expand and size to .314.

 

[supercorndogs]

I have shot brass with more, but I always run new brass over an expander. It rounds necks so you get a good chamfer and debur. It might shoot it might not. You might trouble seating bullets you might not. You're the only one with hands on it. Best anyone else can do is what they would do.

 

[rmiked]

If using a full length sizer die, in order to only resize the necks on new (unfired brass), how far up into the die do you push the cartridge? Written guidance will say to partially insert the brass into the die. But the neck area of the die is at the top of the ram stroke? When you pull the expander ball thru, it’s only gonna expand what was resized. Seems to me like you would need to fully insert the brass into the sizer die in order to resize the entire neck? What am I missing? If you stop about 1/2 the neck length from fully inserted (die not touching the shell holder), then you will only resize 1/2 the neck? I have loaded new brass before without sizing at all and never had problems with chambering or performance but I realize I probably had inconsistent neck tension on the first firings. I’m starting to load for a new 7 PRC and I want consistent neck tension. Should I just full length size the new brass or load new brass without sizing at all?

 

[diggler1833]

Why not run a mandrel through the necks?

^ This is what I do. It also takes any potential flat spots out that are too hard to see with the naked eye.

 

[rmiked]

I have never used a mandrel. Just full length or neck sizer , 2 die sets. I assume you resize the entire neck, with full length or neck size only die, then use the mandrel? Does a mandrel do a better job of expanding the necks than the expander ball inside the sizer die? Am I wrong in assuming the neck would still need to be resized before using the mandrel? I probably need to watch a Utube on using a mandrel.

 

[918v]

If you don’t use a mandrel and just load a new case as is then (depending on brand) the excessive seating effort will damage bullet tips, produce an inconsistent coal, and shit accuracy.

I use a mandrel because I don’t want to run a new case through a FL die. Mandrel is faster.

 

[diggler1833]

I have never used a mandrel. Just full length or neck sizer , 2 die sets. I assume you resize the entire neck, with full length or neck size only die, then use the mandrel? Does a mandrel do a better job of expanding the necks than the expander ball inside the sizer die? Am I wrong in assuming the neck would still need to be resized before using the mandrel? I probably need to watch a Utube on using a mandrel.

I've just used the expander ball in a F/L die before too. It is basically the same, but you have less control over the amount of interference fit (neck tension) because the ball is a one-size-works-for-all deal, instead of you choosing by the .0005.

Just make sure that you back the F/L sizing die out at least a good full turn if you are going to run the ball through new brass.

When using a mandrel on new brass, you just run the neck over the mandrel and that is it. There is no sizing of the body and shoulder.

 

[straightshooter1]

I have never used a mandrel. Just full length or neck sizer , 2 die sets. I assume you resize the entire neck, with full length or neck size only die, then use the mandrel? Does a mandrel do a better job of expanding the necks than the expander ball inside the sizer die? Am I wrong in assuming the neck would still need to be resized before using the mandrel? I probably need to watch a Utube on using a mandrel.

Expander ball can work just fine if the neck wall thicknesses are consistent and the die is set up properly for the expander ball to work well, which takes quite some effort to get the adjustment just right IMHO. Using a expander mandrel is the easy button. And yes, the neck should be sized down before mandreling up. . . like only sizing down to at least .002 below the amount of expanding one is after. Best results are when you move the neck as little as needed to get the "neck tension" you're after.

 

[rmiked]

I've just used the expander ball in a F/L die before too. It is basically the same, but you have less control over the amount of interference fit (neck tension) because the ball is a one-size-works-for-all deal, instead of you choosing by the .0005.

Just make sure that you back the F/L sizing die out at least a good full turn if you are going to run the ball through new brass.

When using a mandrel on new brass, you just run the neck over the mandrel and that is it. There is no sizing of the body and shoulder.

Why would you run the FL die out one full turn? To prevent bumping the shoulder back on new brass? Just making sure I understand what the intent is? Thanks

 

[diggler1833]

Why would you run the FL die out one full turn? To prevent bumping the shoulder back on new brass? Just making sure I understand what the intent is? Thanks

Yep. Backing it out a full turn ensures that there is no contact with the shoulder. Frequently I also only raise the ram enough to run the case over the ball. The backing out a full turn is just an additional measure against my ignorance.