It’s time to start replacing some of .260 brass. I have noticed that a lot of Hide members are willing to go the extra effort to neck-up Lapua .243 brass. I would like to know if there is a benefit of necking up the Lapua brass vs. going with Norma’s .260 brass.
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Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
- Thread starter TBass
- Start date
Re: Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It’s time to start replacing some of .260 brass. I have noticed that a lot of Hide members are willing to go the extra effort to neck-up Lapua .243 brass. I would like to know if there is a benefit of necking up the Lapua brass vs. going with Norma’s .260 brass. </div></div>
If you have a tapered expander in your sizing die (Redding), there is no 'extra effort' involved. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck, insert .243 brass into shell holder, size, and it is now .260 brass. Lapua brass is excellent quality, it's arguably the <span style="font-style: italic">benchmark</span> of brass, and it's <span style="font-style: italic">significantl</span>y less expensive than Norma brass.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It’s time to start replacing some of .260 brass. I have noticed that a lot of Hide members are willing to go the extra effort to neck-up Lapua .243 brass. I would like to know if there is a benefit of necking up the Lapua brass vs. going with Norma’s .260 brass. </div></div>
If you have a tapered expander in your sizing die (Redding), there is no 'extra effort' involved. Be sure to lube the inside of the neck, insert .243 brass into shell holder, size, and it is now .260 brass. Lapua brass is excellent quality, it's arguably the <span style="font-style: italic">benchmark</span> of brass, and it's <span style="font-style: italic">significantl</span>y less expensive than Norma brass.
Re: Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Remington brass' primer pockets after about the 3rd or 4th time reloaded started to get a little loose. A few would not even hold the primers.</div></div>
Just curious - how hot was your load? Were you experiencing any primer flow with those loads?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Remington brass' primer pockets after about the 3rd or 4th time reloaded started to get a little loose. A few would not even hold the primers.</div></div>
Just curious - how hot was your load? Were you experiencing any primer flow with those loads?
Re: Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
I have shot the .243 lapua brass through My .260.
After a few firings i developed donuts in the neck region.
I would look at winchester 7mm-08 brass and neck it down for a cheaper route than norma brass.
But if i was set on shooting high quality brass i would buy the norma that is already sized to what i want so you wont have donuts develope down the road.
But 7mm-08 winchester brass necked down is the way i would roll, a bunch around here do.
I have shot the .243 lapua brass through My .260.
After a few firings i developed donuts in the neck region.
I would look at winchester 7mm-08 brass and neck it down for a cheaper route than norma brass.
But if i was set on shooting high quality brass i would buy the norma that is already sized to what i want so you wont have donuts develope down the road.
But 7mm-08 winchester brass necked down is the way i would roll, a bunch around here do.
Re: Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
Loads are not terribly hot. I run 43 grains of IMR4350 & the cases really show no signs of high pressures. nicholst55 - when you ask about primer flow, I assume you mean are the primer pockets growing in size... and yes they are.
I just got done shooting in below freezing weather w/ wind gusts from 8mph to 16mph & I was sighting in some new glass put on top of my rifle. I am now of the opinion, if it ain't broke not mess with it. In the conditions listed above, I was able to zero the weapon in 3 shots & then put 7 shots into a group that could be covered by a nickle... and I have little doubt that the rifle & ammo in more capable hands (and better conditions) can do far better. I think I will just stick to using the ole Remmy brass.
Loads are not terribly hot. I run 43 grains of IMR4350 & the cases really show no signs of high pressures. nicholst55 - when you ask about primer flow, I assume you mean are the primer pockets growing in size... and yes they are.
I just got done shooting in below freezing weather w/ wind gusts from 8mph to 16mph & I was sighting in some new glass put on top of my rifle. I am now of the opinion, if it ain't broke not mess with it. In the conditions listed above, I was able to zero the weapon in 3 shots & then put 7 shots into a group that could be covered by a nickle... and I have little doubt that the rifle & ammo in more capable hands (and better conditions) can do far better. I think I will just stick to using the ole Remmy brass.
Re: Necking up Lapua .243 brass or Norma 260 brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">nicholst55 - when you ask about primer flow, I assume you mean are the primer pockets growing in size... and yes they are. </div></div>
Actually I'm wondering if the primers are flowing back into the firing pin hole. You said there were no visible pressure signs, so I assume the primers are <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> flowing.
I ask because I'm planning a .260 Rem build, and I have no experience with the cartridge. I'm wondering if bushing the firing pin hole (to a smaller diameter) is worth the additional (albeit small) additional cost.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TBass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">nicholst55 - when you ask about primer flow, I assume you mean are the primer pockets growing in size... and yes they are. </div></div>
Actually I'm wondering if the primers are flowing back into the firing pin hole. You said there were no visible pressure signs, so I assume the primers are <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> flowing.
I ask because I'm planning a .260 Rem build, and I have no experience with the cartridge. I'm wondering if bushing the firing pin hole (to a smaller diameter) is worth the additional (albeit small) additional cost.
