I need an adjustable .936 gas block. One that is easy to adjust, maybe a three position or more. Size is not a problem the gas block is out side of the forearm. Anyone with some ideas?
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I recently had a JP .936 adjustable used in my 6mm Fat Rat build that you can see in a post I'm documenting elsewhere here on the Hide. It's typical JP quality so no issues with that but its mounted on a 2" extended gas system on a 26" barrel and even with it turned all the way down the action is cycling about as hard as I would want it to now without a suppressor so I'm thinking its going to be over gasses with a suppressor. I'm guessing the gas port is a little oversized in the barrel but I'm surprised I can't shut the gas down more with the gas block.
I believe they are 8-32 threads. Just run a bottoming tap in and youncan close it all the way.
PRI makes a pretty decent adjustable block:
Precision Reflex - Product Detail - 936 Adjustable Gas Blk W/ Straight Gas Tube - $84.00
The straight gas tube design will also help it clear larger barrel profiles like the DPMS SASS.
Is that safe to do on the barrel or do I need to remove it? Just want to make sure the shavings aren't gonna clog anything...
I recently had a JP .936 adjustable used in my 6mm Fat Rat build that you can see in a post I'm documenting elsewhere here on the Hide. It's typical JP quality so no issues with that but its mounted on a 2" extended gas system on a 26" barrel and even with it turned all the way down the action is cycling about as hard as I would want it to now without a suppressor so I'm thinking its going to be over gasses with a suppressor. I'm guessing the gas port is a little oversized in the barrel but I'm surprised I can't shut the gas down more with the gas block.
With the JP gas block you should be able to turn the gas all the way off to the point where you could run it like a straight pull bolt gun. If you cant do that then it is not installed correctly. You need to remove the gas screw and run a tap in through the gas block where the gas adjustment screw goes in. what you are doing is tapping the gas tube so the set screw can engage and then block the gas tube. Currently you adjustable gas block really isn't doing anything. Once you go though these steps you will find a huge difference in function.
link to JP instruction sheet:
http://www.jprifles.com/document_pdfs/JPGS8_522.pdf
This is the line that matters for you:
4. Make sure that the gas port in the gas tube is aligned with the gas port in the block. Then, run a 6-32 tap into the gas
screw hole to blend
the gas tube into the tapped hole and allow the screw to fully engage.
For factory production options...you've got a couple different models from JP Enterprises (a low-profile and one with a picatinny rail top section...since yours is outside the rail), as well as the one from PRI.
You may also be able to source a custom unit like the positional block you mentioned from Paladin Machine:
Paladin Machine Service
3832 Gates Ford Rd.
Kershaw, SC 29067
(803) 475-7542
No website...sorry. I may be able to find their e-mail...if I do, I'll post it for you, but they are GTG!
I've got a Paladin Machine 3 position block on my .936" Lilja .260 AR. It's awesome.
I was looking at Paladin for a switchable gas block for a 0.875" barrel. Is the Paladin block heavy? Does it weigh any more than a JP or other low profile gas block?
They are not a lot heavier, but they are somewhat based on the fact that they are steel and not alloy and because they are somewhat larger in size than other blocks. I think my last 0.750" 3-position block from Paladin weighed around 4.5oz or so, but just remember when making comparisons that you look at the design, construction, features and materials used because not all blocks are created equal.
Not the best photo but here's the Paladin 3 position on my Maten build.
ETA: it won't fit under a DD 7.62 Lite rail.