Need advice on bedding scope rail with large gap (.035")

[TheGriz]

Not sure if this belongs here or in the scope forum, so forgive me if I chose incorrectly.

I have a EGW rail to mount on an old Savage flat-back stagger-feed 10 FP (I also have CDI bottom metal and inletted Choate stock coming). However there is an approximate 0.035" gap under the front part of the rail (the round section) when the rear screws are installed. My question is whether JB Weld or Devcon will effectively fill this large a gap, or should I attempt to shim it? It seems most folks are bedding a few thousandths, not 30 or 40.

Ideally, I would use a surface grinder to remove .030 or so from the rear flat section of the rail, but I do not have access to any metal-working machinery any longer (nor any friends who are machinists). And yes, I have verified the rail is flat using a Starrett engineering square.

FYI, I'm installing a Nikon FX1000 4-16 MRAD with Seekins low rings. This is replacing separate Weaver bases & rings with an original Tasco SS 10x42 (with really mushy turrets) The action already has a Timney trigger I installed years ago.

Thanks for any opinions/experience with this much epoxy. I suspect it will be fine, but want to be sure.

Keith

 

[spife7980]

When you tighten the front screws only is there a gap in the rear? I always bed the rear and leave the front alone for some reason, not sure why but it’s probably because that’s how it was done in the tutorials.

Do you have a straight edge you can check the rail itself with? Make sure it didn’t get stepped on etc?

I don’t see how it could hurt anything though so long as you plug the action holes when you do it and don’t for get the release agent on the action (kiwi shoe polish for me).

 

[Deleted member 10043]

I usually bed the front. Bedding the rear is increasing the MOA of the base. JB Weld.

 

[TheGriz]

When you tighten the front screws only is there a gap in the rear? I always bed the rear and leave the front alone for some reason, not sure why but it’s probably because that’s how it was done in the tutorials.

Do you have a straight edge you can check the rail itself with? Make sure it didn’t get stepped on etc?

I don’t see how it could hurt anything though so long as you plug the action holes when you do it and don’t for get the release agent on the action (kiwi shoe polish for me).

The rear is the high spot, so if I install and tighten the front screws, the rail is under tension and already tilted. I have to bed the front. And as I put in my post, I have a 12" Starrett ground engineers square and checked that the rail is flat off the action.

Off to HD for JB, I guess

 

[supercorndogs]

Remington doesn't do a great job of maintaining the rear deck height when they machine their tubes. I bed which ever end has the gap.

 

[whatsupdoc]

I would shim it, get some steel shim stock and make a shim to fit.

 

[TheGriz]

The deed is done - just finished applying the JB to the front and cleaning all the residue up. I'll see how well I did tomorrow after it cures. I was all ready to shim it until I realized I would not likely be able to exactly set the thickness and I would then be fabing shims and epoxy bedding it. JB Weld is pretty tough stuff and the load is in compression (strongest) so I'm pretty confident. Not sure I would have taken this approach on a 50 BMG, but it's just a 308.

Just got the shipping notice from CDI for my bottom metal and Choate stock, so I should have this thing all together this weekend and I'll hit the club next week.