Suppressors Need advice - TBAC 338 Ultra options/questions

Viper1973

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Mar 29, 2013
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Southeastern Indiana
Guys,

I’m currently looking at buying my first - and probably only - suppressor and need some help.

Have an AI AXMC with a few barrels. Most are threaded 5/8 x 24. Unfortunately though the main one I shoot is the AI standard M18x 1.5. Ideally, I’d like a direct thread suppressor since I use APA breaks on all of my barrels due to their recoil suppression and don’t really want to swap out all my breaks.

I thought about getting an 338 Ultra with a single 338 break in each thread configuration and use that as an adapter of sorts. Basically, unscrew my existing APA break, screw the TBAC break on and then the suppressor on that. When I’m done reverse the process.

Then I discovered that the TBAC breaks for some goofy reason do not have any wrench flats which would leave them stuck in the suppressor.

Does anyone know of any adapter to be able to do what I’m wanting? Or does anyone know of an easy “tool” to remove the TBAC breaks from the suppressor without damaging anything? I don’t want to endlessly be Loctiting and then unloctiting.

The SiCo Harvestor 338 setup with the interchangeable end caps fits my needs perfectly but both of the local class 3 dealers have told me that it’s nowhere near the quality or durability of those from TBAC and that the accuracy isn’t nearly as good. I’d rather buy once, cry once and be happy.

Keep in mind also, this is somewhat of a temporary situation. Once my .300WM barrel gets shot out the replacement will be done in 5/8x24 but that’s a few years down the line.

Thoughts? Any way to do what I’m wanting?
 
As stated area 419 breaks may solve your issue. I would personally bite the bullet and just buy a few brakes to loctite the in place. The fewer moving parts for a supressor the better for accuracy and limiting anything possibly going wrong.
 
The big bore harvester does NOT have removable end caps fyi. I have over 2k rounds through mine and unless they changed the design they are not swappable. The big bore is not a titanium can hence why the cost difference. I have excellent accuracy and repeatability from mine however.

Why not turn down your m18.5 threads to 5/8 on your main axmc barrel?
 
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Contact area419. I think they have a solution.

Awesome! From looking at their site it seems their Sidewinder 338 adapter and universal adapter will get me what I need.

Next question... anyone here using this setup? Any problems going this route?

I’m not about to have a factory barrel recut... at least not an AI medallion barrel.
 
Awesome! From looking at their site it seems their Sidewinder 338 adapter and universal adapter will get me what I need.

Next question... anyone here using this setup? Any problems going this route?

I’m not about to have a factory barrel recut... at least not an AI medallion barrel.
I use their adapter and self timing hellfire with my tbac ultra 7. Works every time.
 
The TBAC brake does have two flats you could get a wrench on.

The two flats the TBAC breaks have would be INSIDE the can so they would be zero use in getting a break out of the suppressor itself which is the issue I’m trying to get around. Unless all the pictures I’m finding of the breaks are wrong.

Can someone confirm there are external flats that would be accessible with the TBAC breaks?
 
The two flats the TBAC breaks have would be INSIDE the can so they would be zero use in getting a break out of the suppressor itself which is the issue I’m trying to get around. Unless all the pictures I’m finding of the breaks are wrong.

Can someone confirm there are external flats that would be accessible with the TBAC breaks?

My mistake. I misread the post.
I’m in the same boat. My AXMC 260 barrels are 5/8x24 and the 338LM is metric. I bought two TBAC adaptors. The metric one will stay on the 338 barrel and I’ll move around the 5/8x24 brake. In my plan and the little practice I’ve had while the can is in jail is as long as the brake on the barrel is torqued tighter then the suppressor on the brake your fine. If the brake comes off with the suppressor, loctite the brake on the barrel, wait for it to set and unscrew the suppressor. Then brake free the mount with a wrench.
 
I considered that but I frequently shoot multiple calibers when I go to the range so the constant re-Loctite-ing I don’t think is going to be a good solution... plus that stuff isn’t the easiest to remove out of fine threads.

You’d think TBAC would make some easily interchangeable screw on adapters since I don’t think what I’m wanting to do is all that weird. But it looks like the Hellfire Sidewinder system may be the only way unless someone’s found anything else that works.
 
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Just cry once and buy a handful of spare brakes.

If the TBAC breaks could come close to the recoil reduction of the APA I would but unfortunately they don’t. I shot a buddies TBAC break on his 300WM. Even the factory AI break controls recoil better.

I actually prefer breaks to shooting suppressed... unfortunately my fellow range buddies don’t care for the noise I make so I’m trying to find a solution for when I’m shooting with them vs shooting alone.
 
If the TBAC breaks could come close to the recoil reduction of the APA I would but unfortunately they don’t. I shot a buddies TBAC break on his 300WM. Even the factory AI break controls recoil better.

I actually prefer breaks to shooting suppressed... unfortunately my fellow range buddies don’t care for the noise I make so I’m trying to find a solution for when I’m shooting with them vs shooting alone.

A few years from now when that buzzing/ringing in your ear gets bad, you might regret your preference.

Between airplanes, guns, guitars and girls the tinnitus in my ears can be pretty bad. I am glad I switched to cans on everything or I would really be screwed.
 
Hi,

Couple explanations: We don't have user-interchangeable rear ends to minimize the number of moving parts and things that can come loose. Also, there are no wrench flats on the back of the CB/BA brakes in order to keep the added OAL to the absolute minimum.

Zak,

Do you guys have any recommendations as to how to accomplish what I’m needing? Surely I’m not the first person to want to use a different break for unsuppressed or having one odd threaded barrel.

Does the Area419 kit affect the warranty or have you seen issues with them?

Any guidance will be most helpful since I haven’t dealt with suppressors before other than trying my buddy’s.
 
I dont know anyone as well who can shoot supressed but chooses not to.

Ok, maybe I am the oddball...

Have always used 33db plugs + my comtac's so sound hasn't really ever been any issue for me. However, recoil - due to past shoulder surgery- is. So, I've always gone with the maximum amount of recoil suppression I can get in a break so that I can continue to enjoy my hobby.

The only reason I'm even entertaining the idea of purchasing a suppressor is so that when I'm shooting with others I don't disrupt their shooting experience as much as I currently do.
 
Ok, maybe I am the oddball...

Have always used 33db plugs + my comtac's so sound hasn't really ever been any issue for me. However, recoil - due to past shoulder surgery- is. So, I've always gone with the maximum amount of recoil suppression I can get in a break so that I can continue to enjoy my hobby.

The only reason I'm even entertaining the idea of purchasing a suppressor is so that when I'm shooting with others I don't disrupt their shooting experience as much as I currently do.
Fair enough! Each thier own.
 
Ok, maybe I am the oddball...

Have always used 33db plugs + my comtac's so sound hasn't really ever been any issue for me. However, recoil - due to past shoulder surgery- is. So, I've always gone with the maximum amount of recoil suppression I can get in a break so that I can continue to enjoy my hobby.
That's understandable. Just keep in mind, especially with aggressive brakes like an APA or Hellfire, concussive hearing loss happens and ear protection can't stop it.
 
Buy a brake for each rifle. I’ve never had problems with my 338 ultra getting stuck on the brake. Use a couple of drops of loctite on the barrel threads and use a wrench to snug up the brake. Just don’t use a pipe wrench when you install the suppressor and it’s unlikely to get stuck. My suspicion is the people that have been getting the brake stuck inside the can are only putting the brake on the barrel hand tight. Mine has never even come close to getting stuck. It’s much easier to remove than my direct thread cans.
 
I would think that 338 Ultra suppressor would have fantastic recoil reduction due to it huge internal volume. Have you had a chance to try out that suppressor?

I haven't gotten a chance to try the Thunderbeast Ultra 338, but I have shot my buddy's Remington with his Ultra-9. Really like the sound reduction but the recoil reduction was far less than what my APA break provided on his same rifle. That's why I decided to look into the Ultra 338 for mine and stick to my existing breaks when I'm not suppressed.

My original plan was to get the Ultra 338 in a 5/8x24 direct thread and just swap between it and my break as needed. However, I've got one barrel that's M18x1.5. That's why I started researching how to make one work for both and have one that would work across all my barrels.

That's what got me looking at the SiCo Harvestors - the interchangeable back plates. Not realizing that Harvestor 338 DOESNT have that feature like the other one does. So it seems which ever manufacturer I go with I'm going to have to have a workaround until my barrel's done and needs replaced.

I'm beginning to think the Area419 Sidewinder system is probably going to be my best bet :(
 
Viper the big bore harvestor has swappable mounting options, 5/8 direct thread insert or you can run the asr I do both on my rifles. My previous comment was in regards to end caps because you stated it had swappable encaps which the harvestor does not. Big difference in terminology between encaps and mounting options:). Hope that helps clarify for you
 

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Viper the big bore harvestor has swappable mounting options, 5/8 direct thread insert or you can run the asr I do both on my rifles. My previous comment was in regards to end caps because you stated it had swappable encaps which the harvestor does not. Big difference in terminology between encaps and mounting options:). Hope that helps clarify for you

Like I said I have very limited experience with suppressors...
(I considered the mounting surface as the read endcap.... lol. Shows what I know. )

How's the build quality/durability? Both of the local class 3 shops were steering me away from the SiCo products.
 
Mine has over 3k rounds on it across all my calibers and 1k of that is 338 LM pushing max loads. No issues so far other than the anchor brake will kit loose dirt up like an Oklahoma F5 tornado if you do not choose your shooting position well. On the other hand that anchor brake will reduce felt recoil very noticeably. It is very light can but I cant speak to long term durability yet as I have only had it for about 1.5 years now. Big bores are an aluminum sleeved can with an all 17-4 steel baffle stack ultras are 100% titanium so there is a cost difference there in build materials. Sico has a burned alot of bridges in the last 2-3 years unfortunately and if I did not already have sico cans, I am not sure I would choose to support them all over again. With that said ALL of my sico cans have performed above my expectations and the build quality/performance has been stellar. TBAC is run by great guys and has arguably the best customer service of all the major suppressor companies current in business you cant go wrong with a 338 ultra either :).
 
Awesome! From looking at their site it seems their Sidewinder 338 adapter and universal adapter will get me what I need.

Next question... anyone here using this setup? Any problems going this route?

I’m not about to have a factory barrel recut... at least not an AI medallion barrel.

The barrel will eventually be shot out and be useless anyways so why not have the threads cut to what you need? It's not like the resale value is hurt any by changing thread size.
 
I have never heard of a big bore launching off a gun from either operator error or defect. I have heard of several omega's having that exact issue.
 
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Everyone,

Thanks for your help... i’ve ordered an 338 Ultra from SilencerShop since my local Class 3 is partnered with them.

I’m stopping by tomorrow to do the kiosk thing and my wait begins... I’ll probably do the Sidewinder system but I’m going to wait on that until after I have the can in hand. Wish me luck!
 
I dont know anyone as well who can shoot supressed but chooses not to.

I do it all the time. Depends what you're doing. If I'm goofing around, the can is nice. If I'm going to a match using a brake keeps the rifle length down and the suppressor loosening up is one less thing to worry about.

Before you go all in on the sidewinder, it's not compatible with the hellfire system from Area 419.

You don't need the sidewinder brake unless you're potentially putting it on a 338. That's my next point, a braked 338 is no problem to shoot. Screw a can on for more than a couple shots and it's a flinch factory.

If you're shooting regular short action calibers you could put hellfire universal mounts on the barrels and swap the brake, and can with the adapter inside, around as needed.

I like the Hellfire brake. I have converted most of my rifles to use it. I own several hellfire brakes. If I want to shoot suppressed it's as easy as removing the brake and screwing the can on with the adapter already inside it. Mounts right to the universal adapter.
 
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Awesome! From looking at their site it seems their Sidewinder 338 adapter and universal adapter will get me what I need.

Next question... anyone here using this setup? Any problems going this route?

I’m not about to have a factory barrel recut... at least not an AI medallion barrel.
Using Area 419 Hellfire and Sidewinder on all my TBAC CANS. No problems. Makes it very easy to use the cans on all my rifles. Great setup.
 
The barrel will eventually be shot out and be useless anyways so why not have the threads cut to what you need? It's not like the resale value is hurt any by changing thread size.
I'm in this camp. Barrels are consumables. How much money are you going to have tied up in all these adapters and things vs just rethreading to 5/8?
 
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Yup. I didn’t want to do TBAC brakes either. I wanted everything to be simple 5/8x24. That’s not in the cards, so to me the next easiest is two brakes.
Yep - Had to do the same but only had to use 2 TBAC brakes on AI barrels. I sure wish everyone would standardize their threads!
 
Thoughts? Any way to do what I’m wanting?

You could get an adapter from Mark McWillis at TROSUSA that will go from M18x1.5 to 5/8x24, red loctite it on the barrel and then use the brake as a direct thread insert as you were considering. If it gets stuck in the suppressor and you eventually want to remove it you could take an old barrel or bar stock threaded 5/8x24 and red Loctite it on, unscrew the can and then use heat to pull the brake off. I'm not advocating using the brake to direct thread, just a way to accomplish what you want to do. Personally, I never shoot unsuppressed anymore (well, not rifles anyway.)