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Gunsmithing Need Help Gang

techecr

Private
Minuteman
Sep 24, 2020
19
2
Hi Gang,

So I finally got a backup 700 .308 backup setup blueprinted and it came back DOA and would not fire. It was all new parts and never fired. I have been sitting on the setup until I had the $$$ to get it set up properly and trued. The smith said they fired several rounds through it and it fired no issues. I have another 5R and zero issues with my loads and standard loads. My main go to is Federal Gold Match SMK 168G. I picked up a MDT TIMBR chassis and bedded and set everything and took to the range with first pull was no fire, which repeated 4-6 attempts. So I was scratching my head, and a bit upset, so I sent it back and they said that it fired at their shop when it left and again when I sent it back with no issues. I received it back and today got to go to the range, same issue.

As I have been racking my brain in sequence from part to part, I decided to use my bore cam and here is what I found. Is the general consensus that the bead of solder in the bottom of the bolt is the reason why the firing pin could have never fully seated to get the proper depth to strike the primer.

Looking or a second, third, forth or fifth opinion.

I appreciate the feedback, gang.
 

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Update, So I checked my other 700 .308 bolt and it also has some level of solder in the bottom as well. Perhaps a TT Diamond issue?At this point any thoughts are appreciated. Thank you, in advance.
 
As far as I know, the TT Diamonds aren't recommended for Remington 700 actions, just the clones. Do you have a different trigger you could try?
Second thought, I do have a TT special with a bolt release that I can try, although I had a side bolt release put in the action. Perhaps that will be good for the test. I'll give it a shot as well.

Thanks!
 
could it be the firing pin dims? Not looking to get you to wind up with pierced primers, but could it be that it is too short? As a way to proofread what they are claiming, have you tried to mimic their test by using the same ammo?
 
could it be the firing pin dims? Not looking to get you to wind up with pierced primers, but could it be that it is too short? As a way to proofread what they are claiming, have you tried to mimic their test by using the same ammo?
It's the stock pin so I would have thought it would have been a clean punch. As of now, no contact, nothing. I am planning to try a few different factory loads to see of anything has contact.

One would think that accurizing would make both bolt and action face as close as possible to shorten the distance between both, which should in theory minimize pin to primer, as little as that may be?

I'm going to to increase trigger increase adjustment, try special trigger swap, and try different ammo to eliminate those variables.

I appreciate you giving thought to this plight as well.

Thank you, Lariat!
 
It's the stock pin so I would have thought it would have been a clean punch. As of now, no contact, nothing. I am planning to try a few different factory loads to see of anything has contact.
When you attempt to fire, the firing pin is not touching the primers?

When you sent it back to the shop, did you send it back in the same stock you attempted to shoot it in?
 
What happens if you take the round that wouldn’t fire, and try to fire it in your other 308?
This has to be part of the investigation. You need to do some kind of modified scientific method to get to the root issue.

The issue here is that box ammo should conform to SAAMI. The chamber should as well. This is the reason I asked about the firing pin. Even with a poor firing pin spring and hard primers you should still see evidence of a strike.
 
When they did the work originally, it was assembled with just the barrel, action, and trigger. I simply got it back and dropped it in the stock, both times. No fire.

Thank you.
What happens if you take the round that wouldn’t fire, and try to fire it in your other 308?
The round fired just fine in my other .308.

Thank you!
 
Just a thought here. You said the 'smith got it to fire. Was he shooting it in your stock? I'm wondering about trigger clearance like it's bound up on the stock bedding. Possibly only dropping to half cocked?
He said they test fired it in their shop. I don’t know what or if they used a stock. It could be a trigger issue. I am currently using the TT Diamond with no bolt release. At the time of work, the smith added the bolt release on the side of the action, retimed the bolt and handle and faceted the shroud. It looks beautiful, just no fire, no matter what I do.

Thank you!
 
Let's get this in order here.....

Shop did work and it was firing with no stock, Did it have the the TT diamond?

You got it back and dropped it in an MDT
Won't fire

Took it back to gunsmith and they said it fired?
With the MDT and TT Diamond?
 
Let's get this in order here.....

Shop did work and it was firing with no stock, Did it have the the TT diamond?

You got it back and dropped it in an MDT
Won't fire

Took it back to gunsmith and they said it fired?
With the MDT and TT Diamond?
Thanks for digging in saddle.

1.After looking back, no.
2. Correct.
3. Yes, with the diamond only.

They advised “We could not replicate the issue. Ran ammo thru with no problem. Protruding trigger pin seems to be the issue. Noted photos of chassis and trigger pin. trimmed trigger pin for client.”

So once I got it back, dropped it back in, and same result.

Thank you!
 
Hi Terry,

The firing pin does not touch the primer at all.

I sent it back to the smith minus stock. Everything else I bract the way it was sent to me.

Thank you!
 
Hi Terry,

The firing pin does not touch the primer at all.

I sent it back to the smith minus stock. Everything else I bract the way it was sent to me.

Thank you!
Gotcha.

It is possible that your stock inlet is not letting your bolt rotate fully down into battery.

If the bolt is not 100% rotated down, your cocking piece will be intercepted by the bolt's cocking cam during it's release. If this happens, the firing pin can't reach past your breech face.

With your new barreled action in the chassis, push the bolt handle down as far as allowed. Now try to get a strip of paper inside all points between the bolt handle and your stock.

The bolt handle should 100% float. Zero contact with any part of your stock/chassis.
 
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I would remove the barrel and put the action back in the stock so you can visually see the pin protrusion when firing. Aslo measure the protrusion at that point. .05 to .055
Im guessing a decent smith could look this build over for about 15 minutes and tell you what the issue is. Tough for diagnosis with half the build in your hands.
I recently stopped doing work like this, I get too many projects that are complete turds on the customer end and they think its my issue. Shocking how many guns are just tossed together not fitting even close to correctly. Unless I know and trust the customer that they can tell when there are issues with the fitment I wont do work without the whole gun and ammo to be used.