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Need help with my sbr/pistol build

Jeepguy97

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 14, 2017
352
35
Newaygo MI
Hey guys,
I need some help with my new sbr/pistol build. I just picked up a 11.5 inch barrel, and I would like to get a handguard that will cover as much of the barrel as possible. Just wondering what some of you guys have went with on your build. Any suggestions and pics would be greatly appreciated thanks guys.
 
All of mine are either substantially shorter or a little longer than that. You can search by length on Primary Arms’ site, might help you find what you’re looking for. I’m a Midwest Industries whore myself so I’d look there first.
 
9” barrel, 10” hand guard.

7073491


Same after paint.

7073492
 
I will second SLR as they offer a wide range of lengths and make excellent hardware.

Depending on your muzzle device you can go with a hand guard slightly longer than the barrel like @Shankin McStaby did. I have done that with very good results. The one thing to keep in mind is that the muzzle device cannot direct gas perpendicular to the barrel because that can cause issues with the guard.
 
I'll 3rd on the SLR rails, I own 2 helix rails, a friend owns 3 more. At 13.7 on my 14.5 has my can REALLY close to the rail, I like it.

Id assume the 10.7 would be perfect for your barrel
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I just looked up the SLR handguards they are really nice but a little out of my price range at the moment. Thanks for the info though.

Wait for Memorial Day. They will run a sale. SLR hand guards are finely machined, finished, and awesome.

Also, before buying the rail, make sure you have fully committed to your build profile. Do you want the barrel sticking out of the rail? Are you going to permanently tuck a can or flashcan/KX5 type thing under it so that it extends before the rail? Are you going to run it both suppressed and unsuppressed (and as such need to leave enough room for your can to clear the end of the rail with the muzzle device)? These things will all drive you to different rail lengths.

For what I hope are fairly obvious reasons, you do NOT want any sort of muzzle device beyond a flashcan/suppressor to be tucked under the rail. Your rail will thank you for not doing such a thing.

I've got three ARs with less than 16 inch barrels. They are LOUD and flashy without a muzzle device or suppressor.
 
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I’ll primarily will be running it suppressed, since my can is over 9 inches long I am starting to rethink the 11.5 inch barrel. I’m wondering if I should’ve went shorter. I think I have the handguard I want picked out it is the SLR 11 inch but with so many different options I may change my mind a few times lol
 
I’ll primarily will be running it suppressed, since my can is over 9 inches long I am starting to rethink the 11.5 inch barrel. I’m wondering if I should’ve went shorter. I think I have the handguard I want picked out it is the SLR 11 inch but with so many different options I may change my mind a few times lol


Im 95% sure a 11" rail with a 11.5" barrel will not allow you to mount a supressor on the end.

I would email the guys at SLR but I think you basically need .7-.8" to clear.

Heres a closer shot of the 13.7 with 14.5 barrel.

chrome_2019-05-07_15-37-12.png
 
I’ll primarily will be running it suppressed, since my can is over 9 inches long I am starting to rethink the 11.5 inch barrel. I’m wondering if I should’ve went shorter. I think I have the handguard I want picked out it is the SLR 11 inch but with so many different options I may change my mind a few times lol

If this is the case, then you need to factor in the add'l length you will need to clear the rail. Each suppressor mount will be different. So my suggestion is you start there....how much clearance do you need between the rail and the mount for your specific suppressor? From there, determine barrel length, then rail.
 
I’ll be running my silencer-co specwar that uses the asr fh after I mount that, that should put me at least 3/4 inch away from the handguard that’s if the measurements on slr website are accurate
 
Aero Precision? I use numerous handguards from them. They have a large ID, come in a variety of lengths, key mod/mlok/quad rail. I have a 15" on my 16" 5.56, 15" on my 20" .308, and the 9" quad rail version on a 10.5" 5.56. Comfortable and the price is right. Downfall, need their barrel nut or enhanced upper. (Not bad things though)
 
Depends on barrel IME. I got a Noveske 11.5 for example, and I can use a KAC 10.75" URX2 rail with it, but I got an "11.5" from Lilja and the threads began behind the tube! No way to get a mount or can on it. So I had to go with a 10" URX4.

Best to measure the barrel from end to end first or call 'em to find out what "11.5" means to them. Every half inch matters if you want the tube or rail as long as possible and sending crap back sucks.

11.5 is as short as I go with 5.56, some go 10.5, and that Lilja is an 11" 6.5G (that's a BADASS little SBR!). .300BLK you can take as short as 8 or 8.5. I have a Noveske 8.2 with a TBAC 30CB9 (the 9" prior to the Ultra) and it's handy and performs well with supers or subs, can or not. A .300BLK is just ideal for this but I gotta admit the Grendel is probably my favorite.
 
All right guys this might turn into a Grendel thread but what do you think of the PSA barrels? I just checked their website and I can get a complete 12” upper with everything for 329.99 I’m guessing I’m not going to get a one jagged accuracy but sub to moa accuracy would be find for that price point. Let me know what you guys think or should I just start a separate thread for it? Thanks guys
 
Good evening,

Here is another reference image: 10.5" Ballistic Advantage 5.56 barrel with Aeroprecision 9" Enhanced M-LOK and SiCo ASR ASR brake and Omega. Went with brake for sure on this one since it is always run suppressed and the brake acts as another blast baffle for can longevity. It is absolutely obnoxious the one round I fired unsuppressed. I dont find the ASR to be all that beneficial in the 'QD' role and I think I'd do direct thread if doing it all over again. It's lighter, shorter, and cheaper. Just have to keep the muzzle protectors from getting lost. DT would also give you the option to run the hand guard a little long if the ID allows to tuck the can inside if that's your thing.

Semper Fidelis,
Aaron
 

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All right guys this might turn into a Grendel thread but what do you think of the PSA barrels? I just checked their website and I can get a complete 12” upper with everything for 329.99 I’m guessing I’m not going to get a one jagged accuracy but sub to moa accuracy would be find for that price point. Let me know what you guys think or should I just start a separate thread for it? Thanks guys

I’ve got a bunch of PSA stuff and I generally like it *for the price* just don’t be expecting top-tier components and performance. You can definitely spend a lot more and get a lot less though, and kudos to them for that.

I’d dial back your expectations a tad — expecting consistent MOA to sub-MOA performance is a lot to ask from PSA gear. If you’re looking for the best performance PSA offers and not just the lowest price, make sure you get one of their CHF barrels that are made by FN. Worth the upgrade. Also, a good local smith will put all the parts together better than the assembly line at PSA will, so I’d order all the parts then carefully build it myself (receiver to extension mating is important) or get a good gunsmith to do it correctly.