i plan on building another hunting rifle and want either 30 nosler or 300 win. Not interested in the 300 rum, just mainly considering these two calibers. Thoughts?
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Nosler chamberings are too overbore. By the time you get your barrel broke in, a load worked up, and used to the rifle, youve already shot out 15%-20% of the throat. Maybe more. Most barrels dont "settle in" until around 200 rounds? And I assume this will be a long range (700-1000?) hunting rifle? Since it is such a large chambering. And to get solid dope for such extreme shots, you need rounds down the barrel. If this isnt for a long range hunting rig, choose less of an overbore chambering.
Or, use one of the 3, 300 mags you already own.
What do you mean when you say it's too overbore? The 26 and 28 noslers have been doing well, they are easier to reload than belted magnums and produce excellent velocities.
What do you mean when you say it's too overbore? The 26 and 28 noslers have been doing well, they are easier to reload than belted magnums and produce excellent velocities.
Just to throw fuel on the fire, have you considered the 7.82 Warbird? It shoots a 30 cal. I'm not impressed with the Nosler , my Warbird eats it for breakfast and barrels. I chambered it again using a Proof barrel. Im.getting 3124 using the 212 gr. ELD-X bullets. Brass life is about 8 firings or so. I was able to work up loads within 38 shots. After about 130 shots it has been speeding up. Anyways it out performs the Nosler. It's much cheaper to load your own of course. Just food for thought. Otherwise, stick to a .300WM. Or go 7mm SAUM.
My wife thinks I only have 3 guns
Not willing to sacrifice the ft-lbs for a smaller caliber. Where I hunt they hit the briars if you don't put them down.
I hit an 11 point whitetail this year at 306 yards with 300 win shooting 210 Berger vld and cut the arteries off the heart with the bullet, deer ran 30 yards, I want them to never take a step. There has been too many deer lost on this place. Hence my unwillingness to sacrifice ft lbs.
RWS as an average,makes robust brass(thickness/metallurgy).
I'd pull bullets,toss powder and drive an initial false shoulder...rather than be at the mercy of the belt.
Hint.
Drive an initial false shoulder? Please elaborate. The bullets in them are 184 rap-x and I have considered tossing the bullets, neck sizing and pushing some 178 eld-x in the. And leaving them long to make sure I am not hot on the charge.
I've killed a boat load of deer with many different cartridges, DRT is very unpredictable. If DRT is a necessity, brain/spine shots are the only guarantee.
Otherwise, use the appropriate round and learn to track fataly wounded game . There's not an animal on earth that can survive destroyed lungs , just may take a little extra effort to recover them .
You are simply doing the oldest of Sillywet moves and contemplating building Mexican Match,which is an ancient standby. Standard fare to yard out shit projectiles(typically MilSurp Ball Ammo) and replace same with a bullet of repute. Have done it bazillions of times,though my preference is to yank the expander and grab .003" of constriction with a bushing die,to add uniformity and reduce ES/SD.
A false shoulder is something very different and the best way to afford finite control of headspace. It involves bumping necks to a greater bore diameter and then bringing them back down partially and using a portion of the increased neck diameter as a positive headspaced shoulder to index Virgins with.
1000 words.
Using 308 donors to yield 243AI Virgin form loads. As a rule,I tend to source Virgins in a greater bore size when possible,just for finite headspace control,out of the gate. Precision is bolstered as is case life.
Belted cases are amongst the worst offenders in excessive headspace Virgins.
Hint.