Need some help with my 6.5 setup. Please.

[taulce1]

Setting up my 6.5 and it's time to buy some rings. I have a 20MOA base. I have a Tangent Theta on the way. Decided to go with a Spuhr ISMS. I've done the math and I know the size rings I need.

[rail height + ring height] - [bell diameter x 0.5]

[11.1125mm + 25.4mm] - [65mm x .5] = 4.0125mm or about .15" of clearance.

With the 20 MOA base and the 103 MOA of adjustment in the TT, am I able to max out the capabilities of this rifle? Should I purchase a Spuhr with a 10 MOA cant 20 MOA of cant? Or is the 20 MOA base enough with that particular scope? I will be shooting this rifle as far as I possibly can take it.

 

[Bradu]

I would do a 20 moa mount as well giving you a total of 40 moa with that scope

 

[jasent]

I would agree. 40 moa for that scope. Once you reach the limits of your gear your going to want to push it farther.

 

[GIXXER2000]

On my AI i am using a 20 moa base and 20 moa Spuhr. I was able to zero a 100 yards and i still had 1.9 mills i could go lower. The left me with 24.9 mils i can dial up on my 5x25 S&B. I can now dial out past a mile with the 6.5cm.

 

[Alpine 338]

You may want to reconsider how you view your desire to shoot out as far as possible. A TT will far exceed the capabilities of your 6.5, assuming you have a 6.5 Creedmoor? I shoot the 6.5x47L and only use 20-moa of slope. With a S&B 5-25, I have plenty of elevation travel in my scope.

First off, you will want to run some ballistic calculations. See where your cartridge and/or bullet will go subsonic, add maybe 10% to that distance, and determine what your drop is based on that distance.

Yes, you can go to the extreme (s) of getting the most travel out of your scope by adding the maximum amount of slope with a rail and/or mount. But I would only do that with a true ELR rifle where you typicaly are shooting a cartridge that meets or exceeds the capabilities of your scope. And regularly shooting at those distances.

The problem of having a traditional scope at either end of it's elevation travel is you start to get shadowing at either the top or bottom of your scope image, this can cause problems on how you view the image and target in relationship to eye placement behind the eyepiece, and cheek placement on the stock. As you adjust elevation, you will notice your eye placement and cheek placement will change, and if you don't recognize or pay attention to the change, you may be missing your target because of alignment errors.

Also, since you haven't ordered a mount yet, take a look at the Near Alpha mount. Near MFG will make you a mount any slope, ring height, and ring size you want or need. They are in my opinion the best scope mounts made, and will cost less than the mount you mentioned. Plus they are stronger and lighter. www.trg42.com

FYI - people use the term "Cant" when discribing the addition of elevation to a rail or mount. The proper term is "Slope".
"Cant" is the other axis that moves the left or right roll orientation.

 

[taulce1]

Thanks for the input gents. Also thanks for the education on cant vs slope @Alpine 338.