Okay I'm stumped. I got a new remington 700p 338 lapua with a vortex viper 6.5-20x44. I loaded 300 grain bergers with 86 gr of H1000 and the bolt was getting stuck. And I have been reading alot on this website and people are loading 90 gr and even more. So I bumped down the load to 82 and 82.5 gr of H1000 and the groups were horrible like 3" at 100. I also loaded some 250 grain accubonds with 84 grains of reloader 22 and again the bolt was sticking and that shouldn't be even close to max. Anybody have any ideas fill free to share them. I haven't ever shot this bad and this gun is supposed to shoot.
new 338 lapua
- Thread starter noack920
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Re: new 338 lapua
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: noack920</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Okay I'm stumped. I got a new remington 700p 338 lapua with a vortex viper 6.5-20x44. I loaded 300 grain bergers with 86 gr of H1000 and the bolt was getting stuck. And I have been reading alot on this website and people are loading 90 gr and even more. So I bumped down the load to 82 and 82.5 gr of H1000 and the groups were horrible like 3" at 100. I also loaded some 250 grain accubonds with 84 grains of reloader 22 and again the bolt was sticking and that shouldn't be even close to max. Anybody have any ideas fill free to share them. I haven't ever shot this bad and this gun is supposed to shoot. </div></div>
I don't know what to tell you?
How experienced are you at shooting? Reloading? What brass? What dies? What is your procedure for loading ammo? Is the rifle broken in? What are the specifics of your ammo? What is the COAL?
I guess I could just say that that combo sucks in that rifle, or that you're just not a good shot, but I really can't say with the info you've provided.
Berger 300s probably aren't the best place to start, when benchmarking your rifle.
Chris
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: noack920</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Okay I'm stumped. I got a new remington 700p 338 lapua with a vortex viper 6.5-20x44. I loaded 300 grain bergers with 86 gr of H1000 and the bolt was getting stuck. And I have been reading alot on this website and people are loading 90 gr and even more. So I bumped down the load to 82 and 82.5 gr of H1000 and the groups were horrible like 3" at 100. I also loaded some 250 grain accubonds with 84 grains of reloader 22 and again the bolt was sticking and that shouldn't be even close to max. Anybody have any ideas fill free to share them. I haven't ever shot this bad and this gun is supposed to shoot. </div></div>
I don't know what to tell you?
How experienced are you at shooting? Reloading? What brass? What dies? What is your procedure for loading ammo? Is the rifle broken in? What are the specifics of your ammo? What is the COAL?
I guess I could just say that that combo sucks in that rifle, or that you're just not a good shot, but I really can't say with the info you've provided.
Berger 300s probably aren't the best place to start, when benchmarking your rifle.
Chris
Re: new 338 lapua
Those bullets are more tolerant to seating depth than a true VLD would be, but you're still going to need to work up a seating depth for them.
You should pick the lowest powder charge recommended in the loading manual and load up a seating depth test before you do charge weight testing.
Once you figure out where the bullet likes to sit, you'll be in good shape to set the charge weight. If you do it the other way around you're pissing up a rope.
Those bullets are more tolerant to seating depth than a true VLD would be, but you're still going to need to work up a seating depth for them.
You should pick the lowest powder charge recommended in the loading manual and load up a seating depth test before you do charge weight testing.
Once you figure out where the bullet likes to sit, you'll be in good shape to set the charge weight. If you do it the other way around you're pissing up a rope.
Re: new 338 lapua
what is the barrel twist? My TRG-42 in 338 lapua cant stabilize the 300 grain bergers. That could be why you are getting such lousy groups - are you seeing any key-holing on the target?
what is the barrel twist? My TRG-42 in 338 lapua cant stabilize the 300 grain bergers. That could be why you are getting such lousy groups - are you seeing any key-holing on the target?
Re: new 338 lapua
Reloading for a new gun should be approached a bit more cautiously.Just because x grains of y powder works in my AI doesn't mean your gun will shot without pressure signs. A stuck bolt is a PRESSURE SIGN.
Is the brass new? Shooting a 338LM at 100 yards and proclaiming the gun "doesn't shoot" because your groups are poor is going to be a source of frustration.
In my experience loading the 338LM for over 6 years is that if you are developing long range ammo-you have to test at 200yds minimum-preferably 300 or farther.
86gr. of H1000 is a near max load-that is just a conservative "estimate" from Quickload-which we can't share data publicly as per forum rules.
Depending on the chamber,seating depth,coal etc is ALOT of variables that exist between rifles. My advice-get the Sierra loading manual or buy quickload. Start with conervative loads. DO NOT chase the rifling. A safe load with the bullet jammed into the lands CAN show pressure signs. Load at magazine length-BUT CHECK YOUR CHAMBER using a stoney point type gauge or by making a dummy round so you KNOW EXACTLY where the bullet 's ogive is relative to the rifling.
338LM is not a hard cartridge to load for-but it IS NOT as inherently accurate as a 308. A half moa load at 100 yards does not equate to a 1/2 moa at longer ranges. I also agree that the Bergers aren't a good starting point.
250Sierra matchkings will be accurate in ANY twist barrel in 338LM. H1000 or Retumbo SHOULD provide good results. How good? I have no idea-a factory barrel can be a toss up. Good Luck.
Reloading for a new gun should be approached a bit more cautiously.Just because x grains of y powder works in my AI doesn't mean your gun will shot without pressure signs. A stuck bolt is a PRESSURE SIGN.
Is the brass new? Shooting a 338LM at 100 yards and proclaiming the gun "doesn't shoot" because your groups are poor is going to be a source of frustration.
In my experience loading the 338LM for over 6 years is that if you are developing long range ammo-you have to test at 200yds minimum-preferably 300 or farther.
86gr. of H1000 is a near max load-that is just a conservative "estimate" from Quickload-which we can't share data publicly as per forum rules.
Depending on the chamber,seating depth,coal etc is ALOT of variables that exist between rifles. My advice-get the Sierra loading manual or buy quickload. Start with conervative loads. DO NOT chase the rifling. A safe load with the bullet jammed into the lands CAN show pressure signs. Load at magazine length-BUT CHECK YOUR CHAMBER using a stoney point type gauge or by making a dummy round so you KNOW EXACTLY where the bullet 's ogive is relative to the rifling.
338LM is not a hard cartridge to load for-but it IS NOT as inherently accurate as a 308. A half moa load at 100 yards does not equate to a 1/2 moa at longer ranges. I also agree that the Bergers aren't a good starting point.
250Sierra matchkings will be accurate in ANY twist barrel in 338LM. H1000 or Retumbo SHOULD provide good results. How good? I have no idea-a factory barrel can be a toss up. Good Luck.
Re: new 338 lapua
One does not just start thowing powder and expect good results, what you need is a procedure that will dial in a load.
A) Choose One bullet, One posder, One set of Cases, and One primer.
B) look up the min and max loads in at least 3 reloading reference books
C) start at min, and work your way up towards max in 1% increments making one cartrige at each step
D) shoot these looking only for signs of pressure
E) once you have found pressure, demill anything over the point of pressure.
F) starting 3% below pressure make a batch of 5 shots at each step of 0.2gr up to but not including the point of pressure.
G) shoot these for groups
H) pick the best group and then run a sweep at 0.1 gr from the first lower and first upper from the best group. Here we are trying to find how wide the Charge Weight window is. Shoot for groups and record the width of the window.
You should always be watching for pressure on your own reloads, every day, every shot, every case.
One does not just start thowing powder and expect good results, what you need is a procedure that will dial in a load.
A) Choose One bullet, One posder, One set of Cases, and One primer.
B) look up the min and max loads in at least 3 reloading reference books
C) start at min, and work your way up towards max in 1% increments making one cartrige at each step
D) shoot these looking only for signs of pressure
E) once you have found pressure, demill anything over the point of pressure.
F) starting 3% below pressure make a batch of 5 shots at each step of 0.2gr up to but not including the point of pressure.
G) shoot these for groups
H) pick the best group and then run a sweep at 0.1 gr from the first lower and first upper from the best group. Here we are trying to find how wide the Charge Weight window is. Shoot for groups and record the width of the window.
You should always be watching for pressure on your own reloads, every day, every shot, every case.
Re: new 338 lapua
Here comes the curveball,
is that scope of yours proven and tested elsewhere?
Unless so I would not rule out that as a part in the total sum of your less than stellar results.
/Chris
Here comes the curveball,
is that scope of yours proven and tested elsewhere?
Unless so I would not rule out that as a part in the total sum of your less than stellar results.
/Chris
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