New Guy Questions!

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Furtaker2506

Private
Minuteman
Sep 29, 2020
25
15
#1
Hey everyone, Iv been one to just lurk in the background and read posts. I joined to have better access and to get better at putting bullets where I want them. I recently ordered a Remington 700 police in 300 wm - 5r, 24" barrel - threaded, 1-10 twist. I also bought an athlon cronus btr 4.5-29x56 in Mil. 34mm tube. I have some questions...

I was looking at a seekins or badger 20 MOA rail - do I need the 20 MOA (obvioulsy I want it to be as versatile as possible) - it seems as if this is all seekins offers? Will this optic dial down enough for a 100 yrd zero?

I was looking at seekins or badger rings - what height do you think I should buy?

Muzzle device, I was thinking an APA little bastard - yeh or neh?

Any advice on a quality thread on suppressor for it?

Also, finding a supply of factory ammo is like trying to bottle unicorn tears right now, when it does become available does anyone have a factory load that shoots well from this rifle?
Any load data for this rifle would be great as well once I start reloading this cartridge.

Again, I am new to the long distance game so if I said anything that was stupid feel free to let me know, im not not easily offended. Just looking for accurate info to better my shooting and get this rifle set up the best I can. I only have experience with ARs, hunting rifles, shotguns and bows (25-06, 223, 6.5 creedmoor - 300 yrds and under)

Thanks!
 
#2
Badger or Nightforce rail, 20 MOA is fine, 30 if you can find one. No problem with obtaining a 100 yard zero.

Rings: Badger, Nightforce, ARC. at an appropriate height.

I’d run a muzzle device that is compatible with your suppressor when you select one. Threaded interface or QD, as long as it’s a reputable design, it will work well for you. TBAC, Surefire, Dead Air to name a few.

FGMM or Black Hills 190g loads shoot well in most win mags. Hand loading can really make it shine. H1000, RE25/33 are good powders for most 190+ grain projectiles, magnum primers are still somewhat available. Brass/bullets can be found in the PX as well as the usual retailers.
 
#3
The APA brake is great but once you get a can the brake is gonna come off, so you’re only gonna get about 10 months out of it.

20moa rail is fine.
For ring height, get the dimensions of the scope and do some math, figure how high the rail and rings will sit to see how much clearance the obj lens will need.

Load data is everywhere, just search for it.
 
#5
I found that Winchester 180 grain ballistic silver tip and Nosler Trophy Grade 180 accubond factory ammo shot as good or better than any precision handloads I put together.
So don't dismiss those as an option if you can't find anything else.
The APA little bastards are a very popular muzzle brake but if you plan on running a suppressor you might take a look at the Area419 Hellfire so you can use both the brake and the adapter for a suppressor.
The Badger 20moa maximized steel bases are very good but you may need to get bed it or any other you decide on to the remy reciever
 
#6
I was thinking about getting a surefire brake (I have a few ARs with surfire brakes/flash hiders) however I wonder about its actual recoil reduction ability on a 300 compared to something like the APA? It would make it simple to buy 1, 30 cal. supressor and be able to use it with all of the muzzle devices I currently have...
 
#7
Furtaker2506 said:
I was thinking about getting a surefire brake (I have a few ARs with surfire brakes/flash hiders) however I wonder about its actual recoil reduction ability on a 300 compared to something like the APA? It would make it simple to buy 1, 30 cal. supressor and be able to use it with all of the muzzle devices I currently have...
Click to expand...

IMO, having owned and use/used SF brakes they won’t be as effective as the APA. I’d prob hold off until you get a can in hand before running anything else beyond the APA before then.
 
#8
As far as mitigating recoil? There’s no question the brake is better than a suppressor in this regard. Having shot the APA LB a bunch, I’ll be the first to admit it works really well.

However, when it comes to bolt guns I’m a bit biased as I use a can 100%. I’ll sacrifice a little recoil to not deal w/ the concussion / blast of the brake. The recoil impulse is more of a push than a short snap w/ a brake. Both mitigate recoil but the brake does so better than a can.

DISCLAIMER: I’m also using a Surefire brake & RC2 can. I don’t think the RC2 gets the credit it deserves. It sounds good (IMO), QD mount provides for repeatable zero & its been problem free for the few years I’ve owned it. I’ve heard all sorts of horror stories w/ QD mounts on a bolt gun & I’ve never had issues w/ my zero being inconsistent, etc. That being said, there are lots of other companies that make quality cans as well. Do your research & buy what will best suit your needs.
 
#10
IMG_4028.PNG

Thanks to everyone who answered some of the questions I had, here is the completed rifle.
 
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#11
For the muzzle brake look at the Area 419 self-timing brakes, you can get an adapter for the can and have QD functionality if you're planning on going back and forth because cans are great for hearing protection but recoil reduction is minimal.

Muzzle Devices Archives

NOTE: The HELLFIRE and SIDEWINDER systems CANNOT share parts. IE: The use of a HELLFIRE suppressor mount on a SIDEWINDER adapter is impossible.
www.area419.com www.area419.com
 
#12
I’m having what I think is an issue? This rifle will group 2-3 shots fairly well in succession at 100 yards ~1moa, after that, it goes to hell; 2-3” groups at 100, 5-6” groups at 200. I have tried various types of ammo. Black hills 190 gr, federal match w 215 gr Berger, Winchester 180gr power point. Not sure what’s going on...
 
#15
Furtaker2506 said:
I’m having what I think is an issue? This rifle will group 2-3 shots fairly well in succession at 100 yards ~1moa, after that, it goes to hell; 2-3” groups at 100, 5-6” groups at 200. I have tried various types of ammo. Black hills 190 gr, federal match w 215 gr Berger, Winchester 180gr power point. Not sure what’s going on...
Click to expand...

300 win mag is not exactly a mild recoiling cartridge even with a brake. Could it be that you're getting fatigued and tensing up or even flinching?
 
#16
308pirate said:
300 win mag is not exactly a mild recoiling cartridge even with a brake. Could it be that you're getting fatigued and tensing up or even flinching?
Click to expand...

I doubt it, IMO it recoils less than some other calibers I shoot regularly that aren’t braked. I kind of thought about barrel heat but that seems pretty intense...do you really need to wait for 20 mins for it to cool down to have an accurate rifle again?
 
#18
Furtaker2506 said:
I doubt it, IMO it recoils less than some other calibers I shoot regularly that aren’t braked. I kind of thought about barrel heat but that seems pretty intense...do you really need to wait for 20 mins for it to cool down to have an accurate rifle again?
Click to expand...
No one ever admits to flinching, until someone puts a snap cap in their magazine.
 
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#25
Perhaps check barrel/stock clearance cold, and then again when your groups open up. I had a Tikka that touched only when hot, and it killed accuracy. Opened up the barrel channel a bit and it was cured, but, I also never shoot that hot (can hold my hand on the barrel without burning).
 
#26
Mirage can shift the image also, can be from the ground or your own barrel. I usually zero my rifle early on the day. I've been in competition where the mirage is so bad where I have to shoot my target at a very low magnification to hit my target. I tried it out before to see how bad mirage will shift impact, was pretty surprised with a 2" shift at 200 yards trying to shoot on high magnification and mirage.
 
#28
Furtaker2506 said:
Won’t burn you with a quick touch, but ya can’t keep your hand on it for long
Click to expand...

This is too hot. Factory barrels can have stress in them, which when heated will make the barrel shift. Also I'm guessing you have some pretty good mirage with that heat.

As recommended above check the clearance on your barrel when cold and hot.

HOWEVER, with that rate of fire im guessing you will re replacing the barrel sooner then later, so go with a good barrel and it will eliminate that as a variable.

Good luck.
 
#29
I got my Remington 700 Police in 300WM a few years ago. It really shined with my handloaded Hornady ELD-X 212 grain bullets and H1000. In my opinion the 300WM really gets to show its potential with heavier, say 210 grain and up bullets. Also as much as I wanted to like the factory stock, it has its limitations. I run mine in an Accuracy International AT chassis now and it is so much better.

1606117269712.png

(Before it was rebarreled and had a MARS rail put onto it.)
 
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