New Guy Suppressor Tips

alamo5000

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Jun 18, 2020
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I am posting this up as a 'tip' thread for the new suppressor owners. Feel free to comment or add other 'tips and tricks' that you may have found useful. Keep in mind this is geared towards the relatively new suppressor owner.
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I have two rimfire cans and both have been a little bit neglected so to speak. I have shot them quite a bit and have gone quite a while in between cleanings. Keep in mind that the same things listed below can apply to 9mm cans as well. Getting the cans apart is a bear once you have old baked on carbon. This includes getting booster assemblies and so forth apart. So what to do?

First thing I will say is what NOT to do. Hammers, channel lock pliers and so forth are off limits, like forever when it comes to suppressors. For one the teeth on regular channel lock pliers will gouge pretty much anything you clamp down on so don't even go there. If anyone ever uses channel locks on your suppressor, you should use those same channel locks to rip out their fingernails. :)

In other words, use the correct tools for the job. The last thing you want to do is mess up something that costs so much and you have to wait so long for. Generally speaking banging on a suppressor is a bad idea.

Never force anything, especially depending on the construction of your can.

In my current situation I can use BoreTech C4 (carbon eliminator) to fill up and/or treat the can until I can get it apart. This also will soften up hard, baked on carbon and make it easier to clean when I put the baffles in a tumbler later on(which you may or may not do depending on what your baffles are made out of). In my case though I have several bottles of Seal 1 and several bottles of Froglube that I don't really use that much anymore so I used those. They cut carbon pretty good actually. It just takes time.

Having some plugs like the ones in the link below come in mighty handy when you are trying to not make a massive mess and/or conserve your cleaning supplies. Also note that if you are trying to get a booster assembly apart (for example) you don't need to soak the entire can. Just use liberal amounts enough to work on the part you need help with.


With that pack I can plug either end of my cans and work accordingly.

Long story short is to use a carbon cleaner of your choice and be patient. It might take a few hours of maybe even a day or two depending on the situation. I personally would caution against using 'the dip', CLR, or some other home brew, but that's just me. Pretty much most of the advertised for use on guns appropriate cleaning solutions will eventually do the trick and you can use them without fear.

Any other tips/tricks or comments please post them below.
 
My 22rf suppressor is all stainless. When it gets loaded up I'll dump the whole thing in a benchtop solvent tank containing Ed's Red and let it soak usually over night.After that I can push the baffles out with a dowel pretty easy. The baffles and end caps the go into a baggie and filled with CLR just enough to cover and then put into a ultrasonic tank for about 15 min. Everything usually comes out spotless. FWIW.
 
Always check concentricity of the can mounted on your muzzle device / barrel. Cheap "alignment rods" can be purchased through McMaster Carr...DO NOT waste you're money on something marketed as a "suppressor alignment rod"!!


Guide:



Text from the guide:

  • 2031" - P/N 8893K187 - Good general purpose rod for 22 caliber suppressor alignment - should work well for distinctly undersized match .22LR bores (think CZ452/455 at .210-.212" bore diameter), but otherwise may be a slightly loose fit;
  • .212" - P/N 8893K191 - Better fit for many standard 22 caliber bores (.22LR at .217" bore diameter, .223/5.56 at .219" bore diameter, etc.)
  • .250" - P/N 8893k204 - Good fit for 6.5mm Creedmoor/Grendel bores (.256" bore diameter);
  • .295" - P/N 8893K217 - Good fit for 7.62x39, .308, 300BLK and most Western 30 caliber bores (.300" bore diameter)
  • .339" - P/N 8893K229 - Good fit for 9mm (.346" bore diameter)
  • .4219" - P/N 8893K252 - Slightly looser fit for .45 ACP (.442" bore diameter). Stepping up to a .4375" rod (P/N 8893K254) may generally work, but could be too tight for rare cases.
 
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the only thing you should transport your new can in dry ice effect optional
 
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The tax stamp gives the ATF the right to sniff you're wife's underwear (or husband's in the case of the OP), any time they want, so make sure she washes them regularly.
 
Cover the inside if the can with pure silicone oil or Dot5 brake fluid. Don't leave a tone of excess but make sure it's all coated. It will make cleaning the can simply wiping off the carbon with a paper towel. It smokes like crazy the first 2 or 3 shots but then goes away completely and is the single best tip I've ever gotten on here. Works really well. Cleaning cans can be a real pain and this trick makes it super easy and only take a min.
 
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Don’t touch the can after shooting. Even a few shots can bring a suppressors temp up to well above boiling temp.
It may sound obvious, but a lot of cans out there have a nice protective layer of skin on them from people forgetting this.
Even rimfire and pistol? ;)