PRS Talk New guy with a couple questions..

[Netman8718]

I’ve decided to start shooting PRS type matches. I live near Redbrush in Indiana and they have monthly matches. Redbrush has a maximum range of 500 yards.
Here’s my plan. I own a old Remington 700 22-250 that was owned and accurized by a local gunsmith. It shoots tiny groups. My plan is to buy a NF scope and mount it on the old 700 and use it for the local matches. Shoot the barrel out and then have it rebarreled in a 6mm??? along with a brake.
I’ve looked at buying a RPR or Tikka already set up but decided to put the money into a top end glass. Then as I get better I can buy or build a top end rifle. I’ll already have a scope to mount on it.
Then if I decide I’m not wanting to continue shooting these type matches I can put the scope on one of my 264 Win Mags for out west hunting.
I’m in the process of loading up some of the heavier.224 bullets to see what my rifle likes above the 55 grain bullets it loves.
My questions were along the lines of what you think of a 22-250 in 500 yard or less range matches?
Also would a 5-25x56 NXS be enough scope to grow into later down the road?
Thanks

 

[Alpine 338]

Just about every match has a speed limit to protect the steel. Never have I seen it above 3200-fps. Your 22-250 will likely exceed the speed limit. And you most likely have a 1-12 twist barrel, so you cannot shoot the heavier bullets at a lower speed. Also, some matches limit the bullet size to no smaller than 6mm. Check with the Match Director or the club that runs the range, and ask about those details.

You may be forced to either have the barrel replaced and/or rechambered to another caliber(22-BR?), or buy another rifle.
As far as 6mm, realize most are barrel burners, and I would suggest looking at other calibers also.

For scopes, there are good deals to be had, and I would suggest getting a FFP scope for this game. 20X power is the most you'll ever need. The NXS series scopes although bomb-proof, the glass is much less than desirable, plus they are SFP. Trust me, I've owned a few.

Honestly, with nothing selling right now on the Hide, I'm seeing killer deals on rifles and optics right now. It's a buyer's market.

Good luck, and keep asking questions.

 

[DFC]

The Rem 700 in 22-250 has a 1-14 twist and that limits the bullet weight to 60 and a reduced charge to stay under the speed limit. Trade it for a 243 Win and smile as you shoot it. The 243 has a 1-10 twist so it will not shoot the real long low drag bullets, but it will shoot up to 100's for enough to get past the 500 yard mark. That should keep you within your budget.

 

[Netman8718]

Well I got the scope locked down. I bought a Vortex Razor HDGen ll 4-27x56.
Now to get a rifle...

 

[DrainTheSwamp]

I’d go to the match and at least spectate before you make a rifle choice.

Sounds like you got the scope figured out, that will certainly work just fine.

You may be able to sell your rifle and trade up to another rifle for the cost of rebarreling and buying a different chassis/stock that runs AICS mags and accepts all the cool gear you’ll eventually want but didn’t know you’d want if you would not of went and spectated a match or two.

 

[Netman8718]

Drain
I went to a shoot a couple weeks ago and observed. I asked the match director also a shooter quite a few questions. They had all the stages printed out on a sheet of paper for each shooter. I picked one up as there were plenty. I made handwritten notes on the stages info paper and my notebook. I spoke to a couple of the shooters who seemed to be more advanced. They gave me pointers along the lines of ... three slow shots with hits are better than ten misses. Also you don’t need a ton of gear for this type of shooting.
I could see instantly that the 308 shooters were dealing with recoil and having difficulty spotting their misses. Most of the shooters were shooting 6BR or 6 Dashers. Several with 6.5 Creedmoor. Also several.243 shooters. There were 34 shooters that day.
I could see that there were better muzzle brakes than others.
I had my 10x binoculars with me to see the wind at the targets and if the shooter was hitting the target in the center or on the edge.
I watched guys struggle to get in position and others drop right in and be on target.
My weakness will be in knowing the size of the targets as some were reduced in size.
I’m currently studying up on MRAD and learning the mil system.

 

[Rutter]

Netman8718 ,
I totally see where you are coming from. With the thoughts of building on your existing action. I too was going to do that, and still may in one capacity or another. To start out my story on this. I called one very well known company about straight out building a gun for us. The gun I wanted was in the .224 V. They literally shut me down in the first five minutes of the conversation saying they were not interested in doing anything with this caliber. Okay....
So decided I was going to use a Rem 700 SA that I had on hand. I have done so much research that my eyes are feeling like welder burn from reading so much. I know all the cost that go into the blueprint option 300$, then there is the trigger if you decide to upgrade that too 150$ Oh and don’t forget that you need to buy a new bolt for the .224 Well that’s another 300$ From here you got to buy the barrel 800$ Plus like you said a scope $1800 to 2500$ if you’re lucky. Oh last but not least don’t forget the chassis. Cause you know your stock rifle stock isn’t going to set well at these deals. So now you’re into it for another 1000$
After all this you hope that this thing will shoot down range like a laser cause well of course you put all this time of thought and money into it. If you are killing them shots you made a bang up decision. If not you have nothing to fall back on. Why because you started on a Rem 700 action that no one will standby. Just food for thought.
Like I said before I too am starting a build. Here is what has been decided, do it once and do it right. Starting with the Origin action price worthy. Then going with the ACC chassis, simply for all the adjustments and I like different since everyone already has the MPA. Besides if I treat that chassis right I should have it for other builds if I do choose to carry on with this precision stuff.
Trigger hoping for a B&A if I can find one. Then to finish it off with a solid barrel. If this thing doesn’t shoot then someone will have to standby this dang thing. If I hate the way it feels then I’m seriously going to sell the darn thing. Also like you said watching those others fight recoil and this thing should have basically none. Starting out in a new sport the least amount of resistance is the best path.
Sorry for making this into a novel just food for thought. In my case.

 

[Netman8718]

I appreciate everyone’s thoughts! I asked my wife for a rifle for Christmas. She told me to go buy one and get what I want. She has no clue I have a Razor on order.?
So now what to do? I really don’t want to go hog wild and buy a custom. I’m looking at a Tikka or RPR. I had held both and really like the RPR. They make one in 6 Creedmoor. Grabagun has one for $780 right now. They were $740.
I have also handled several top tier rifle systems. I like a couple of those too but would rather start out with a factory rifle with good optics.
The one restraint I have looming in the near future is drawing for elk and mule deer tags out west. I drew six tags last year and filled them in two states. This year I’m drawing in three states. I need to keep my funds under control as I recently retired(forced due to a heart attack) at 53 yoa. If it wasn’t for my mountain fix the rifle would be the easiest part.
Soooo....

 

[JimLee]

I appreciate everyone’s thoughts! I asked my wife for a rifle for Christmas. She told me to go buy one and get what I want. She has no clue I have a Razor on order.?
So now what to do? I really don’t want to go hog wild and buy a custom. I’m looking at a Tikka or RPR. I had held both and really like the RPR. They make one in 6 Creedmoor. Grabagun has one for $780 right now. They were $740.
I have also handled several top tier rifle systems. I like a couple of those too but would rather start out with a factory rifle with good optics.
The one restraint I have looming in the near future is drawing for elk and mule deer tags out west. I drew six tags last year and filled them in two states. This year I’m drawing in three states. I need to keep my funds under control as I recently retired(forced due to a heart attack) at 53 yoa. If it wasn’t for my mountain fix the rifle would be the easiest part.
Soooo....

I bought a 6.5 Creedmoor RPR and I really like it, I got lucky and got a real good factory barrel and with some handloading OCD I can get 1/4 MOA groups out of it, but I think this is the exception rather than the rule with RPR's. I think it is a perfectly suitable entry level PRS rifle. I have been training to go shoot a match with it in the spring. An RPR doesn't have the fit and finish of the customs out there, and they are heavy and bulky, but they are pretty good at their price point. I don't own a Tikka but they are wildly popular and i'm sure some others will tell you that's probably the way most more experienced guys would go. Of course I may have recently accidentally committed to buying a MPA BA at a really good price, ooops, don't tell my wife..

 

[Alpine 338]

Take a look at what Remington offers in their model line with detachable AICS mags. The pro with the Remington is it's easy to upgrade, and there's a ton of equipment offered with it. With the RPR, you are limited. Which Tikka, if one of the T-3 variants, you can't go wrong there.

I would go with the 6.5 over the 6 based solely on barrel life and down range energy (for hunting).