The trigger issue is common to Savage Accutriggers. You need to make the trigger pull weight a little bit heavier. The safety is not the problem. The trigger decocks when jarred, such as by closing the bolt firmly. As others mentioned, the Accutrigger is also very sensitive to pressure on the trigger bow, instead of the blade. If you touch the trigger bow first, the trigger decocks, and the bolt has to be cocked again. That's part of the safety mechanism of the Accutrigger. Other triggers that are set too low will actually fire the round if the bolt closes too firmly. (Never chamber a live round at home, or if the barrel is not pointed at a safe target.) The Savage simply decocks, and is almost immune to slam-firing. Do not mess with anything on an Accutrigger except the pull weight. I would never replace an Accutrigger with anything else, because they are about the best there is, and near the top of the list for safety. On another note, I realize you have an excellent H-S Precision stock, but even those can benefit from being bedded. When bedding a Savage action, tend mainly to the front, and make sure the entire tang at the rear is free of stock contact. The rear trigger guard screw is useless, so it does not need to be at all tight. If you throw it away, that will keep it from falling out and getting lost. The factory barrel can shoot as good as any. Lots of F-class shooters use Savage. I have seen a 600 yard record string fired with a Savage, although that rifle had an aftermarket barrel. You made a good choice. Do you reload? If not, start working on it. Handloads can be the difference between 3/4" groups and 0.3" groups. You can start with cheaper bullets like the Nosler or Sierra 140 gr., which will work fine in competition out to 600 yds. For 1,000 yds, the Berger or JLK 140 gr. is more competitive, due to less wind drift.
