New Member Rem 700 Build Help

[John B.]

Hi,

My name is John and I joined just today; I bought a Remington 700 SPS in 300 win mag (left handed) and since it’s my first real deal rifle I’m going all out trying to customize it and I know I don’t need a lot of the things I’m getting, merely personal preference and a new hobby of mine; here’s a list of the things I bought so far and I’d like to hear what you guys would recommend, or your opinions on what I have so far:
Timney Elite Hunter Trigger
Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24 x 50 scope
Atlas Bt46 Bipod

As you can probably tell this isn’t a budget gun and that I’m also very much single haha I’m trying to set it up for hunting/long range shooting; whitetail in Texas maybe 200 yards away and even though I don’t have much experience I’m pretty sure this is a bit overkill, but I’ll get a smaller caliber specifically for deer eventually; I would love a custom hardwood stock and if anyone could point me in the right direction for one that isn’t over 1k I’d greatly appreciate it.

Best regards, John

 

[John B.]

Welcome John, lots of good advice here, just have thick skin because sometimes the members will make you work for relevant info lol, joys of the internet age.
Budget is all relative, but like any hobby you get what you pay for, so get the best you can for your budget, But allow enough to spend on reloading components because regardless of your price point a very large percentage of shooter cant out shoot their factory stock rifles. So lots of range time.

Timney makes a good trigger( though I used a 700 PSS for many years with stock trigger)
Vortex, great optics, but if your single then go ahead and pony up for a Nightforce, S&B, Kahles,
Atlas makes great bipods, but don't discount the good old standby Harris or or more expensive Elite Iron, Thunderbeast
The 300WM is a little overkill for whitetails IMO, but you could tune the load down for the smaller game deer.

My advice is to stick with the composite stock, they are durable and it wont make you cry when the rifle slides down a barbed wire fence and screw up your
really nice grained hardwood stock lol

Good luck and have fun,stay safe!

From what I’ve seen Nightforce is single and loaded haha as for the wooden stock I wouldn’t mind scratches, like the character of it; I need a sling as well. I believe I have all the big ticket items to put this thing together myself; thanks for the welcome!

 

[John B.]

What part of TX you in?

My uncle lives in Texas and I’m going with him to his lease but I could find out; I’m from Louisiana

 

[Rob01]

Good trigger and also good bipod. The scope is on the lower end of the Vortex line but usable to get you going. You can use it but if you wanted to go higher end then look at the Razor II and AMG line in Vortex. They are right up there with the others.

As for the stock, I agree to stay away from wood if you don;t have your heart set on it. Wood can collect moisture and swell and cause accuracy issues. Not seen in short range hunting rifles shot a couple times a year but if you want this as a long range rifle then go with something else. You can get the wood look without the downsides with a dip. Below is my 7mmRM with a Manners T3 stock that was dipped to look like wood. It was done by the previous over so not sure of all the details. But if not needing the wood look or wood then go with a quality stock like the Manners or others. Lots out there. But if you needed wood they are out there too. On the cheaper side there are the Boyd's. The have laminate which is better than standard wood.

 

[Foul Mike]

Are you into re-loading yet or have friends or family members that are? That will help you a lot but trying to get into it now is very hard as there are very few components around, let alone factory ammo.
How much shooting do you plan on doing each year? and what do you consider to be long range? 200 yds. is where a lot of zeros are set as to people who shoot long range, but hey, you have to start somewhere.

 

[John B.]

Good trigger and also good bipod. The scope is on the lower end of the Vortex line but usable to get you going. You can use it but if you wanted to go higher end then look at the Razor II and AMG line in Vortex. They are right up there with the others.

As for the stock, I agree to stay away from wood if you don;t have your heart set on it. Wood can collect moisture and swell and cause accuracy issues. Not seen in short range hunting rifles shot a couple times a year but if you want this as a long range rifle then go with something else. You can get the wood look without the downsides with a dip. Below is my 7mmRM with a Manners T3 stock that was dipped to look like wood. It was done by the previous over so not sure of all the details. But if not needing the wood look or wood then go with a quality stock like the Manners or others. Lots out there. But if you needed wood they are out there too. On the cheaper side there are the Boyd's. The have laminate which is better than standard wood.

View attachment 7438043

Thanks for the advice; I’ve had my eye on a McMillen A10 stock but I was quoted 4 to 6 months build time

 

[Rob01]

Thanks for the advice; I’ve had my eye on a McMillen A10 stock but I was quoted 4 to 6 months build time

Quality stocks can take time to make as there are many others in line as well. They are also being made to your spec. That said you can keep an eye on the for sale section in the lefty section and see what pops up also.

Sniper's Hide PX: Left Hand Sales

Lefties Rejoice a dedicated section for you

www.snipershide.com

 

[b2lee]

Welcome John!

Since it isn't my money You like wood look?... How about a Foundation Stock in Long Action ? If you really want to shoot long range....you will find out that you need to stay away from wood. Love the look...but it has too many issues that affect long range accuracy. Stock linked is about $1200.

Scope: Buy the best you can afford....since you are single...learn to love Ramen Noodles and offbrand peanut butter and get on a savings plan with @CSTactical and get you a ZCO 5-27x56 Scope. I have one...and it was worth every minute of suffering through salty noodles.

You didn't say if your muzzle was threaded. A good muzzle brake is a must to hold you on target so you can self spot your long range hits and misses. A lot of people don't want to hunt with muzzle brakes...I don't understand that....I hunt with electronic earpro and turn the volume up so I can hear my prey walking/eating/snorting...and it protects me ears from the shot. If you don't have a threaded muzzle and don't want to send your barrel off to get threaded... check out a Witt Machine Clamp on muzzle brake. I have one on a 700 SPS in 308...and it took away about 60% of the recoil...making it a very soft shooter.

Then...practice....practice....practice....and when you burn the barrel out...get a new one and chamber it in 300 PRC

Have fun with the rifle....and welcome!

 

[John B.]

Are you into re-loading yet or have friends or family members that are? That will help you a lot but trying to get into it now is very hard as there are very few components around, let alone factory ammo.
How much shooting do you plan on doing each year? and what do you consider to be long range? 200 yds. is where a lot of zeros are set as to people who shoot long range, but hey, you have to start somewhere.

I’m 22 years old and just getting started, definitely plan on doing reloading but I don’t have the equipment as of yet; I’d like to learn to shoot up to 1000 yds

 

[John B.]

Welcome John!

Since it isn't my money You like wood look?... How about a Foundation Stock in Long Action ? If you really want to shoot long range....you will find out that you need to stay away from wood. Love the look...but it has too many issues that affect long range accuracy. Stock linked is about $1200.

Scope: Buy the best you can afford....since you are single...learn to love Ramen Noodles and offbrand peanut butter and get on a savings plan with @CSTactical and get you a ZCO 5-27x56 Scope. I have one...and it was worth every minute of suffering through salty noodles.

You didn't say if your muzzle was threaded. A good muzzle brake is a must to hold you on target so you can self spot your long range hits and misses. A lot of people don't want to hunt with muzzle brakes...I don't understand that....I hunt with electronic earpro and turn the volume up so I can hear my prey walking/eating/snorting...and it protects me ears from the shot. If you don't have a threaded muzzle and don't want to send your barrel off to get threaded... check out a Witt Machine Clamp on muzzle brake. I have one on a 700 SPS in 308...and it took away about 60% of the recoil...making it a very soft shooter.

Then...practice....practice....practice....and when you burn the barrel out...get a new one and chamber it in 300 PRC

Have fun with the rifle....and welcome!

I’ll check it out in a minute I’ve been coming down a mountain in AZ haha ever wondered how to make a 66 mph truck go faster?

 

[John B.]

Quality stocks can take time to make as there are many others in line as well. They are also being made to your spec. That said you can keep an eye on the for sale section in the lefty section and see what pops up also.

Sniper's Hide PX: Left Hand Sales

Lefties Rejoice a dedicated section for you

www.snipershide.com

I don’t mind the wait time and it’s understandable, definitely looks like a good one considering I’ve only ever wanted hardwood stocks

 

[John B.]

Welcome John!

Since it isn't my money You like wood look?... How about a Foundation Stock in Long Action ? If you really want to shoot long range....you will find out that you need to stay away from wood. Love the look...but it has too many issues that affect long range accuracy. Stock linked is about $1200.

Scope: Buy the best you can afford....since you are single...learn to love Ramen Noodles and offbrand peanut butter and get on a savings plan with @CSTactical and get you a ZCO 5-27x56 Scope. I have one...and it was worth every minute of suffering through salty noodles.

You didn't say if your muzzle was threaded. A good muzzle brake is a must to hold you on target so you can self spot your long range hits and misses. A lot of people don't want to hunt with muzzle brakes...I don't understand that....I hunt with electronic earpro and turn the volume up so I can hear my prey walking/eating/snorting...and it protects me ears from the shot. If you don't have a threaded muzzle and don't want to send your barrel off to get threaded... check out a Witt Machine Clamp on muzzle brake. I have one on a 700 SPS in 308...and it took away about 60% of the recoil...making it a very soft shooter.

Then...practice....practice....practice....and when you burn the barrel out...get a new one and chamber it in 300 PRC

Have fun with the rifle....and welcome!

You brought up a good point and that’s if my barrel is threaded or not, it is not; is it possible for me to get it threaded?

 

[b2lee]

You brought up a good point and that’s if my barrel is threaded or not, it is not; is it possible for me to get it threaded?

Yep...just find a gunsmith and it is a pretty easy job. To be honest...on your first barrel...and first attempt at long range...I'd just get the clamp on brake...they are not cheap quality. I know many people that have one and they work good.

 

[John B.]

Yep...just find a gunsmith and it is a pretty easy job. To be honest...on your first barrel...and first attempt at long range...I'd just get the clamp on brake...they are not cheap quality. I know many people that have one and they work good.

I agree, I plan on shooting a lot to answer another member’s question, so I may as well wait and buy one that’s already threaded. Thanks guys.

 

[Foul Mike]

Run what you have. Get a Witt clamp on brake and see how you like it. Not a high buck item but be sure of your measurements when you order. I like mine on my 308 Sporterized Mauser 98, Fajen stock I fitted myself close to 60 years ago. That was a big job for a teenager but I bought a barreled action, all matching, in 8mm and needed a stock before I could shoot it. I didn't know what I would be up against until the stock came in the mail and had a tiny 1/2" groove down the center of this big plank of fine walnut wood. To say the least, it was not a drop in.
There were no gunsmiths in my area so I read everything I could find and went to whittling. Always start in the center and work your way out, the outside of the stock comes second. Inletting, fit and finish of putting the action and barrel in the stock is foremost. Final finish comes later and you do what you want to do then.
I shot the original 8mm barrel out but harvested a lot of meat doing so, it fed my family.
With the original barrel shot out I had it re-barreled to .308 and it is still my favorite rifle. I have many others.

More than likely, the barrel you now have will shoot better than you can but will give you a place to start.

Once you are serious about shooting and have all of your ducks in a row as to how you feed this rifle, ie reloading, or a source for ammo and you know in your heart that the barrel is not up to your skills, then think about a new barrel. Until then, Run what you have, re-barreling will follow along as needed.

I scream like a mashed cat when I have to re-barrel but know it is part of the game. I put a few thousand rounds down range a year.

At age 22, you have a lot to learn about a lot of things. I wish I was 22 now and had everything I know now to run with.

The Hide is damn sure a good place to learn about everything shooting related.
I wish something like this had been around 60 years ago. I would not have made so many mistakes nor wasted my money on things I didn't need.

 

[John B.]

Run what you have. Get a Witt clamp on brake and see how you like it. Not a high buck item but be sure of your measurements when you order. I like mine on my 308 Sporterized Mauser 98, Fajen stock I fitted myself close to 60 years ago. That was a big job for a teenager but I bought a barreled action, all matching, in 8mm and needed a stock before I could shoot it. I didn't know what I would be up against until the stock came in the mail and had a tiny 1/2" groove down the center of this big plank of fine walnut wood. To say the least, it was not a drop in.
There were no gunsmiths in my area so I read everything I could find and went to whittling. Always start in the center and work your way out, the outside of the stock comes second. Inletting, fit and finish of putting the action and barrel in the stock is foremost. Final finish comes later and you do what you want to do then.
I shot the original 8mm barrel out but harvested a lot of meat doing so, it fed my family.
With the original barrel shot out I had it re-barreled to .308 and it is still my favorite rifle. I have many others.

More than likely, the barrel you now have will shoot better than you can but will give you a place to start.

Once you are serious about shooting and have all of your ducks in a row as to how you feed this rifle, ie reloading, or a source for ammo and you know in your heart that the barrel is not up to your skills, then think about a new barrel. Until then, Run what you have, re-barreling will follow along as needed.

I scream like a mashed cat when I have to re-barrel but know it is part of the game. I put a few thousand round down range a year.

At age 22, you have a lot to learn about a lot of things. I wish I was 22 now and had everything I know now to run with.

The Hide is damn sure a good place to learn about everything shooting related.
I wish something like this had been around 60 years ago. I would not have made so many mistakes nor wasted my money on things I didn't need.

Thanks for the good advice; there’s been a few things mentioned so far I have no idea about and “rebarreling” being one of them; to take a guess once the rifling starts to wear out you get someone to rebarrel it and change it to another caliber? Also I’ve been scratching my head if I made a good call by buying a rifle that can shoot out the box and making changes to it vs just an action and barrel, wondering if the latter would’ve been considerably more difficult for a novice

 

[Jscb1b]

The Witt machine brakes are 90 bucks plus tax. I have them on a 7mm RM and .300WM. I ordered mine and had them in hand under two weeks.

 

[Baron23]

Can the SPS synth stock take pillars and bedding?

I found my 5R SS in the factory provided HS stock benefited from bedding, though it comes w a full length bedding block so did not have to do pillar install.

Even w the bedding block, the action had very little contact w the block as it came from the factory.

 

[b2lee]

I wouldn't go custom right out of the box....you may buy a fancy rifle that costs a lot of money....and be afraid to shoot it...to work it...to scratch it....afraid to make it happy. Going with a solid tool like a 700 and getting out there in the dirt and putting in some work....invaluable. Don't buy a custom barrel and burn it out practicing and doing load development. A custom barrel should be used to win with...not learn fundamentals with......unless you got a boat load of money.....but then you'll get into reloading.....and spend more money on that stuff than the price to buy a small Caribbean Nation.

 

[Rob01]

Thanks for the good advice; there’s been a few things mentioned so far I have no idea about and “rebarreling” being one of them; to take a guess once the rifling starts to wear out you get someone to rebarrel it and change it to another caliber? Also I’ve been scratching my head if I made a good call by buying a rifle that can shoot out the box and making changes to it vs just an action and barrel, wondering if the latter would’ve been considerably more difficult for a novice

Well that is something you will figure out over time. We all have done it and gone from factory to buying parts and putting them together etc. The for sale section here is a good place to get cheap rifles, barreled actions and parts too. Honestly a magnum is not a good choice to get into this game for numerous reason from recoil, cost of ammo and availability of match ammo. But you have it so shoot it until you get a smaller caliber.

The Witt Machine brakes do work good. As mentioned make sure to measure it well. I have one on a 7mm RM and it cuts recoil great. Here's a pic of the one I put on.

 

[Jscb1b]

Double up on ear protection too.

 

[Foul Mike]

I took very careful measurements and my Witt clamp on fit closer than I would have imagined.
Careful measurements.003, as close as I could get.
Stuck it on the muzzle with a bit of Hoppe's 9 and oil and the fucker popped on tight enough that I do not run the screws very tight. Just enough.

I think they may be moving as workers rust the bottom out of the buckets used to collect pee here in Colorado.

Where ever they go I wish them the best and I would not hesitate to order tomorrow.

 

[USMC22]

Take a class and stock up on ammo. Work on the fundamentals and the rest will come.

Buy torque wrenches in inch pounds and learn how to properly install and set up a scope. Be careful where you have it mounted if you go that route.

 

[John B.]

Take a class and stock up on ammo. Work on the fundamentals and the rest will come.

Buy torque wrenches in inch pounds and learn how to properly install and set up a scope. Be careful where you have it mounted if you go that route.

I purchased a gun vise and the wheeler deluxe screwdriver set or something like that, pretty sure it’s what you’re referring to but I could be wrong; only thing I’m at a loss on is figuring out if I need medium or high scope mounts, I plan on using a picatinny rail and if I understand correctly you want the scope as close to the barrel as possible, but not touching... hence the confusion

 

[Rob01]

Close to the barrel is old hunter way of thinking. Makes no difference height for accuracy but you being comfortable behind the rifle is what counts. With the 50mm scope a set of .92” high rings should work fine and keep it at a height where you can get behind it comfortably. If it’s a little high then get a stock pack to add some height.

 

[bonifacio]

First thing is that damn bolt knob.
I like Seekins scope rings.
I have a Magpul Hunter 700 I need to rehome.

 

[Steel head]

Hi,

My name is John and I joined just today; I bought a Remington 700 SPS in 300 win mag (left handed) and since it’s my first real deal rifle I’m going all out trying to customize it and I know I don’t need a lot of the things I’m getting, merely personal preference and a new hobby of mine; here’s a list of the things I bought so far and I’d like to hear what you guys would recommend, or your opinions on what I have so far:
Timney Elite Hunter Trigger
Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24 x 50 scope
Atlas Bt46 Bipod

As you can probably tell this isn’t a budget gun and that I’m also very much single haha I’m trying to set it up for hunting/long range shooting; whitetail in Texas maybe 200 yards away and even though I don’t have much experience I’m pretty sure this is a bit overkill, but I’ll get a smaller caliber specifically for deer eventually; I would love a custom hardwood stock and if anyone could point me in the right direction for one that isn’t over 1k I’d greatly appreciate it.

Best regards, John

I started with that scope.
It’s not bad and got my first 1000 yard hit.
Get a decent set of rings like seekins.

 

[John B.]

What caliber rifle do you guys recommend I buy next to practice with? I’d like something that’s multi purpose, smaller caliber of course and cheaper to shoot

 

[loveha]

What caliber rifle do you guys recommend I buy next to practice with? I’d like something that’s multi purpose, smaller caliber of course and cheaper to shoot

Nothing like a good 308. It's not hard on barrels and will last a long time. It's not new, or fancy and been around forever. I would take .308 over 6.5CM because it's not as flat shooting and wind resisting. So good to learn wind and drop. Recoil is more, but then again you bought a WinMag, not something I would have bought first. The two calibers are very close in price though. It's just 6.5CM you're looking at barrel life of roughly 2,500 where 308 is, shit, I don't know. It's a lot, I know that. If you are going to reload though, then maybe just do .260 Rem, or even .260 AI. Two calibers you will need to build the gun because you are not going to really find off the shelf.

 

[b2lee]

Grab a 308....you are 22....and when you turn 62...you can finally rebarrel it....maybe...it will probably still be shooting good.

 

[spife7980]

What caliber rifle do you guys recommend I buy next to practice with? I’d like something that’s multi purpose, smaller caliber of course and cheaper to shoot

A creed case is the easy button answer, especially for a newer guy. Barrel life isn’t as good as a 308 like mentioned above but 3000 rounds is still a shit load and it’s much more pleasant to shoot for an entire day and is actually competitive, without being in the handicap class, if you do go to a match. Once you go short action you probably won’t touch that win mag much.

 

[Rob01]

Grab a 308....you are 22....and when you turn 62...you can finally rebarrel it....maybe...it will probably still be shooting good.

Unless he actually shoots it. My .308 is in its 7th barrel. LOL

 

[b2lee]

Unless he actually shoots it. My .308 is in its 7th barrel. LOL

I gotta buy you a guide for your cleaning rod....you are beating that 308 barrel up

 

[Rob01]

I gotta buy you a guide for your cleaning rod....you are beating that 308 barrel up

Lol not the rod but the bullets wearing them out.

 

[John B.]

Haha funny thing is I bought the 300 win mag knowing dang well I shouldn’t for reasons mentioned, should’ve came here first to get talked out of my bullheadedness; oh well I’m convinced enough to buy another rifle in 2 weeks or so; idk if I’ll go with another 700 or not

 

[Jscb1b]

The R700 has a shit load of upgrades for it. I've always been a fan. And now that Remington has filed bankruptcy and been sold, mine have become collectors items.

 

[loveha]

If you are going to do another rifle, may as well do something custom if you are going to go ahead and want to change a bunch of stuff.
The sky is the limit when it comes to that scene.

 

[John B.]

The R700 has a shit load of upgrades for it. I've always been a fan. And now that Remington has filed bankruptcy and been sold, mine have become collectors items.

Damn did this happen recently? I heard they were having problems but not that they filed bankruptcy and sold; it’s one I know that I can get in a left handed configuration so I might, should be a breeze fixing up the same rifle again haha

 

[John B.]

If you are going to do another rifle, may as well do something custom if you are going to go ahead and want to change a bunch of stuff.
The sky is the limit when it comes to that scene.

True, but I’m by far not a gunsmith and had no idea if that was within my current capabilities; if it’s just putting things together without a whole lot of tinkering then I could handle something like that

 

[loveha]

Are you mechanically inclined?

If so, you do not need a gun smith. Just a barrel vice, action wrench, and a torque wrench.
There are actions that take prefit barrels, or savage nuts.
There are even quick change options, that do not require a barrel vice.
Such as a Terminus Zeus https://terminusactions.com/product/zeus/
Or ARC with the BARLOC https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/barloc-10
Recommend getting an ARC action with the Barloc.

Depending on your action and method of barrel attachment, you will need Go/No Go gauges.
I like to think if you can torque a lug nut, you can torque a barrel. Of course there are those that shouldn't be holding a torque wrench.

 

[John B.]

Are you mechanically inclined?

If so, you do not need a gun smith. Just a barrel vice, action wrench, and a torque wrench.
There are actions that take prefit barrels, or savage nuts.
There are even quick change options, that do not require a barrel vice.
Such as a Terminus Zeus https://terminusactions.com/product/zeus/
Or ARC with the BARLOC https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/barloc-10
Recommend getting an ARC action with the Barloc.

Depending on your action and method of barrel attachment, you will need Go/No Go gauges.
I like to think if you can torque a lug nut, you can torque a barrel. Of course there are those that shouldn't be holding a torque wrench.

Yep this sounds like something I could do; I was thinking more on the lines of having to file, cut, grind, etc something