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New PRS rifle

D

DoubleOught-BMA

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Minuteman
Dec 18, 2018
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#1
Howdy hide! This is my first thread... so go easy if I break any unwritten rules! Love the site and yall have become my go-to source for real world data. So... after shooting several PRS matches with my savage stealth, I'm ready to kick it up a notch. I've budgeted around $5.5k all-in for a rifle that will be used almost exclusively for PRS. Thanks to the lengthy and very detailed optics threads, I've landed on a Minox ZP5 (MR4 reticle) for glass. Budget another $500 for rings, base and a brake and I'm in the $2k range for the rifle (already have an atlas bipod). I was originally looking at the Bergara HMR Pro but there was a thread on here where some concern was raised about the action screws coming loose. A quick internet search confirmed the same phenom from other users... although the hide crowd generally dismissed it as rare. OK then... I feel better and have little reservations about this gun.

Then I stumbled on the John Hancock rifle. Looks like a solid semi-custom gun for my price point. The only problem there is I cant seem to find any real world user data. Has anyone shot this yet?? Another thread mentioned the Badrock and MPA precision rifle. I really like the look and feel of a Macmillan a5 style stock vs chassis though... so I'd prefer to do something other than a chassis gun. (doesnt have to be a Macmillan... just similar)

So... any recommendations for a shooter around $2k? I can spend a little more if it gets me something that much better. Also- for what its worth, I am a handloader and Im leaning towards 6mm. Again... I really love this site and the knowledge yall bring to this sport. Thanks!
 
#2
put together your own.

Bighorn Origin or similar actions around around $850 (comes with 20moa base)
Barrel - $450-500ish (even cheaper if you find one slightly used on here)
Trigger - under $200 ($160 for Timney CE)


you don't need to spend $500 on rings and brake. good rings suitable for PRS you can get for $100-150
brakes are around $150.

put the rest toward a stock/chassis
 
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#3
A criterion savage prefit can be had for 300 or 375(threaded muzzle) from NSS. I've used 12 -15 of them on my rifles or friends rifles that I put together for them and they will flat shoot with my barts and kriegers. I just put one on a tl3 action, 7.5 tw 243win 26", its shooting in mid .2s with 110smk @ 3110fps. Confirming dope at 810yds a week ago, shot one 5 shot group and it was 2.7" including 1 shot I called low adding 1" to group size. I've got 1500 in my barreled action, not counting cg Jackson or optics. You base that on an origin and you are at 1150
 
#4
Ok... so two recommendations on putting together my own. You'll have to excuse my ignorance here but what does that entail? Will I need a competent gunsmith or is this something I can do? I'm assuming a gunsmith... I mean... how do these custom rifle builders stay in business if guys can assemble 1/2 moa guns themselves? If this is something I can do then I'm all for it. If a gunsmith is required then im sure that will get expensive and probably blow my $2-2.5k budget, correct?

I'd like to go new with whatever I do so not really looking into used gear. Other than that... totally open minded on the issue. I just never considered putting something together myself and therefore know little about what to expect.
 
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#5
these actions we are speaking of accept Pre-fit barrels. so you order up a prefit barrel from any number of barrel makers and you install it yourself.


you just need headspace gauge(s), the barrel nut, an action wrench for the barrel nut, and an action vice.

sure you might have to shell out a few more dollars for the tools up front. but then you will have them for your next barrel swap.

$20-40 for a headspace gauge
$30 for barrel nut wrench (wheeler)
$70 for action wrench (wheeler)
$35 for NSS barrel nut

all this and still maintain sub 1/2moa rifle if you do it properly and buy quality parts
 
#6
I’m pretty new to this style of rifle as well. My summary answer to your post directly above is that you still use a gunsmith to do the chambering of your barrel, but standalone chassis systems and chassis integration to traditional stocks (think manners mini-chassis) have removed considerable work from the fitting of bottom metals and actions to stocks. Some will tell you that there is downside to that versus traditional full bedding and fitting, I’m not knowledgeable enough to say either way.

In your scenario my choice would be a used MPA stock with a barreled action from a well known gunsmith. If you don’t want to fool with any assembly, the John Hancock and MPA full rifles are the best options at the $2k mark.
 
#7
I like the pva barrel nut, its 25 bucks and I can use a 11/4" crow foot on a torque wrench. It is a bit longer nut so it blends in nicer that nss savage looking nuts. I use a wheeler barrel vise, pva action wrench, and crowfoot/torque wrench. A ptg go gage is needed to headspace off of. Antisieze on threads, screw nut all the way forward on barrel, then thread barrel partway into action. Stick go gage in chamber and close bolt, I had fp removed during this step. Screw barrel in until it stops, snug barrel nut against receiver face and torque to 45ft/lbs. You can verify headspace by making small circles of feeler gage in .001, .002, .003, .004 thickness. Leave go gage in chamber and then place one of the feeler gage circles on bolt face. Close the bolt, if it closes with no resistance, keep swapping feeler gage circles until resistance is felt, or the bolt will not close at all. It will be somewhere between .001-.002, the barrel nut takes the slack out of threads and will usually add .001-.002 to go gage length. If you have any more in depth questions PM me.
 
#9
reubenski said:
Have you seen the Havak Bravo? I was on Seekins site the other day; out some stuff in my cart but then wandered off. They sent me a cart reminder email with a %15 discount. That puts the $1950 rifle at 1657! Talk about a killer deal! It's offered in 308, 6.5 Creed, 6 Creed, and 6.6 PRC.

If not a good deal like the above I would advise spending the extra and making sure you get a quality action. The Origin or Nucleous will allow you to use budget prefits from a number of places that are all capable of PRS wins. I THINK the MPA is built on a Rem 700 action aren't they? I'd pay a little extra for a quality action.

I know you said you preferred a stock over a chassis but I'd urge you to consider the MPA chassis. They are the only stock or chassis I haven't had to bed. Any that uses the V bed doesn't support the rear action screw and will impart stress. So you're pretty much going to have to pay $200 for skim bedding for anything else. Also bottom metal and an arca rail and now you're at $1200 for the equivalent in a stock. Additionally the MPA has so many features designed in it. There is a whole family of accessories available for it.

Here's my rational:

Origin $850
Keystone or PVA prefit $550 (average)
TT Primary $150
MPA BA Comp $900

$2500
Click to expand...

The MPA BA series is built with a Curtis Custom Axiom typically. MPA does produce some with other custom actions as well. The PCR series from MPA uses a trued and lapped Remington action.
 
#11
tsu45 said:
My summary answer to your post directly above is that you still use a gunsmith to do the chambering of your barrel
Click to expand...
I don't think you understand what a prefit barrel is.

The chamber is 100% done when you get it. You set headspace by adjusting how far you thread the barrel into the action (with the aid of a set of go/no go headspace gauges) and then you lock the barrel position with a lock nut.

Obviously that's a super abbreviated description of the process, but the point is that there is no trip to the gunsmith involved
 
#13
308pirate said:
I don't think you understand what a prefit barrel is.

The chamber is 100% done when you get it. You set headspace by adjusting how far you thread the barrel into the action (with the aid of a set of go/no go headspace gauges) and then you lock the barrel position with a lock nut.

Obviously that's a super abbreviated description of the process, but the point is that there is no trip to the gunsmith involved
Click to expand...

I understand what both a savage style prefit and shouldered prefit are. You are still having someone else chamber the barrel in either style, which you acknowledge in your first sentence by stating the chamber is 100% done when you get it. Not sure where the miscommunication is.
 
#14
tsu45 said:
I understand what both a savage style prefit and shouldered prefit are. You are still having someone else chamber the barrel in either style, which you acknowledge in your first sentence by stating the chamber is 100% done when you get it. Not sure where the miscommunication is.
Click to expand...
The miscommunication lies in that I took your post to mean that one had to send the barrel for chambering after purchase.
 
#15
Ok... I'll look into the build thing some more. But... if I take the path of least resistance the JHR looks solid from a components perspective, right? Any naysayers? Or... any votes of confidence for the JHR?
 
#16
MPA comp chassis $800 new (hide vendor, limited colors ) used $700-$750
Impact action used $1000-1200 new $1390
New bartlin 6mm creedmore prefit barrel (also 7 other 6mm offered for the same $ at core shooting.com , $750 u can install yourself)
Diamond tech trigger, $240 (only trigger used last year that according to reports, didn't have trouble in dusty conditions. ) Will find out for myself this year
little B brake $100-120 used $160 new
rings $150-$400 depending on brand
scope, (huge offerings) anywhere from $1400- to infinity ( but buy used) no need to invest in brand new
i'm at $5610 in mine i just built, i went with a used Kahles 624 skmr 3, was able to get a used like new one for $2100. could have saved another $400 on the action if a certain hide member had gotten ahold of me before i purchased a new one :) The only new items on mine were the action, barrel, & trigger, though several other items were unused. Went with the impact action as u can buy off the shelf barrels u can install urself that shoot , Went with 6mm creedmoor because u can buy pretty decent factory ammo. Will go thru barrels a little quicker than some other 6mm calibers, but the use of factory ammo if i need it, make's it attractive.
I could have shaved another 1200+ off this pretty easily and still had a great shooter
 
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#17
DoubleOught-BMA said:
Ok... I'll look into the build thing some more. But... if I take the path of least resistance the JHR looks solid from a components perspective, right? Any naysayers? Or... any votes of confidence for the JHR?
Click to expand...

The JHR will likely be a solid choice. PVA makes great stuff. The problem is the wait. Orders started the beginning of this year and only the first few have been delivered.
 
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#18
I would get a bighorn action. (I have one and its amazing!)
Then call Northlands Shooter supply and talk to them about ordering a prefit savage thread barrel with all the tools. ( ie headspace gauges receiver vice, barrel nut)
Order the barrel in your choice of caliber and profile.
I wouldn't not knock on the krg bravo I used it before getting a McMillan. It worked perfect solid bedding adjustments including length of pull and cheek weld. Already has built in mag well. Just buy the ambi mag release.
Keep an eye out the the exchange for a use quality scope at a great deal. (I saw some great deals on razors)
Triggertech has great triggers .
Take your time building it. Ask plenty of questions for clarity .
Feel free to message me if you like
 
#19
Ok folks- great feedback! So now I'm thinking about just using my existing Razor Gen ii on the new build and now using the $3k I had budgeted for a new minox to go into my rifle budget for a total of $5k. That puts me in a GAP rig. Buy once; cry once. The only downside is that I wont have a second optic for my gas gun but that can be a 2020 purchase. I think I'd rather have one really good gun that I can count on for a long time. Again- a big thanks to the hide for helping me rationalize something I wanted to do anyway!! :p
 
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#24
Lots of good suggestions in this thread.
I would definately recommend putting your own custom rifle together. The prefit barrels and savage nut style actions make it very easy.
I had never done anything like that up until a few years ago and once you spend 1/2 hour to 1 hour doing your first one, you start putting custom barrels on everything you can in just a few minutes.
I just bought a couple Nucleus actions and they are awesome. The Barloc barrel nut system makes setting the headspace even easier than a regular barrel nut.
 
#25
DoubleOught-BMA said:
Ok folks- great feedback! So now I'm thinking about just using my existing Razor Gen ii on the new build and now using the $3k I had budgeted for a new minox to go into my rifle budget for a total of $5k. That puts me in a GAP rig. Buy once; cry once. The only downside is that I wont have a second optic for my gas gun but that can be a 2020 purchase. I think I'd rather have one really good gun that I can count on for a long time. Again- a big thanks to the hide for helping me rationalize something I wanted to do anyway!! :p
Click to expand...
LRI if you want a new build. He is weeks out not months. As good or better than a Gap. @LongRifles Inc. can make a seriously excellent rifle at that price point. And Chad will not blow sunshine up yer skirt either. Top tier builder.

Have a look at some of his work.

3EF0E989-CB68-4FFA-979F-234D12D51475.jpeg
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2C9D90AF-3579-4715-BAD2-EC4CD3C986B4.jpeg
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#28
If you already have an optic laying around, there’s a AI AT with a sfp (bushing, but still fine) in the PX for around 3300.

Sell the 308 barrel (to me?), the bipod and spigot, and buy whatever barrel you want.

You’ll be in an AI rig for around $3300
 
#29
reubenski said:
I would seriously question if you could get a better rifle by going thru a big name Smith than simply putting one together yourself. I screwed together this rifle and it consistently shoots under an inch at 300yds.

TL-3 - $1250
MPA chassis - $900 shipped
TT Diamond - $250 off the PX
6 Dasher barrel- $800, Local Smith (who is no joke and chambers an awesome barrel) chambered the barrel; I screwed it on.
PVA Jetblast bought second hand for pretty much nothing.

$3300 total and put together in about 20 minutes. Installing the trigger requires you to punch 2 pins. One Allen screw adjusts pull weight. Torqued the barrel on with a crescent wrench. The muzzle brake is self-timing. There really isn't anything to putting it together.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The only reason I’d use a builder is if I was using something other than a chassis. I can bed my own, but there are some builders that do such a good job bedding, I get them to do it.

I typically let them put the barrel on the action, but I’m pretty close to my smith.

Other than that, I buy everything myself and assemble it. You’ll save around 500-1k by doing this.
 
#30
If you are a regular wage earner doing a DIY is definitely the way to go.

People assume that when you get a custom rifle from a shop that it'll be perfect, I can assure you this is not always the case.

I hate to say negative things but one shop mentioned in this thread did a full build on a certain friends family heirloom M700. The cartridge hits pressure way early before getting to a medium load. I recommended this shop but am reluctant to again. It's my friends fault he hasn't sent it back but for the money he paid I expected a near perfect rifle.

Another shop for another friend did a barreled action, for whatever reason the rifle has never shot as good as it should have??? Same thing, that friend won't send it back either. We've changed scopes and trouble shot all the other things and are stumped at what the problem is???

Another friends custom rifle, a small shop known for excellent work, the rifle works great, looks great, etc, but it's a 3/4" rifle on a good day with a lot of load developement put into it. That friend is frustrated and talking about either selling it or having another barrel done. His Tikka CTR shoots better.

Me, I waited almost a year for one of mine from yet another shop. The rifle turned out okay but I can still point out where workmanship fell short and no small amount of money was spent. The GS did a good job where it counted but didn't in the other details.

Bad luck, maybe so, but I'm soured.

I DIY'ed the last one. Sure you have to learn some things but it's not a hard project putting a rifle together. My plan is to stay with prefits whenever I can. I can buy two Shilen select match prefit barrels for the price of one premium barrel plus the gunsmith work needed. This current prefit barrel is amazingly accurate, more so than the last one which was a big name premium shouldered barrel that shot well.

When doing a DIY things might not go perfect either. You can always turn to a GS at that time.
 
#32
For me the only downside to a pre fit and it is not always the case,if the gunsmith has your action in hand and can spin you up some barrels he can/should be able to clock/time them to point to the same position,be it 12.00 or whatever,barrel OD’s aren’t always perfect with the bore,again I’m not sure what the go is with current prefits as this may be happening.
I can go from my 308 barrel to 6.5 creed and not a single click of windage is needed,when I confronted my gunsmith on how this is possible that is what he told me.Now this is great for me because I swap out barrels frequently but for a diy looking to save some bucks on a rifle it doesn’t matter.
 
#33
Hey folks! Well... you all have given me a ton to think about. I started looking at chassis options and the JAE jumped out. Damn that thing looks nice! I know its heavy... but I'd say I'll be doing (at most) 10% offhand shooting... probably less. I dont mind the weight. So to confirm, if I order a chassis, barreled action (impact or bighorn) and trigger... I can easily assemble this thing myself? Anything I'm missing or shortchanging by going DIY vs gunsmith on a barreled action chassis build?
 
#34
DoubleOught-BMA said:
Hey folks! Well... you all have given me a ton to think about. I started looking at chassis options and the JAE jumped out. Damn that thing looks nice! I know its heavy... but I'd say I'll be doing (at most) 10% offhand shooting... probably less. I dont mind the weight. So to confirm, if I order a chassis, barreled action (impact or bighorn) and trigger... I can easily assemble this thing myself? Anything I'm missing or shortchanging by going DIY vs gunsmith on a barreled action chassis build?
Click to expand...

If the barreled action is already assembled, yep, it’s that easy.

Bolt it in the jae chassis (action screws are captured), torque to 65 INCH lbs, put your optic on, and shoot.

Oh and put trigger in. With impact, you put the trigger in the hanger and then screw the hanger into the action.
 
#36
DoubleOught-BMA said:
Also- for what its worth, I am a handloader and Im leaning towards 6mm.
Click to expand...
Lot's of great advice already on the other choices. I don't think anyone has mentioned 6mm. I went with 6XC back in the day and don't regret it. I'm not an expert reloader and I don't have to be with this round. I have always had rounds that hit steel... never had any surprises or big lessons.

I would probably go with 6CM now due to the great factory ammo available. You never know when you are going to have a busy week before you want to go shoot for the weekend. Having a case of factory ammo on standby is an excellent luxury.
 
#38
If I were the type that would rather buy than build and preferred stocks over chassis, I’d look real hard towards GA Precision’s production class rifle they released. I think its called the PPR. $2,500
 
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