New Reloading Room (photos)

Subwrx300

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Minuteman
Jan 15, 2014
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Cedar Springs, MI
Decided that I didn't have enough space for my gear in my reloading room: I've always cramped for workspace and storage areas. Our basement flooded and we needed to put in new flooring, so it was a perfect time to remodel/rethink my reloading space!

Before remodel, I had a single 48" bench for reloading, 36" desk (for work work) and a 48" fly tying bench (which I removed) for a total of 11' of work space and only a few linear feet of storage. With the new bench, I created one continuous work bench on two full walls for a total of 20' of work bench linear, plus two levels of storage for a total of 60' of workbench and storage. Used 12' 2x4's and 3/4" Plywood (pre-sanded). I will put details on how to duplicate my method below for those interested.

I used the simple hanger+mirror method to build the bench in about 6 hours total work but that includes relocating and organizing gear. Here are a few highlights and photos. Features I designed into space when building:
  • Split location computer monitors for work and reloading data.
  • Separate areas for Reloading, Gunsmithing/cleaning, Brass Bullet Storage
  • Additional lights for detail work
  • Cleaning Rod Storage hanger
  • Hat Rack! Finally

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Workstation and reloading area on right; allows me to look up load data, netflix, log measurments, etc, while without moving back and forth between areas.
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Gunsmithing/cleaning area: dedicated tool areas and ample length for cleaning long rifles.
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Powder/Bullet/Brass Storage: extra lighting and plenty of storage. Will be adding a grid of 8"x 8" x 8" storage cubbys for specific calibers and bullets later.
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HAT RACK! Best idea I've had in a while:
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To build this Bench the fast way:
  1. Screw 2x4's level and flat lengthwise at proper heights desired finished height of your levels less the thickness of working surface material. Mine is 39 3/4" total tall and second level is 20 3/4"
  2. Cut a set of 2x4s to match those mounted to the wall and use only two screws to tack mount directly to first set of 2x4's
  3. Cut and place upright supports at the desired widths and screw them to the outside 2x4 only (be sure you are using 2.5" screws or less)
  4. Remove the tack screws from step #2 and you have a mirrored/square support!
  5. Place your surface material on the back hanger and pull your support beams out to the depth you want and Viola! you have a work bench.
  6. If you have very heavy areas, you can add cross supports but I didn't find them necessary.
Hat Rack:
  1. 2x4 or other random board, plus a bunch of extra brass (I used 223 Rem)
  2. Find drill bit that is *Slightly* larger than OD of your brass. Use test board to ensure snug fit if needed.
  3. Drill holes 1/2" deep at 6" spacing using a slight angle (I used about 25 deg off perpendicular)
  4. press and lightly tap brass into place with glue of your choice. Done~!
Hope you like and get some ideas!
 
Very nice room. The only thing I'd be careful about is when using the digitial powder scale while the computers are on. It could affect the readings.
That's definitely something I've looked at fixing by changing circuits into the room. I also need to get a power conditioner for the scale. The item that hurts power the most though is laser printer; I need to be sure it's off or it causes some substantial fluctuations.
 
That's definitely something I've looked at fixing by changing circuits into the room. I also need to get a power conditioner for the scale. The item that hurts power the most though is laser printer; I need to be sure it's off or it causes some substantial fluctuations.

I usually turn off all the electronics , my ceiling fan, and my halogen lights in my reloading room when I'm using the scales.