New Rem 700

[jetech]

I just bought a 700 SPS in 300wm, I wanted a 308 but I got it at a good price. This is my first bolt rifle (had a M1A) so I have been researching options on how to set it up.
I know I need a better stock and I need an optic for the shooting I plan to do. I have also been looking at muzzle brakes.

I would appreciate any advice on setting it up.

My plan is to use the rifle to develope better shooting skills. The distance will most likely be 300 and under starting out but I will be able to shoot at much longer distances when the time comes.

Due to a fixed income I will probably do things in stages, they will be moderate improvements. I would like to get confident at 1000 yards then reevaluate the next steps to take.

Thanks in advance

 

[grego88]

As for stocks, check out Grayboe. They are a spinoff of McMillian but half the price and still very good quality. I have one on my 700 and love it.

As for scopes, you have a lot to choose from. I personally use Nightforce, however they will cost you. I love it, however my next scope will more than likely be Vortex.

I would also invest in a quality bipod. Atlas is my go to.

 

[Pappakap]

You are wading into some deep waters my friend. I was in a similar situation not that long ago and I’ll share how I approached it. I started by getting things that were non permanent modifications like bipod, scope rings, scope, rear bag. That way if I gravitated towards another rifle it could come with. Once I had all of that I’d keep an eye out on the trading post for a stock in a flavor of your choice. If you get in really deep and want it blueprinted, skim bedded, threaded for a brake I’d recommend saving like hell before you do. Shipping to a reputable gunsmith is expensive for me so I made a point to do absolutely everything I wanted to do in one trip. Just take your time and remember it’s a process not an event.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

A hunting weight rifle in 300WM is not the rifle to develop shooting skills on. It has a lot of recoil, match ammo is expensive, and it has poor barrel life.

Should have bought the 308. Not that the same rifle in 308 would make the best platform to learn on because it’s still a hunting rifle, but it’s be better than the 300WM.

My recommendation would be to put it on armslist, dump it, then do your research before buying so you don’t make another mistake.

 

[Iwillylike2shoot]

I don't think you made a mistake by buying an 300wm. You live and learn a lot by shooting different guns, but there is a lot of truth to what redneckbmxer24 said. Take it out and shoot a box of ammo through it and you will see that it might not be the best training rifle. There are a lot of 6.5 and 308 guns out there and you would be better off with one of those. Someone out there will probably trade you a 308 for your 300wm. A 223 Remington with a fast twist is capable of 1000 yards and much less expensive also.

 

[jetech]

Thanks for all the input so far. I did think about trading to a different rifle but I keep coming back to wanting to give this one a little time. When I had my 7.62/308 I found myself thinking I should have gone with a 30.06. So I will just see how I like this one and if it doesn't work out I will trade it.

I reload 223 and 308 when I had the M1A so I am kind of looking forward to loading for the 300.

I think I will try the Willis muzzle brake, I have been reading some good reviews on it.

 

[crunchy]

300wm is a great hunting caliber, but a little much if all you are doing is punching holes in paper at the range. As for mods, a decent stock, bipod, and scope is all you need to get started if you are already reloading.

 

[jetech]

Any recommendations on optics? I already have a Harris bipod that I can take off a Tavor so that is one item down. I think l would want to keep the optic around $600 or so starting out.

 

[kl3309]

A hunting weight rifle in 300WM is not the rifle to develop shooting skills on.

What he said^^^^^

 

[Jscb1b]

You already know how to reload. Get a set of .300wn dies. You don't have to run full power loads. Load up some reduced recoil loads to start. Work up from there. The only brakes(2) I can talk about are from Witt Machine. I like them. Athlon scopes are good and inexpensive. Look at the argos or midas. Good luck have fun!

 

[jetech]

I agree the 300WM isn't the best round to develop skills with. I have other rifles I can use but I do want to see how well I can shoot the 300.

jscb1b
I have already started putting together a list of reloading supplies. I will look at Athlon scopes. The Witt brake is on the rifle list.

 

[chasedeer]

Any recommendations on optics? I already have a Harris bipod that I can take off a Tavor so that is one item down. I think l would want to keep the optic around $600 or so starting out.

A vortex PST Gen 2 would do just fine if you can get your budget enough to $750 regardless the SWFA SS would perform just as nice for a budget scope

 

[Snuby642]

I think the mb would ne a great first investment. A decent quality scope for 600$ is going to be a compromise mil mil or moa moa just don't mix.
The quality of the glass shows the farther you go.

 

[jetech]

I have been reading about moa vs mil, from what I can tell it seems to be a matter of preference. I did read not to mix the two. I am still reading the arguments over one vs the other. It seems the mil system is slightly more popular over moa. Is that correct? I haven't used either, would one be better over the other starting out?

 

[Snuby642]

One of the biggest fights you will see is arguing the 2 systems.
Both work I have both. Mils are popular with long distance competition guys.
It takes the same amount of practice to learn either, I think most people should
learn both but nowadays mills are more popular in competition and moa still rules
the deer stands.

To judge the difference for yourself, download a free balistic calculator for your phone.
Put in a bullet and rifle profile and play with it, change between mil and moa.

Videos on utube.
It's a personal choice.

A mentor at the range can show you how to run mils very quickly if it is in your hands.
It is way more difficult to explain than to use if not in person.

 

[308pirate]

To judge the difference for yourself, download a free balistic calculator for your phone.
Put in a bullet and rifle profile and play with it, change between mil and moa.

What, exactly, do you think the OP will learn by doing this?

Which car is going faster, the one going 75 mph or the one going 120 km/h?

Which bullet drops more at 600 yards, the one that drops 4.2 mils or the one that drops 14.5 moa?

 

[Snuby642]

See here we go?

He can look at the difference in the app at same ranges to help him choose.
It does not matter which system is used as long as you understand it.
I use both back to back on same range day, no problems.

My only preference is to use mils at longer ranges and moa for short work.

I can't for the life of me figure why anyone would give a shit as long as a hit is made.

 

[Snuby642]

I have a question.
Why do the mil guys still describe thier groups in moa?

Some people use moa and mils in the same sentence here on the hide.

If I had a mil/moa scope "mistake as I see it" it would not either placate anyone.

 

[308pirate]

He can look at the difference in the app at same ranges to help him choose.

How will that help anyone choose?

 

[midSCarolina]

I have been reading about moa vs mil, from what I can tell it seems to be a matter of preference. I did read not to mix the two. I am still reading the arguments over one vs the other. It seems the mil system is slightly more popular over moa. Is that correct? I haven't used either, would one be better over the other starting out?

It is nothing but personal preference but I do think mils are quicker/easier to work in. Say I am shooting at 1200y and my hold is going to be somewhere around 13.4 mils.... I have 10 mils to use on my reticle; I'll dial 3.4 and hold at 10. Hell of a lot better than having a 30moa reticle and needing 46.1 moa and then having to say i need 16.1moa which is going to be somewhere between 16 and 16.25 (1/4moa clicks) and then dial 16 and hold about 1.25" over my desired POI (even tho that is pretty negligible at that distance) . It is all easy math but I think mils makes the math even easier by keeping the numbers smaller.

ETA: Also, the way my ballistic calc spits out numbers actually matches the adjustments I can make on my scope when using mils, but you have to round to the closest 1/4moa when working in moa. And my OCD doesn't like that

 

[Maxim0]

Check out the apa muzzle brakes. I have the lil bastard on my 308 but you may want the next size up for your 300

 

[Snuby642]

Some calcs show reticles and thier hold point, they will show the more dificult math
with moa. The beauty of mils is no, or easier math.

Lets take a look at an old guy "me", using fractions and tenths of an inch all his life and then try and explain mils to them. A day at the range is all it takes if it is in your hands.

After shooting with mills a couple of times it became obvious why it works so well.
Any new long range scopes will be mil for me.
A moa scope for 0-300 will do fine for me.

My primary ballistic calculater provides clicks in 1/4 or in one tenth as needed.
In fact It will give 1/4 mil, yes I have one.
For me rounding to the nearest mark is done by going up or down a few yards,
then I make my range card.

The phone app is just a tool to look at for the op to see which he prefers before spending $.
It's free and has no preference built in.
Anyway rounding to .25 or .36 is not much different to me I do both.

 

[308pirate]

Some calcs show reticles and thier hold point, they will show the more dificult math
with moa. The beauty of mils is no, or easier math.

You still do not understand how this works.

There is no math involved with a scope that has a reticle markings and adjustment turrets in MOA, just like there is no math involved with a scope that has reticle markings and adjustment turrets in milliradians.

Personally I don't care if you ever understand ballistic compensation works, but please stop giving new shooters confusing and incorrect advice.

 

[Snuby642]

I don't care if you get it at all.

 

[Snuby642]

Wait for it, steady, hold.
A list of credentials that nobody cares about ensues.

 

[OG10]

WOW... another thread off the tracks... A sporter weight barrell is usually not the best weight barrell to practice long distance/long range shooting.That said The weight on this rifle is probably around 7 1/2 pounds the trigger may be someting to consider also.I would put a known good scope on it and go shoot it see what it does.From there you address the short cummings or faults. You may or may not like the rifle then proceede from there. @Redneckbmxr24 made a valid point.Some times people have to learn from their own decissions the internet can not decide whats best for you we can only offer suggestions/advice based on our experiences. Just my .02.

 

[jda2631]

Since you are already set up for reloading, and you are wanting to practice and gain skill target shooting, shooting under 500 yards at first and working out to 1000. I would say light load some 175-190 gr bullets. Work up a load to shoot them at 27-2800 fps. Plenty to get to 1000, recoil will be much less than shooting max 300wm, and will be a little cheaper since you are using less powder.

308 175gr gold medal match listed velocity on the box is 2600fps. You shoot the same bullet at 2700-2800, you'll improve the ballistics a good bit, all while not killing your shoulder and saving a little money at the same time. Or jump up to the 190-195 class bullets for a little better BC's.

All that to say, since you are set up for reloading, and you are target shooting working out to 1000, don't feel the need to shoot full power 300wm, its not needed at all.


As for equipment, put as much money in the scope as you can. Check the PX on here, can find some good deals in there.
Greyboe and Bell and Carleson are good options for a stock. The KRG Bravo is great, a little more expensive than those when you get to the long action version.

 

[jetech]

Thanks for the new replies. I have a lot to think about before I buy anything.

while doing some research today I found that there is a trigger group recall on this rifle. I filled out the form and got the authorization for repair. It is going to be done local so I may have the barrel threaded while the trigger work is being done.

I downloaded some more info on Mil and Moa so I will look into that further.

Also, I am starting to gather the reloading data and I will plan on lighter loads.
I have a 100 yard range now and as soon as the ground thaws and dries I think I can get to 300 with a large dirt backstop.

Thanks again for all the ideas and help, I sure appreciate it.

 

[OG10]

Please update the thread as you progress. Thank you

 

[jetech]

I will. I am sure I will have more questions.

 

[SCGunner84]

Any recommendations on optics? I already have a Harris bipod that I can take off a Tavor so that is one item down. I think l would want to keep the optic around $600 or so starting out.

Get you a quality muzzle brake and you can shoot that 300 all day. My 300 is a Rem 700 long range with an APA Gen II Little Bastard, Badger Ordnance bolt knob, 20 MOA rail, and scope rings. My optic is the Nightforce NXS 5-5x22x56. The optic cost my than the rifle and few mods put together. Still have some things that I want to do to it but it can still be used as an open field hunting rifle.