When you guys buy a new scope do you guys always set the scope in the middle of how many of clicks of MOA it has. Scope mfgs usually state put in middle.
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New scope
- Thread starter wildturkey2
- Start date
I do the redneck bore sight method - pull the bolt out of the rifle (even works with AR's with a little finagling), look through the bore of the rifle and align on target downrange, keep rifle steady, then look through scope and adjust scope turrets to match center of bore, confirm by looking through bore once again. This always gets me on paper at 100 yards and then I adjust turrets accordingly, I can usually zero with 5 rounds or less, once zeroed I reset the turrets to zero and I'm GTG.
But do you start with scope in the middle of how many clicks you have total of clicks the scope has . Like if scope has 100 clicks total you would set it at 50 clicks to be in the middle ??
Just start wherever the frak it is when you got it. You are adjusting to bore sight it and then zero. Where you start doesn't matter unless you don't have enough adjustment to bore sight/zero. And that's another discussion, right?
The only reason I can think of for doing this is if you are using the twist in front ring and windage adjustable screws for the rear mount. With the windage centered you would use the screws of the rear mount to get you centered on the target. Once you have that then use elevation adjustment for POA equals POI.
ok
can confirm. it seems like it shouldn't be this easy but it's worked for me the last few times. can't wait to try it again next week, I have a new toy and scope to play with aswell
This is all true, but you can even get a little closer with a little more thought. You KNOW that the bullet is going to drop a little from perfect-horizontal, even at just 100 yards, so take that into account. How much will be dependent on MV (not bullet weight). Having the reticle and view through the bore co-witness doesn't account for this. I find that adjusting the reticle to appear 0.3-0.6 mils BELOW the center-of-the-bore view will get you real close to zero on the first shot, assuming you are fanatically close in your alignment Lt-Rt and Up-Dn in your view through the bore. If you just align the reticle to the center of the view-through-the-bore, your first shot will always be low, due to the fact that the bullet will drop some, even at 100 yds.
Your eyes are better than mine that's for sure, when I look through the bore at an 8.5x11 target at 100 yards away it is more like a white blob that I try my best to center but in no way is likely true center unless I get really lucky, but if you're able to account for the POI difference then absolutely go that route. Like I said, having done it this way for many years it has always got me on paper first shot (okay, I think one time I was off the paper but still on the cardboard backing). That said, I will try adjusting as you mentioned and see if it is in fact closer to center as they ain't nothin' wrong with improving on my redneck method.
I’ve always used the Redfield Precision targets (the orange diamonds and 1” grid over white background). When you look through the bore you see two circles: the larger one is the rifling of the bore, and the smaller one is the muzzle itself. You have to get those two circles concentric AND have the diamond bullseye centered in the smaller one (like I said, fanatic). You can see that big orange diamond through the bore pretty easily. Then you can look through the scope and adjust the reticle to be below the center of the bullseye by however much you expect your bullet to drop in 100 yds. I’ve always gotten surprisingly close to Zero, but I kind of make it a game to see HOW close I can get. After doing many by just centering everything and the first shot always being low (as it will) one day it just hit me, “Why don’t I just go ahead and account for that to begin with?”
