Rifle Scopes New Shooter, A few questions. Buying 3 of the same scope?

[tmsa]

Ok, I have no scope experience at all. I have shot rifles with iron sights and m4 style sights. I want to start shooting at a distance. I have 3 guns I would like to setup with scopes. S&W M&P AR15/22 (22lr), Custom built heavy barrel 18" AR (5.56) and a savage 30-06 bolt gun. I have done what I can with reading some of the sticky's on here and other places. From the looks of things a Mil/Mil/FFP scope is what most would like to have or do have. This also seams to be the current trend in scopes. As for reading about it..... well it looks easier than MOA. My reasoning for the same scope is I can learn the scope and its features shooting cheaper 22lr ammo. Then move to farther distances with each rifle as I go. I'm sure this will be a slow process. My thoughts are to start with a Primary Arms 4-14x44 Mil/Mil/FFP scope on the 2 less recoil rifles. I know the scope is cheap but is has good reviews for what it is and its price point. Compared to something like a Bushnell elite hunter or Burris XTR II. I can buy 2 scopes, mounts, and caps for under $700. Where with the others I will be pushing over $1800 for 2.
Please keep in mind that I am new. If there are any links or videos that you would also recommend. That would be great.
Thank you
Tony

 

[fdkay]

Sounds like a good plan to me.
Also consider the BSA equivalent sold exclusively by MidwayUSA (it looks identical)

I have had good luck with my Falcon Menace, which costs a bit more, but you get better glass and more reticle options.

Two other options, both costing 300 bucks (normally) are the SS 10X and Weaver GS Tactical from Midway (3-10x).
The SS is fixed power and very high quality, the Weaver is a high quality SFP scope that is mil/mil.
While neither offers the bells and whistles of the Chinese made scopes (Falcon, BSA and Primary Arms) they are of higher quality (Japanese) and both would easily handle the recoil of the '06.

 

[SomeOtherGuy]

I wouldn't buy three of a cheaper scope with limited resale value. You eventually won't want them any more, and will be out most or all of your money when you replace them.

I would get a high quality scope for the 5.56 AR15, assuming that's the one you'll be doing relative precision work at distance on a more frequent basis. I would get a cheap but good scope like a Weaver K4 4x38mm for the .22 AR, and a moderately priced hunting type scope for the .30-06, assuming it will get used as a hunting rifle - something like a Burris FF E1, Nikon Monarch or Prostaff 5, Vortex Viper (1" tube) or Diamondback, Zeiss Conquest, Leupold VX-2 or VX-R, etc., in 3-9x or 4-12x flavor.

 

[steve123]

The Midway BSA tactical 4-14 has a better reticle with .5 mil hash marks and 9 mil for holdovers.

For the 30-06 a SWFA is probably a good idea with respect to recoil generated. I haven't tried the BSA on a harder kicking rifle yet because I use expensive scopes on them.

 

[tmsa]

Starting out I would like to pick a standard and stay that way. Would you agree that mil/mil/ffp is a great place to start and evolve with? or something else? In my reading the main things that I saw were always different were the adjustment clicks and the recital. My thought is if I keep them the same it is less to learn or be confused about.
Right? Wrong?

 

[tmsa]

The Midway BSA tactical 4-14 has a better reticle with .5 mil hash marks and 9 mil for holdovers.

Just looked that up. Looks like a nice option. Thank you.

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[BoilerUP]

Personally, I would buy ONE optic and see if you like it - like its features, its weight, clarity, sharpness, brightness, feel of turrets, etc. If it is good to go, then buy additional copies.

I think standardization is a good idea, and the BSA 4-14x FFP is a surprisingly decent scope given its origin, manufacturer and price point (though I greatly disliked the turrets). That being said, you might consider spending more for the SWFA 3-15x FFP (keep an eye on Quality optics and accessories from Leupold, Bushnell, Burris, Nikon and more!) as it is a more known quantity and WILL have better resale value.

Another good option, if you don't mind a second focal plane scope, is the Vortex HS-T line.

I have standardized to the HS-T 4-16x MRAD on my 223AI and 260, and the Weaver Grand Slam Tactical 3-10x40 MidwayUSA exclusive on my FrankenSPR and FV-SR 22LR trainer.

 

[tmsa]

The SWFA Bushnell and Burris models is something to consider after I figure this all out. I think I'm going for either the BSA or PA 4-14. Start with one. Learn it and go forward.

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[tmsa]

Anyone know the correct butler Creek caps for the BSA? Looks like #31 and #18

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[scotharr]

I don't like your idea. As mentioned, 3 cheap scopes = 3 things you won't want to keep if you get serious. Combine the funds and buy 1 nicer scope. Good scopes retain their value and can be traded up for something better later. Cheap scopes are worthless and leaving you regretting your expenditures.

 

[damoncali]

My take is that features cost money, so if you're going to go cheap, cut features - not quality. Don't get hung up on mils, MOA, or SFP/FFP. You can learn a LOT with a fine cross hair fixed power for very little money and still have a decent scope. Most notably, you'll learn what you want in a scope. Don't assume you know what you want until you try something. Don't buy three. Buy one and shoot it. Sightron makes some good, inexpensive scopes. Other makers do as well.

 

[Bender]

SWFA. Period. Sell it at 80% original cost. Try that with a BSA or any other Chinese scope.

 

[AndroCorpInd]

I agree that you should combine your $ and just buy one higher quality scope. You can choose a high quality qd mount and rotate it between rifles. Should be an easy re-zero once its dialed in on one platform.

You will also gain a ton of experience using your reticle to re-zero.

 

[sib1948]

Love my SWFA fixed 20X on my cheap Savage Axis 22LR trainer. Lots of cheap practice. Agree you should just buy 1 scope like SWFA first, for easy resale, but I have several scopes and rifles and find mil/mil with 0.1 mil clicks very easy yo use. The March 5-40X I have has 0.05 mil clicks, and is the only scope I have in that gradation and continues to bother me after over a year. I'm impressed with all the research you've done. I wish other noobs would do the same with the wealth of information readily availability on this site. Good luck!

 

[tmsa]

You guys make a good case. SWFA SS 3-15*42 it is. I do like the 1/2 mil hash marks. If this is going to be on my 30-06 at some point, do I need a scope base with some amount of angle? What would be a good base? Also $700 at riflescopes is the only place I see them.

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[tmsa]

I'm impressed with all the research you've done. I wish other noobs would do the same with the wealth of information readily availability on this site. Good luck!

Thank you. I'm doing my best to keep all this information straight in my head. It is a lot to consume without any scope experience. I will continue reading and learning in attempt to only respond with educated questions.

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[sib1948]

Thank you. I'm doing my best to keep all this information straight in my head. It is a lot to consume without any scope experience. I will continue reading and learning in attempt to only respond with educated questions.

Be sure to bore sight at 25 yards, so you'll be on paper when you move out to zero at 100 yards. I purchased a lazer bore site, which is magnetic and attaches to the end of your barrel-even fits on most pistols. Cannot be seen in bright light, so before sunrise the day I'm heading to the range, I sight it in in my backyard and only takes about 5 shots at 25 and 100 yards to confirm and set my zero.

Also, read the threads on leveling your scope. I use a plumb line hanging on the wall in my house, since the SWFA scope will focus down to 10 yards, if I remember correctly. Your crosshairs may look slightly canted, but trust me they won't be if you done everything correctly. Good luck and have great fun. Veryaddicting sport.

You can PM me, if you have any other questions. George

PS-You'll start to understand it all better once you start shooting. Off to work!

 

[damoncali]

If you're careful you can bore sight at 100 yards. Just remove the bolt, look through the bore, center the target in the bore and adjust the scope to match. Done with care (a round, black bull about 10" in diameter is ideal), you will be within 6" or so at 100 on the first shot. Leave the bore sighter at home - they have no place on a live range in my opinion. Obviously, this won't work with a M14, 10/22 or any other gun that won't allow you to look through the bore, but with a bolt gun, it's all you need.

 

[SomeOtherGuy]

You guys make a good case. SWFA SS 3-15*42 it is. I do like the 1/2 mil hash marks. If this is going to be on my 30-06 at some point, do I need a scope base with some amount of angle? What would be a good base? Also $700 at riflescopes is the only place I see them.

The SWFA scopes are only sold new by SWFA, a distributor/retailer out of Texas. Riflescopes.com is simply one of their URLs, as is SWFA.com. They are a good company.

You will not need an angled base with that scope on the .30-06 if you're using typical .30-06 loads within 600-700 yards, or using good long range loads out to 1000 yards. An inclined base would be preferable if most of your shooting is between 600 and 1000 yards, but not essential. If you actually plan to shoot beyond 1000 yards, then you would want or need an inclined base. I would get a flat (0 moa) or at most 10 moa base if most of your shooting is at 800 yards or less.

 

[ScottNC]

I've had an SWFA 3-15x42 going on almost a year. It is currently on my Kidd SuperGrade 10/22 Bench Rifle, I plan to add a few more SWFA's this year for my Daniel Defense SBR and my 16" DD AR 16". When you get your's you wish you 3! Good luck with your purchase.