New stock or chassis for my Savage PC

2ac

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 11, 2009
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Seattle
I'm about to restock my Savage 10 PC and need some advise. I was pretty sure I wanted to put in an order for a new XLR chassis, but now I'm not sure. I'm beginning to like the sound of the Manners Mini chassis with DBM, and it's traditional look. But I'm wondering, does Manners make a Savage comparable DBM, with the bottom bolt release?
 
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You'll need to google it, but I think you can make a bottom bolt release into a top bolt release. That will give you significantly greater stock options. The XLR will not work with a bottom bolt release (and if I recall, the bolt spacing is different on the bottom bolt release as well). I'd give Chad a call/email to confirm your options.

I went with an XLR and love it. For me, it makes going back and forth between AR and Bolt a little easier. Plus from a price perspective, the XLR was inline with others once you add bottom metal.
 
I'm leaning towards the XLR at this moment. I really enjoy shooting my SPR and I like how the XLR's ergos are similar. I'd still like to know if a Manners is even an option though.
 
Just as an FYI, we do build our chassis for all Savage 10,11,12,16, etc. Side or bottom bolt release, 4.41 or 4.275 bolt spacing, right or left hand, all of them.

Bolt spacing on the bottom bolt release is still 4.41.

Thanks, Kyle ~ XLR

I have been looking as well, I'm glad I know this... I will be checking them out very soon. I have a Savage 10PC as well with bottom bolt release.
 
You didn't like the Mcree's? I've got the PC as well and I like the simplicity of the mcree chassis. I just have to get a hold of a side bolt release/sear to swap onto my rifle.
 
If you go Manners, you HAVE TO BED the action to their stock. I know most people do it anyways, but with manners it's a must. They are awesome stocks. I have one and its my favorite overall feel and ergo compared to an hs precision and a bc medalist.
 
You didn't like the Mcree's? I've got the PC as well and I like the simplicity of the mcree chassis. I just have to get a hold of a side bolt release/sear to swap onto my rifle.

I do like the look of them. I haven't spent much time looking into the bolt release swap. It just looks more costly than I wanted deal with, plus the need for more tools than I have. Maybe this is something I'll research a bit more.
 
I am going to order a Mcree, probably next week for my birthday. I want to see if there is a way I can inlet around the bottom release sear or possibly machine a slot on the bottom or side of the chassis to allow use of the factory release lever...with a tool maybe? Keeping the smooth lines of the action is kinda my goal too. I had googled the sear swap a while back and it looked like something I could do myself, so if I can't keep the bottom release I have a way out. The sear itself is like $16 from savage, the catch is they only sell to gunsmiths, but not a biggie.
 
Yup, can be done. Kevin at Stockade will be doing a conversion for me soon.

PCR did it for me. I provided the specs and sear and they milled the receiver for me. I'm sure they'll do it for anyone else, and I've got about 5 extra sears. They are only $8 from savage and are all you need to do the conversion. This action was an FCP-k, not anymore!
 

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So does the release simply press against the sear, or is it attached? If not attached, does it pivot off the trigger housing? Finally, is this mod possible without machining the receiver? I'm having a hard time searching for a how too.
Please excuse the newb questions, I'm new to the bolt world. I haven't even taken the action out of the stock yet. Maybe it's time to explore.
 
Sear and bolt release are one piece. You can jb weld a lever to the existing sear to make it a top bolt release without milling the receiver. This is how CDI has you do it so that their bottom metal will work on bottom release guns.
 
You can put it in any stock with the right bolt spacing. Some inlet may be required. I have ran CDI bottom
metal and now I have it in an AICS.
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Sear and bolt release are one piece. You can jb weld a lever to the existing sear to make THE LEVER POKE OUT OF THE TRIGGER OPENING. This is how CDI has you do it so that their bottom metal will work on bottom release guns.

Here is a thread with a few pics of CDI's fix. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ttom-metal-will-go-into-savage-accustock.html It's a little aluminum tab JB welded onto the bottom of the sear lever. This method might work in the mcree but I don't have a chassis in front of me to see if you could do something like this (with or without a little dremel action). It seems to me like a little material would have to be removed from the inside of the chassis around the trigger/ sear area to clear.
 
I'm not sure I like the idea of gluing, seems like an invitation, at the wrong time.

I do like the Mcree, and it's price point. I could have the action machined and still come out ahead. Now to find someone worthy in the Seattle area, if I go this route. I just want it done right the first time.
 
I received my Mcrees chassis, it is a work of art. I had it in 4 days! You can't ask for more than that. Had it out for the first time today, and what a difference! Thanks to bodywerk's inspiration, I also had the receiver machined for the side bolt release.

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I've had McMillan....manners....b&c ...choate....they all got replaced with a XLR....its what works best for me.... you need to pick up anyone you like and see what works for YOU.... also xlr has first class customer service.....and great prices...
 
I received my Mcrees chassis, it is a work of art. I had it in 4 days! You can't ask for more than that. Had it out for the first time today, and what a difference! Thanks to bodywerk's inspiration, I also had the receiver machined for the side bolt release.

image-3.jpg

What style side bolt release? i cant really tell.. can u post pictures of it?
 
The receiver is just machined a bit on the side, to accept the standard release. It came with the bolt release located in front of the trigger guard. Many stocks do not accomidate that set up, so I modified it. Check out post #12 for an example, this was my inspiration to just get it done right. My smith ended up only charging me $50, $69 with the lever installed. Needless to say, I'm very pleased with how it turned out. It also shoots fantastically now!