new to AR -15 reloading
- Thread starter Hopar
- Start date
I would recommend something in .223/5.56.
I de-cap separately before cleaning with a dedicated de-capping die. If I don't have chambering issues, I'll use a full length (FL) sizing die. If I have issues or don't know which AR the ammo will be used in, I'll use a small base (SB) sizing die. If you're shooting precision, I'd look into a National Match die set with a micrometer seating die, but the barrel needs to be chambered for such. When I crimp, I use a separate crimping die.
What do you mean "chambered for national match"?
When sizing the neck, what is your tension so the bolt slam doesn't move the bullet forward? Or is that not an issue
How experienced are you at reloading? I've an old set of Hornady dies for thirty years. A few years back I got an RCBS X Die so I won't have to trim so much. In addition to dies I'd get this book. Amazon product ASIN 1931220018
Is crimping necessary for AR's?
I have loaded for my bolt 223 but never for a AR and I am fixing to start. Will be loading 77tmk's. I have read some say it is and some say it does not matter but this was years ago.
I have loaded for my bolt 223 but never for a AR and I am fixing to start. Will be loading 77tmk's. I have read some say it is and some say it does not matter but this was years ago.
Aim for practical accuracy and I'd likely just start out with Hornady Custom dies, full length resize set, #546228. If you keep your brass sorted and don't use the expander ball, you can set the final tension with a neck-sizing mandrel from 21st Century Reloading. I'd still do a very light crimp with something like the Lee factory crimp die which can be used if you're not trimming each to the exact same length every time.
It's really no different than loading for bolt except you're often doing it in far greater numbers. Efficiency is the key and ultimately a progressive press is the way to go from a purely time standpoint. How much you do to the case is up to you. I've gone so far as to ream/unify the primer pocket of all my cases which can get very tedious. I usually trim as well. You can do less of course, whatever suits your goals.
It's really no different than loading for bolt except you're often doing it in far greater numbers. Efficiency is the key and ultimately a progressive press is the way to go from a purely time standpoint. How much you do to the case is up to you. I've gone so far as to ream/unify the primer pocket of all my cases which can get very tedious. I usually trim as well. You can do less of course, whatever suits your goals.
My choice would be Redding Full length competition dies with the Micrometer seating adjuster.
I'd actually avoid Redding. Their quality has gone downhill as of late. My last set of Redding dies were so tight that well-lubed cases were getting stuck in them and the amount of force needed to even insert the case was far beyond normal. Had to send them back.
Forester is really solid if you want to spend more than Hornady and have a high quality die that won't break the bank. I use those for the bolt gun stuff. But Hornady dies are priced right, ubiquitous, can get a micrometer for the seating die and they work as advertised. They'll produce sub-MOA ammo with them no problem. And if you screw one up, they're cheap to replace and the small parts are easy to find and stock.
Forester is really solid if you want to spend more than Hornady and have a high quality die that won't break the bank. I use those for the bolt gun stuff. But Hornady dies are priced right, ubiquitous, can get a micrometer for the seating die and they work as advertised. They'll produce sub-MOA ammo with them no problem. And if you screw one up, they're cheap to replace and the small parts are easy to find and stock.
I want to say mine was six months ago? But I have a bunch of Redding stuff and even their threading isn't up to the same level as Hornady let alone Forester.
The Forester stuff is like butter (still affordable too!) and is allegedly better for concentricity hence me using it for the bolt/precision stuff. But dies can be a deep rabbit hole and you can spend a ton of money on them. I waited for over a year to get a .308 silicone carbide resizing die from Dillon, LOL. That's like 1.5 suppressors at today's approval rates!
But seriously, I have multiple sets of the Hornady 223 dies for progressive, single stage, etc...and they've all been consistent with zero issues. I can swap them back and forth and nothing changes. I'd start out with simple, precise and inexpensive and see if it fits your needs.
The Forester stuff is like butter (still affordable too!) and is allegedly better for concentricity hence me using it for the bolt/precision stuff. But dies can be a deep rabbit hole and you can spend a ton of money on them. I waited for over a year to get a .308 silicone carbide resizing die from Dillon, LOL. That's like 1.5 suppressors at today's approval rates!
But seriously, I have multiple sets of the Hornady 223 dies for progressive, single stage, etc...and they've all been consistent with zero issues. I can swap them back and forth and nothing changes. I'd start out with simple, precise and inexpensive and see if it fits your needs.
It's "Black Magic: The Ultra Accurate AR-15" and you can get it on amazon. I use the RCBS X dies so I won't have to trim cases after the initial trimming. but you could also go for a bushing style competing dies set. That way if you want to load for 20 Practical you'll just need to get different bushings.
I haven't needed small base dies. But they could be needed depending on the chamber. I think RCBS makes a small base X Die too. I'd say the biggest thing about loading for the AR15 is make sure you FL resize enough for your rifle. Some bump their shoulders .003-.004". Some just do a standard FL resize. I'd make sure to use semi auto loads and just use your head. Catastrophic failures are pretty explosive on AR's. So do some research and go slow.
I'm not aware of any other options. But like I said earlier I haven't needed a SBD. My regular Hornady die works fine. As did my RCBS X die.
Wylde chamber reamer dimensions vary between manufacturers. As an example, I'll use the base diameters of two reputable manufacturers, JGS and Manson.
JGS .223 Wylde base diameter - 0.3810"
Manson .223 Wylde base diameter - 0.3777"
Small base dies are typically 0.003" smaller than a regular FL die. Whether you need one or not can come down to whose reamer the barrel maker used.
Agree. I got a set of 6.5CM dies from them last spring and the resizing die had to be sent back b/c of the same issues. Their QC has gone down immensely. I'd go with Hornady or Forster and get a micrometer seating die.
Here is my testing on if the bullet moves when chambering. (There are 3 videos, each seated differently and or crimped vs not).
AR Setback Test
