New to Duracoat, should I do a clear coat?

[NashtyGrunt]

First project with duracoat. Wanted to do a play on Luis Vuitton but the men's version. Turned out as I wanted, but my question for duracoaters out there is should or do I need a clear coat over the top? Polyurethane? Will it hold up without one? Thanks for any insight.

 

[cd132]

I use Duracoat clear flat over my camo jobs. Probably does not need it but I think it helps. Over the years I have found that Duracoat does chip, scratch and wear. A lot of members here will say I'm applying wrong, but I don't really see any kind of coating being "bullet" proof.

 

[NashtyGrunt]

Alright thanks, I'll pick up some clear and try it.

 

[DUTCH84]

I agree with cd132. I have not clear coated any of my duracoat jobs, but after some years of abuse it does tend to wear in spots. In my opinion any application is going to show wear over time. And before anyone can say I didn't apply it correctly...I applied it exactly as per instruction. My next project I am going to try the Duracoat clearcoat.

 

[MeasureOnceCutTwice]

I've put flat clear on both of the rifles I've coated. Interestingly it didn't make much of a difference sheen-wise. The first one has had some chipping near the mag well, just the top color flaking off, but the base isn't affected. I think I put the top color on too thick. The second rifle, no issues. But, they're both pretty fresh and haven't had a lot of use. I was hoping the clear would sort of level out the finish like it did when I tried pin striping a helmet. ugh, that was a mess. It didn't do that either, it goes on really thin. I laid down a few coats and didn't notice much of a difference. I'll probably still keep adding it though, just for that extra little layer.

 

[George P. Burdell]

Looks cool! Nice job!

 

[Dougie308]

I use Duracoat clear flat over my camo jobs. Probably does not need it but I think it helps. Over the years I have found that Duracoat does chip, scratch and wear. A lot of members here will say I'm applying wrong, but I don't really see any kind of coating being "bullet" proof.

I agree. Duracoat does chip. Not terrible, but I got a couple dropping it in the woods. Better to have it and not need it. Depending on your tastes, it can also add shine or flatten the color.

 

[Tstorm1]

Nice work for your first one! I did several with rattle-cans then learned to use an airbrush and have done several with duracoat, but never used the clear coat. One thing I have learned is to use adhesion promoter, available at any auto parts store. Never used it on wood/wood composite stocks, but the promoter on polymer stocks works like a charm and seems to solve the chipping issue.

 

[Aftermath]

I absolutely LOVE that idea of using the archaic Army men! Genius!!

I have been using Duracoat for several years after "graduating" from Krylon and other paints. I do not use a clear coat. It IS paint so it will wear here and there over time. I've never had any chipping, just wear marks. Like where a rifle hangs in the rack I use in my Jeep. I have always looked at those wear marks as character and never worried too much. Crap...some guys even paint their stuff to LOOK like it's almost worn out. Besides, it is paint. Just like your old car, it can be refinished to look better than new if it gets to the point you can't stand it anymore.

 

[Stavey]

Duracoat does show wear more than cerakote. Duracoat is just so easy to apply . I’ve always used the flattening agent and no clear. Here’s my Russian camo 308

 

[Hobo_Steve]

Excellent job! Love the pattern! I would clear coat a job that nice as extra insurance unless it’s going to be a safe queen. I’ve done more than several and if it’s going to be in the woods or competition it’s just a matter of time before it develops “character”.

 

[Strykervet]

Prefer cerakote by far, but I did fart around with duracoat years ago and did a Glock slide and a Mossberg shotgun. The park job on the shotgun was pretty deep and the I just degreased the parts well.

The slide held up better than I thought. Didn't chip, it sorta burnished like I waned but didn't expect. It did wear fast in places where parts meet but since I didn't damage the tennifer it doesn't matter and looks good on the outside.

The shotgun, well, what can I say, it's black now and the duracoat seemed to settle in the park job and formed a solid surface. It's wearing well and no complaints.

Then did an FAL. Total fuckjob. Chipped, looked like shit, didn't layer well, you name it. I followed all instructions, did nothing different really except I did prep it better. That rifle got cerakoted and I couldn't be happier.

My foray into duracoat was sorta interesting, on one hand I got phenomenal results and on the other I couldn't get the shit to work. Given Cerakote requires about the same prep, I'd say just go with the Cerakote. I sold all my duracoat stuff and the airbrush and compressor and just resigned to having Cerakote jobs done professionally until I can get the sandblasting cabinet and other gear to do it right. It's not like I need it done often anyway.

As far as clear coats go, didn't need one. Won't need one with Cerakote either.

 

[TonyTheTiger]

Prefer cerakote by far, but I did fart around with duracoat years ago and did a Glock slide and a Mossberg shotgun. The park job on the shotgun was pretty deep and the I just degreased the parts well.

The slide held up better than I thought. Didn't chip, it sorta burnished like I waned but didn't expect. It did wear fast in places where parts meet but since I didn't damage the tennifer it doesn't matter and looks good on the outside.

The shotgun, well, what can I say, it's black now and the duracoat seemed to settle in the park job and formed a solid surface. It's wearing well and no complaints.

Then did an FAL. Total fuckjob. Chipped, looked like shit, didn't layer well, you name it. I followed all instructions, did nothing different really except I did prep it better. That rifle got cerakoted and I couldn't be happier.

My foray into duracoat was sorta interesting, on one hand I got phenomenal results and on the other I couldn't get the shit to work. Given Cerakote requires about the same prep, I'd say just go with the Cerakote. I sold all my duracoat stuff and the airbrush and compressor and just resigned to having Cerakote jobs done professionally until I can get the sandblasting cabinet and other gear to do it right. It's not like I need it done often anyway.

As far as clear coats go, didn't need one. Won't need one with Cerakote either.

My experience exactly.

 

[bucklowery]

I have used it on some not on others and seems to look great either way

 

[sapper12b]

I clear all my paint jobs, it will even out the paint and add protection to your base paint.

 

[Atomic donut]

I’ve always used rattle can matte clear coat. Always takes paint stripper to get the coats off and I’ve really had it chip.