New to LR with an old .30-06 savage

[Jonzie92]

#1
Hey guys I'm new here and just getting in to long range shooting. I have a question for some of yall more experienced long range guys. I'm a pretty avid deer and small game hunter and have a few high powered rifles. The biggest rifle I have is an older savage 111 .30-06. Its got a wood stock and the thinner "hunting profile" type barrel. I have a 20 moa scope base and have a primary arms 4-14x44 scope with moa reticle on the way. My question is, do y'all think this setup with good match grade factory ammo will be sufficient for steel, coyotes, and feral hogs at say 800 yards? Maybe a little further? I've had guys say that I need a heavy barreled rifle with no wood stock and all kinds of things, but it does shoot pretty good for an older hunting gun. Killed several deer with it out to about 250 yards. Is a heavy barrel necessary, or just better for taking multiple shots in rapid succession because it doesn't warp from the heat as much? Should I just buy a different rifle better suited for long range?

 

[Bender]

Yes and no. If you reload, The .30-06 is a very capable LR cartridge although not very popular. With modern powders and bullets a .30-06 can hammer at 1000 yards. It’s often overlooked because it’s a long action cartridge and usually in a LA, the 300 win mag is chosen.



Your limitations will not be the 30-06 cartridge. Unless you don’t reload. Match ammo is not common in 30-06.

The rifle you have could absolutely be capable at 1000yds, but it will take work. The barrel only being one of the issues. The thin barrel is more than likely going to heat up after 3 or 4 shots and start walking shots off your zero. If you are patient and this is your only rifle, if you keep the barrel from being too hot, you could work up some DOPE with the rifle you have.

Your scope would be ok to start with. And you should get a Harris bipod at least with a good rear bag.

That would be how you could do it with what you have.

If you’re serious about LR, save some $$ and start with a good budget LR rifle in 6.5 CM and have a more consistent foundation to start with.

Welcome to the Hide.

 

[Jonzie92]

Thanks man great info I really appreciate it. I'm serious about it. Been wanting to get into it for a while now and live in a great place for it. Mississippi delta farm land, i can see for miles in every direction with a fence row and patch of woods here and there. I work construction and have been saving up for a better LR rifle for a little while now, had my eye on a savage 10 grs 6.5 that I can get by next winter hopefully, but for now my old 06 is the best I got. I was just hoping it was up to snuff. I sure didn't wanna waste a bunch of time and ammo if it wasn't. I have a friend that dabbles a little in handloading, but I personally don't know anything about it. Hopefully I will get into that a little later down the road, too. Thanks for the welcome!! Hope u had a good Christmas and have a great new year

 

[perttime]

... it does shoot pretty good for an older hunting gun....

How good is that?
What kind of groups can you get off a rest at 100 or 300 yards? I don't mean any fancy rest. A sleeping bag or carpet roll can be a good rest.

 

[XLR308]

Welcome and as @Bender said the rifle you have will be capable with quality ammo and of course if your skill level permits.
The bonus of both the rifle and your skill level is they can progress together.
The savage 111 is an easy rifle to upgrade if you decide to go that route, there are many good prefit barrel and stock options to choose from.
The savage rifles aren't popular with those that compete in PRS but they are a solid rifle for casual shooting.
I really like and enjoy the two I have.

 

[domdoc]

Your skinny-barreled .30-'06 will probably do OK for non-competitive use. I have done this many times, and Creighton Audette showed many years ago, that skinny barrels shoot just fine. If the action is properly bedded, they can shoot acceptable groups. Example: 2 MOA is a decent group at any range, for a 20-shot group. It won't win F-class, but that's not the point. My Savage hunting rifle (.308 Win with thin barrel, 22" long) shot the attached group with no delay between shots, maybe 15-20 seconds between each, for position, aiming, firing). These are handloads. Shots 1, 12, and 17 were out of the group, bringing the 20-shot group to 1.74". The other 17 shots were in 0.96".

 

[Jonzie92]

Thanks for the info guys. The best group I shot that I actually measured was 3 shots about 2" at 100 yards but that was with a $20 wallmart scope and cheap 180 grain soft points shooting off my rolled up jacket. I have a better scope in the mail and will be putting it on when it gets here. I'm hoping that the better scope and ammo will improve that 2" group. That's a nice group u shot man. I have thought about giving it a diy bedding job later down the road. There aren't any gunsmiths around my area that do bedding jobs or barrel replacements

 

[domdoc]

Thanks for the info guys. The best group I shot that I actually measured was 3 shots about 2" at 100 yards but that was with a $20 wallmart scope and cheap 180 grain soft points shooting off my rolled up jacket. I have a better scope in the mail and will be putting it on when it gets here. I'm hoping that the better scope and ammo will improve that 2" group. That's a nice group u shot man. I have thought about giving it a diy bedding job later down the road. There aren't any gunsmiths around my area that do bedding jobs or barrel replacements

Send it to a gunsmith and get it done right. You can mail a rifle to the gunsmith for work to be done on it, and there is no FFL required. You have to use UPS, I think. He can mail it back to your house. Buy insurance when you ship.

 

[308pirate]

You have to use UPS, I think.

If you're not sure, then please don't give advice.

It's 100% legal for a non-FFL to ship a rifle for repair/modification using USPS as well as FedEx, UPS, or any other common carrier that will accept firearms.

 

[Jonzie92]

Ok Thanks guys. I would feel much better having a professional do it than risk doing it wrong myself. I didn't know you could ship them without an ffl. Now to save some $ and find a good gunsmith LOL

 

[domdoc]

OP: A previous post of yours said you were in the Mississippi Delta region. Go to the F-class matches in Donaldsonville, LA some time. It's south of Baton Rouge. Those guys are super shooters, and can put you in touch with a gunsmith. Website is paloaltogunclub.com.

 

[Jonzie92]

Well I'm actually quite a ways from baton rouge. I'm in northeastern Ark. That brings up another question though, I have heard of F class matches but I'm not exactly sure what that is? Strict rules about rifles and equipment I'm assuming?

 

[domdoc]

F-Class is two classes - F/Open (any caliber up to .30, and rifles less than 22 lbs) and F/TR (.223 Rem and .308 Win only, and less than 18 lbs, with the bipod attached). You can compete in an F-class match with any safe rifle (one that can hit the target with a stabilized bullet of no greater than .30 caliber) and which does not have a muzzle brake. If you shoot a .30-'06 with a bipod, you will not be eligible for any awards. Who cares? You aren't there to win anything, so you get to just go have fun. I would Google "gunsmiths near me" and "F-class rifle matches in my area." Matches are fired at 300, 600, or 1,000 yards. The distance is announced in the match program. All firing is from the same firing line, so you don't have to carry your gear, and there's no running. Keep in mind the nickname "Belly Benchrest." Matches typically are 3 strings of 20 shots, with sighters at the start of each 20 shots. I have heard of matches in North Little Rock, but you might check over the border if that would be closer. Memphis has had matches, but I do not know any of the specifics or current info on either location.

 

[Jonzie92]

Ok Thanks man I appreciate that. I will definitely check into it in the future when I have a little more LR time under my belt

 

[ShooterwithNoName]

I have ran one of the Primary Arms 4-14x scopes when I first started too and it was a great scope to learn on for not a lot of $$. Like you I shot forever on a $20 used Simmons 2-10x scope. Decent glass is a big help, as you continue to shoot and learn you will get a feel for what scopes work for you and there are decent ones for great prices here on the hide quite often.

When you get your new scope be sure to take your time installing it. Maybe do some research on scope installation and get it into a comfortable position so when your shooting your eye falls right into place without having to contort your head and neck to get a good sight picture. Once that's lined out save up and get yourself several different loadings of decent factory ammo. If you research a bit you can find good 30-06 ammo and figure out what bullet weight your rifle likes to shoot. CMPForum often has some good Match grade 30-06 for sale in the classifieds that the guys over there shoot in their Garands.

Once you get your glass squared away and some decent ammo. Start practicing the fundamentals. Like you I come from a hunting background. I was shocked to learn how many things I was doing wrong when it came to making hits at longer ranges. Study the fundamentals and try dry firing for practice. I dry fire my two long range rigs every day. It makes for good practice on the cheap. It will also show you what's going on with your trigger manipulation.

Get it sighted in and practice, practice, practice. It takes dedication and time, but stick with it and you'll get there. Your Savage will at least give you the ability to get started learning the fundamentals. Once you get them down and get confidence in your form, then look at investing in better gear.

Good luck and welcome to the hide. Lots of good guys and good shooters here, much better than me, that will help you out. Have a Happy New Year.

 

[Jonzie92]

Thanks man I appreciate it. Glad to hear it's a good scope. I've only seen a couple reviews of it but they were good so I went for it. Happy New year to you guys!!

 

[Jonzie92]

I have another question for y'all. I know of jbm ballistics and I reckon that's what I'll use if y'all recommend it. I know I will have to enter a lot of information about atmospherics and velocity on there. I don't own a chronograph or a good weather meter to get that information. Do u think it would work out for me to enter atmospheric info from the weather channel, and muzzle velocity from what the factory box says? Or would that info possibly not be accurate enough and I just need to buy a chronograph and pocket weather meter? If I do, what kind do u guys recommend?

 

[Maxduty]

find someone that shoots near you with those tools and use them. they should be agreeable to letting you use them for a bit, maybe with supervision and help. factory velocities are using set barrel lengths and may vary from your actual velocity. Not sure where in NE AR you, but Coyote Creek has good reviews. A simple bedding job should be easy for them.

 

[Jonzie92]

Ok Thanks man. Yea coyote creek is right down the road from me. I never even knew they were there till u mentioned them and I looked them up. I'll give them a call for sure

 

[perttime]

Yep. A weather website and published velocity can get you in the ballpark. There will most likely be enough differences to what happens in real life, to introduce errors into the calculations. Even different barrels of the same length will give different velocities. It is best to get real measurements, whether you own the equipment, or some kind soul lets you borrow it.